Installing a Standing Seam Metal Roof

[JoeMA]

Garage/house is ready for a new roof. I plan to be here for another 25+ years and don't want to put on another roof after this.

I have been thinking about a standing seam metal roof: 24ga steel, Hylar 5000/Kynar 500 PVDF paint, snap lock panels with striations (14" or 16" wide with 1.5" or 1.75" high seam). Garage/house (83 square total) built in mid-1980s, will tear off shingles and put metal directly on deck (no purlins planned).

I have a several questions but will start off with this:

I got one quote so far, others on the way. Quote came in at ~$150K with no extras/upgrades. I am not paying that much for a roof. I can purchase all materials (panels, clips, hardware/accessories, flashing, boots, underlayments, skylights, snow rails) for ~$35K. I will have most of the summer to work on it and would look forward to doing it. However, I won't have help all the time (some weeks and weekends) and I will have panels up to 40'. I've never installed a metal roof but I am reading up about it. It is a hip and valley roof that is easily accessible (single floor height at eves) but with a lot of detail work required (end walls, side walls, gables, chimney, skylights...).

My main concern is whether I'll be able to get anything done on the days that I don't have extra hands. Appreciate any advice from others who have experience with this.

 

[Toolfool]

Hips and valleys are critically difficult in standing seam. And hauling 40' panels up onto the roof alone can end up in bent and kinked panels. I'd say get more bids, maybe do the tear-off yourself.

 

[readhead]

There is a lot of detail for a standing seam roof. Judging by your elevations that is not going to be a fast or easy install. It would be interesting to know how you came up with your material estimate. I would be willing to bet that you missed some things. When I am doing a list for a customer I don't think in squares. I have to come up with lengths for each piece because of the hips and valleys and make a map of where each piece goes.

There is nothing that says you can't do this but it is not a good starter DIY project. 30 year shingles would look real good on your house.

 

[JoeMA]

Quote is not based on squares. I measured the entire roof, sent them to suppliers who calculated the cut list
including extra panels at longest length) and required accessories.

 

[readhead]

You did it right. Does that include delivery? Do you have a way to unload the crates?

 

[JoeMA]

And the salesman who gave me the $150K quote had no interest looking at the roof (he must have at least got a measurement off eagleview beforehand).

I certainly won't be able to handle the long panels alone without destroying them. The roof is 6/12 with mostly 10' eaves so I can build a ramp to get them up the roof but would still require extra hands (manufacturer says person every 10' of panel).

At my best price, I have a quote from Best Buy Metals (out of TN, I'm in PA) that includes shipping but not unloading which will be a problem (~45-50' crate, 17,000lbs). I have a similar quote to have the panels formed on site. Both use coil from Drexel Metals. I am impressed with Best Buy Metals and like dealing with them but the unloading and storage of the panels will be problematic. Also, it will be easier dealing with local people for damaged panels etc...

 

[JoeMcGov]

Are you seeking an enforceable water tightness warranty from the material manufacturer?

This is NOT a roof system to do alone. Is NOT. A 20' sheet, let alone a 40' sheet, in even a slight breeze will set sail on you. You need help. Sh!t, just the "up-and-down, up-and-down" will kill you.

The one thing a roof must do for you (certainly considering the immense expense involved) is it must keep the water out. And continue to keep the water out throughout it's life. And an experienced/trusted metal roofing technician is priceless in this regard.

Installing a standing seam metal roof on a 6/12 roof with all those hips and valleys is NOT for an amateur . Get a partner. Even then make sure to review all the manufacturers details. To the finest details and written requirements. You only get this one shot to get it right..........the first time.

 

[readhead]

There is about a hundred ways this can go wrong by missing a small detail. It's not like shingles where you can pull up a couple and fix a leak. The sealing details are complicated. With all the hip, valley and roof to wall details you will be working on this for months. For four experienced guys that is probably a 3-4 week job after the tear off and underlayment.

