Installing a Mr Heater?

[twostory]

I plan on buying a 45,000 btu Mr Heater/Big Max at Northern Tool soon. I have a few install questions.

1. I will run this from a 100lb propane tank, outside the shop. I plan on running 3/4 black pipe inside the building from the heater to the exterior wall.

2. Once outside the building, I need to connect the black pipe to the tank. I will have a regulator on the tank. Do I use 5/8 copper pipe to make this connection? or maybe flexible hose? (I can buy flexible propane hose at a boat store)

3. I plan on venting horizontally out the side wall. How close can the horizontal vent exit (vent top) be to the soffit? Or should I just extend the vent pipe past the fascia board? (so the rising heat does not contact the soffit/fascia)

4. I plan on buying the Mr Heater horizontal vent kit. Do you just cut a hole in the exterior wall and stick the pipe through it? or do you need to put an extra pipe outside the vent pipe for as a heat shield? I assume the vent kit is a type B double walled pipe?

Thanks for any answers...

 

[Matti]

4. I plan on buying the Mr Heater horizontal vent kit. Do you just cut a hole in the exterior wall and stick the pipe through it? or do you need to put an extra pipe outside the vent pipe for as a heat shield? I assume the vent kit is a type B double walled pipe?

Thanks for any answers...

Codes vary but I bought a thimble which is the part that goes through the wall. It is double walled and comes in two pieces. Yes, you must cut a hole through the wall large enough for the thimble. One part of the thimble goes in from the outside and the other slides in from inside the building. You then screw and seal the flanges to the walls. Your B vent pipe then passes through the thimble.

 

[D KRAGER]

Running the lp line, you should only need to use 1/2" copper or black iron, either one will work, 3/4" would be an overkill (I have a 100,000 btu and it runs off of 1/2" line). The regulator should fit on the tank, then you can run some flex line or copper will work also to make the connection from the regulator to the black iron pipe into the building.

 

[Chetter]

I just finished installing the same heater in my 24x32 garage and turned it on last Friday and it works great. I used 1/2" black pipe for the install which is perfect, put a shutoff valve inside before the heater with a drip leg. I am using 2 40lb bottles for ease of being able to carry and stand up in the back of truck with cap. I bought an automatic regulator that switches from the empty tank to the full one so I can fill the empty one without having to turn off the heater. I set the Honeywell t-stat at 48 degrees to keep things from getting too cold. It's in the mid teens here right now and the heater runs very little to maintain the temp. I went with the vertical vent kit which is only 3" and does a great job. Good luck with your install.

 

[gryphon68]

3. I plan on venting horizontally out the side wall. How close can the horizontal vent exit (vent top) be to the soffit? Or should I just extend the vent pipe past the fascia board? (so the rising heat does not contact the soffit/fascia)

Similar questions here:

I'm assuming its OK for the outer wall of the thimble to touch wood?

The Bigg Maxx Instruction Manual says that for Residential Horizontal venting, the pipe should have 1/4" up angle per foot, rising away from the the heater. I have seen other posts indicating that it should be a a down angle to drain away from the heater? Which is correct?

My 4" vent pipe will likely only have 4" clearance to the soffit above. Any issue with this?