 

[polizei1]

My house has four "aprons" that overhang on the main roof, just the metal seam for those four sections was $3k (installed). I would gather up some more bids, but talking to the guy who did it, it's not something you want to tackle yourself. Those sections alone took the guy and his helper about a week to complete.

 

[Jazzman442]

Get more bids for sure. Mine is 55 square and it is about 20K for metal and 15K for asphalt.

Is that made of Gold in that estimate?

 

[Spook001]

Get more bids for sure. Mine is 55 square and it is about 20K for metal and 15K for asphalt.

Is that made of Gold in that estimate?

There is metal, then there is metal. The matieral he is using is a premium product, 24 gauge, with a high end coating. Yeah, you can go to HD and get some cheap stuff, but it will probably be 29 guage, and the color will fade or chalk off. I’ve done several metal roofs, none that big. And a 6/12 roof will cost more. Walking on a 6/12 roof is pretty scary.

 

[JoeMA]

There is about a hundred ways this can go wrong by missing a small detail. It's not like shingles where you can pull up a couple and fix a leak. The sealing details are complicated. With all the hip, valley and roof to wall details you will be working on this for months. For four experienced guys that is probably a 3-4 week job after the tear off and underlayment.

Thanks Redhead. Not the answer that I was looking for (although expected) but I appreciate the insight of a professional. Yes, I've been looking up the flashing options and other detail and it looks like something that you can not appreciate the amount of time it takes until you do it. I think that the first quote was high (can't you do a slate roof for $2000/sq?) but I don't expect the others others to be far lower.

Also agree with all the things that can go wrong but paying money around here doesn't ensure craftsmanship. I've seen many newly built houses with terrible roofs.

 

[TurnipTruck]

I installed 7000 lbs of standing seam roof on a two story 5/12 roof with six valleys mostly by myself in six weeks. My father helped on weekends cutting and hemming, and that went 3 times faster than alone. I lost twenty pounds and got to know my chiropractor much better. I did save around $21,000.
I even bought an old manlift for that project.
Weather kept me off the roof several days, frost usually kept me off until 10 or 11 am, and sunset around 6pm lowered the dew point far enough to get slippery. I slid a couple times but never went over the edge.
(I don’t recommend roofing in November in Alaska)

 

[JoeMA]

Good to hear Turnip Truck. Where did you get your panels from? Were they formed on site? Any pictures?

I had family in the Fairbanks area. AK is a beautiful state unlike any other.

 

[JoeMcGov]

Consider contacting a high level professional supplier like Metal Building Components Inc. Known in the industry simply as: MBCI. http://www.mbci.com/

 

[JoeMA]

MBCI is on my list to get a quote from. So far Best Buy Metals (who I have been impressed with) is considerably lower than others and they use Drexel Metals coil which is certified to be USA sourced steel. However due to unloading at a residential site I may have to have the panels formed on-site.

 

[readhead]

Some suppliers will have a forklift on the trailer. You can also rent a forklift for the day. You will also need a large lay down area for staging the material.

 

[JoeMA]

They said that I'll need two forklifts and I'm not sure how I'd be able to maneuver that with the tractor trailer on a residential street and driveway. Crate will be at least 45' long and 17k lbs.

I would have to store the panels outside and also concerned about potential moisture and heat (in regards to the protective film) damage leaving them out for months.

The company that would form them on site could come multiple times rather than leaving all panels at once.

Do these mobile roll formers form panels a reliably as those at a manufacturing site? I asked this to my contact at Drexel Metals who referred the on site guy to me and he said that he uses the same machine as they do at the plant.

 

[Toomanytools?]

That is crazy at 150K, metal prices are up but wow. I looked into metal about 12 years ago my roof is similar to yours but a 5/12. Prices at that time metal to a 40-50 year Arch asphalt was like double.
I think the killer is all the detail, the few long panels you have and any soffit work. Not to mention getting a nice straight cut in your valleys, unless that comes precut. Flashing plumbing penetrations on and on. Not saying you can't but you mention no experience.
You might try and find one or two people that have metal roof experience and see if they would help, get you started maybe work with you on the critical stuff. Renting a lift would also help. Good luck.

 

[Bigblockyeti]

The slickest setup I've seen yet was a forklift mounted former with room for an operator. Parked right off the eaves and it shoots the formed panel right up the roof deck to the guys waiting at exactly the length needed. This was in Ohio and I need to contact the guy who built the house and see who he had doing this.

 

[PAToyota]

With the tariffs, metal prices have gone (excuse the pun) through the roof.

I agree, doing a metal roof with multiple valleys, hips, clerestory, sidewalls, and other details is not the way to learn. All of that is also what is affecting your price.

If it was all a simple gable roof, first, the estimate would likely be a lot less and I'd also say there isn't too much you could mess up other than having to handle the length and weight if you did it yourself.

 

[joe_padavano]

I've personally installed Advantage-Lok snap-together standing seam roofing on three projects -a garage, a porch, and a small outbuilding. All were considerably smaller than your house. The concealed fasteners are fantastic and frankly it goes together very quickly. You MUST have help, if only to hand the panels up to you. As noted, wind is your enemy here. Also as noted, the details at ridge, hip, valley, eave, etc are critical. Every single vendor of metal roofing publishes a manual on how to detail these joints and sells accessories for closing them out. READ THE MANUAL, even if you do not plan to do the work yourself. I've found that when I hire someone to install a metal roof, they take shortcuts and specifically do NOT use the manufacturer's closeout details, resulting in leaks. This is why I do it myself now. The oldest of the roofs I installed went on about 15 years ago, and there have been no leaks ever. The biggest challenge is keeping the panels square as you walk across the roof. Plan to spend a lot of time double checking this.

 

[JoeMcGov]

They said that I'll need two forklifts and I'm not sure how I'd be able to maneuver that with the tractor trailer on a residential street and driveway. Crate will be at least 45' long and 17k lbs.

I would have to store the panels outside and also concerned about potential moisture and heat (in regards to the protective film) damage leaving them out for months.

The company that would form them on site could come multiple times rather than leaving all panels at once.

Do these mobile roll formers form panels a reliably as those at a manufacturing site? I asked this to my contact at Drexel Metals who referred the on site guy to me and he said that he uses the same machine as they do at the plant.

I think that this ^^^ along with maybe a few other items can be sorted/answered when you drill down and fully understand the warranty details.

You're making a substantial investment. Make sure you're crystal clear on the warranty aspects of all suppliers. Including "who will be around should I need to effect an actual warranty claim 8 years down the road."

 

[JoeMcGov]

I've personally installed Advantage-Lok snap-together standing seam roofing on three projects -a garage, a porch, and a small outbuilding. All were considerably smaller than your house. The concealed fasteners are fantastic and frankly it goes together very quickly. You MUST have help, if only to hand the panels up to you. As noted, wind is your enemy here. Also as noted, the details at ridge, hip, valley, eave, etc are critical. Every single vendor of metal roofing publishes a manual on how to detail these joints and sells accessories for closing them out. READ THE MANUAL, even if you do not plan to do the work yourself. I've found that when I hire someone to install a metal roof, they take shortcuts and specifically do NOT use the manufacturer's closeout details, resulting in leaks. This is why I do it myself now. The oldest of the roofs I installed went on about 15 years ago, and there have been no leaks ever. The biggest challenge is keeping the panels square as you walk across the roof. Plan to spend a lot of time double checking this.

EVERYTHING in this message ^^^.

When I redid the 3 tab asphalt roof on my home I studied all the products and made the product selection myself. I studied every single detail and the warranty explicitly. I then interviewed roofing contractors noting I had made my product selection and had them include that material in their bid. I further told them I had studied all the details and "here is your hard copy with critical items circled in red." On the day of the installation I was there and met with the supervisor. Had another copy of the details (I know, there aren't many for 3-tab, but nonetheless) and then had him bring the foreman who would oversee the guys come over. Reviewed the details with him. Then.............I sat on the curb with a pair of binoculars and watched it all making sure. YES. I did that. My roof. Only way to be 110% sure that it's correct.

8 years on now. Still absolutely perfect.

 

[readhead]

I don't think they meant one crate at 17K. I think the heaviest crate I have ever unloaded was 6K. They will usually break it up into several crates. Are there actually 40' sheets on your roof?

 

[JoeMA]

Yes Readhead, in the rear (lower right in original picture) it is a straight 40' shot from eve to ridge. The order includes thirty 40' panels (including extra panels at longest length). The rep indicated that everything would be one continuous crate like the attached picture.

 

[readhead]

Ask them to break it down into multiple crates. At 17K I would bring one of my cranes but that is not realistic for you. That would take two 10K forklifts and all you could do is drop it straight down after the truck pulls out. One crate with the 40' sheets could be moved with one forklift and a spreader bar.

 

[readhead]

For the sake of handling and safety you could do a mid seam if you don't mind the appearance.

 

[JoeMA]

You might try and find one or two people that have metal roof experience and see if they would help, get you started maybe work with you on the critical stuff. Renting a lift would also help. Good luck.

I agree and would pay a consulting fee to help me get started. Just don't think that I will find a local professional willing to do that.

I've personally installed Advantage-Lok snap-together standing seam roofing on three projects -a garage, a porch, and a small outbuilding...You MUST have help...

Good to hear that your projects worked out well. I know that I'll need help handling the panels at the least. Maybe I'll see if I can hire someone to help when I don't have family/friends around.

Every single vendor of metal roofing publishes a manual on how to detail these joints and sells accessories for closing them out. READ THE MANUAL, even if you do not plan to do the work yourself.

Yes, I've been reading the manuals from several manufacturers and the Metal Construction Agency's metal roof installation manual.

Ask them to break it down into multiple crates. At 17K I would bring one of my cranes but that is not realistic for you. That would take two 10K forklifts and all you could do is drop it straight down after the truck pulls out. One crate with the 40' sheets could be moved with one forklift and a spreader bar.

Thanks, I'll ask them about breaking it down to multiple crates and see how much it increases the crating and delivery fees.

 

[JoeMA]

For the sake of handling and safety you could do a mid seam if you don't mind the appearance.

Appreciate the suggestion but that seam would bother me.

 

[Showkey]

How about a 50 year asphalt shingle ?

 

[JoeMA]

Showkey, is there an asphalt shingle that will last 50 years?

I have a couple quotes from GAF master elite installers and their 50 year golden pledge warranty. Came in $40K-$50K for basic underlayments and GAF Timberline HD shingles (one tried to upsell other underlayments until I asked why would I pay more if the warranty period is 50 years regardless). I don't believe these shingles will last 50 years and I don't believe that they would warranty the roof when it fails before 50 years.

Besides the longevity of concealed fastener standing seam metal, I also like the efficiency gains and appearance vs asphalt.

 

[Dzlpete]

True Metal standing seam around here runs $650-850 a square generally based on difficulty.
True Standing seam copper can be had for about $1000-1400 a square.
Slate is $1000 a square with copper details- drip edge, valleys, ridges.
That number you got is an “I don’t want the job” price.
Snap lock is not what I consider to be a premium product, and should go for much,much less. It works, but there is no seaming labor , thus big savings.

One thing to keep in mind, a single 40’ piece is going to “grow and shrink” a ton with the changing of temperature. Your fastenings and drip edges need to accomodate that.

 

[kaymccampbell]

With standing seam steel roof, your labor price should about equal your wholesale materials price, Delivered, from the factory. Those guys didn't want the job. Find a plant nearby you. Get your stuff from them. They'll deliver and unload the crates. If you don't want to do the install yourself, get a recommendation for a local installer from your local plant.
If you can get your roofing with the urethane gasketing, do it. It makes the crimp seal much better.
Hand crimping a roof is a big deal. The most I've ever done is 20 square, and it was a killer. Do you plan on renting the electric crimper?

 

[JoeMA]

Pete and Kay- you are both in the same ballpark on price. If you know someone that will do a mechanically seamed 24ga standing seam with pvdf paint in Philly area for that price, please send them my way.

Pete- what do you consider to be a true metal standing seam? It has to be mechanically seamed? From reading the Metal Roofing Alliance ask the experts section, they state that there is no real advantage of mechanically seamed.

Kay-if I do it myself, I'll use snap lock.

 

[Slowgsr]

A lot of double lock mechanical is 26ga, 24ga is too hard to work to double lock in detail areas

This is a double locked dormer/ridge. 24ga wouldn't be doable as the folds get too thick with all the layers.

Also a chimney and cap built from scratch. Actually all the parts were from scratch on site except for the 16"x1.5 panels (roof) and 12"x1 panels (fascia/sofit) and the half round gutters. The panels were rolled on site.

The roof uses floating clips

 

[yeldogt]

True Metal standing seam around here runs $650-850 a square generally based on difficulty.
True Standing seam copper can be had for about $1000-1400 a square.
Slate is $1000 a square with copper details- drip edge, valleys, ridges.
That number you got is an “I don’t want the job” price.
Snap lock is not what I consider to be a premium product, and should go for much,much less. It works, but there is no seaming labor , thus big savings.

One thing to keep in mind, a single 40’ piece is going to “grow and shrink” a ton with the changing of temperature. Your fastenings and drip edges need to accomodate that.

Those numbers would be impossible around me .... quality slate is over $1000 per square jsut for the material. More for the best.

 

[Samh]

Man, and I thought the $15,000 quote for my 32x60 with a 10/12 pitch, a shed dormer and 4 gable dormers was expensive.

 

[JoeMA]

Beautiful work Slowgsr! I saw your pictures on another thread and was hoping that you would comment here. I believe that you didn't have much experience with standing seam metal but had a friend who did helping you out. A roof like yours can transform any house into something special.

So that is 26ga mechanically double locked? Where did you get your coil from? Do you think that forming the panels on-site as you go adds much time versus having precut panels delivered? Did you have to rent the roll former? How long did the roof take?

 

[yeldogt]

Just had a very simple slate roof (two flat planes w/ scallop detail) ...about 28 +/- square installed w/ two long internal copper gutters. $100k

The much smaller addition (maybe 7 square (forget)) -- was done with IMETCO United Zinc ... matching Zinc gutters and more detail 33k. I could have done it with cedar for 17k + the gutters. Mine is true double lock SS (made on site) .... believe the longest panel was a bit over 20'. It required precise layout ... many many days with 5-6 people.

Roofing consultant/ architect was another 11k. Both the slate and medal (Zinc) used were at the top of the cost scale -- but, with the labor costs using the best is the only way to go.

A true standing seam roof can't be compared with any type of manufactured roof panel. There are just too many types available -- some are really only utility building roofs ... the wide use in commercial buildings over the past 20 years has really expanded the offerings. With the panel systems .. layout is just as important as you can't change the panel width. With onsite you can -- it's all layout so everything matches.

Two shots -- The triangle is the stove vent (about 4k) ... the other side of the small building has a bump out and two vents for plumbing and boiler -- so that side has a bit more detail. The shiny blocks on the lower part of the SS roof are for the snow bar -- even that was about 2k just for the materials.

My property is in an area where this type of work is appreciated -- The building is also from 1873 and originally had a slate roof. But -- one does not get this back on resale ... I just like it.

FYI -- You need to get a few quotes. Mine were all over the place ... I eventually went back and hired a roof specialist (yes there is such a thing) that I had previously used. He was nice enough to do a scaled down version of his typical job consultation -- provided a full specification booklet and layout. He directed me to a contractor who he liked and was a known quality operator. There was no question of how, what or quality. Minimal onsite time for the consultant -- Beginning/Middle with phone and pictures while ongoing. All knew that he needed to sign off at end. Even with his 11k cost, my final cost was on the lower end of all the estimates.

Honestly -- Slate is easier vs a really high quality metal roof.