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Installing an Automatic Garage Door Opener

NJGTFX4

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May 2, 2013
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9
Hey All,

I have a newer garage door, but no automatic garage door opener. I have an outlet up top for the power. Is it hard to install yourself? I have never installed, or assisted with the installation of an automatic garage door opener. If I were to buy one from say Home Depot, does it include everything thats needed? I'm not a newbie when it comes to construction/around the house fixes....just curious to see if this is worth me attempting to do.

Any and all help is appreciated!
 
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Gary S

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Dec 27, 2008
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Bismarck, ND
They are easy to install. There are simple directions in the box with the opener. You will also need support metal or whatever material you choose to hang the opener from the ceiling.
 
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NJGTFX4

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May 2, 2013
Messages
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Thanks! I heard horror stories about the alignment of the door and whatnot. Is there a "better option" to what I hang the opener from the ceiling with?

Thanks again
 

Gary S

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Bismarck, ND
I bought galvanized angle iron to make my hangers to support the opener. Any strong metal will do the job.
 

rmsg0040

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Feb 15, 2012
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Location
Toronto
There will be a few other items needed, just got to go through the owner's manual and figure what you need. Most things are provided.

I just installed 2 garage door openers at home for the first time by myself a few months ago. Once you do 1, the other is much quicker. I also had to wire 2 outlets by myself.
 

upndown

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Dec 5, 2010
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Desert Hills/Peeples Valley AZ.
Any pre-punched angle will work to hang from the ceiling, doesn't need to be heavy duty! Check your door balance, should be easy to open or close manually, This will save you time and money down the road! Good luck:beer:
 

softailgarage

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Apr 20, 2011
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Bullhead City, Az.
As long as the garage is empty and you've got another person to help, it should be a breeze. I'm currently replacing the one thats been up since '87....with a full garage and it's a pain in the ***. Got the box up, which isn't easy by yourself, and tonight I'm going to have to clear a second workbench that runs the length of the garage so I can get the track up and run the sensor wires. Otherwise, no problem.

IMG_2368.jpg
 

ford33

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Feb 26, 2011
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Chicago, IL. USA
If your bedroom is above the garage and you would like to suppress the noise transmitted into the bedroom when the garage door opens or closes, use rubber material where the opener attaches to the ceiling and front support beam. I used a sturdy rubber floor mat cut into strips. I cut each opener hanger straps in half and bolted a rubber strip to each end and then re-attched to the the opener after cutting the metal strap back to the correct length. I used a piece of the rubber mat between the front door beam and the opener trolley. This isolated the opener vibrations from the wall and ceiling and considerably reduced the noise in the bedroom.
 

upndown

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Desert Hills/Peeples Valley AZ.
Hey softail, before you go any further do yourself a favor and pull that motorhead off the ceiling!! It's alot easier to to attach the rail and chain on the ground than hanging in the air!! Looks like your front mount is already there, open your door all the way and slide the whole unit on top of door..Makes it alot easier..:thumbup:

Sorry NJGTF, No hijack intended!
 
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NJGTFX4

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May 2, 2013
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Thanks all, I'm going to paint first, then install the opener. Garage is currently empty....I want to get this done before I bring my Mustang home. This may be a stupid question, but do the directions advise you how far away you have to mount the opener? Thanks again for all the great tips!
 

JakeKohl

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Feb 23, 2012
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Greenville, SC
Thanks all, I'm going to paint first, then install the opener. Garage is currently empty....I want to get this done before I bring my Mustang home. This may be a stupid question, but do the directions advise you how far away you have to mount the opener? Thanks again for all the great tips!

They do. Normally you will attach the extension rod to the wall/door with the opener on the ground (or saw horse, etc.). You swing the opener up to the ceiling and finish off the mounting there knowing that your distances are now correct. The rod between the opener and the wall carries all the opening/closing compression loads so all your ceiling hanger needs to do is just hold the opener up to the ceiling.
 
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upndown

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Desert Hills/Peeples Valley AZ.
Working alone, I always install the operator mounting bracket to the wall first(per instructions) Then open your door fully, slide the opener on the door till it hits the front. slide in the front pin, then go to the motor end lift it up and slide a 2x4 on its side under the rail. Measure to the ceiling and that's your drop!
 

pmiranda

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Jul 15, 2008
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Austin, TX
The openers I've bought came with everything you needed (including pre-punched angle "iron") except the 2x4 you need at the wall to mount the opener bracket to. If you're lucky the builder already put one there, but at my previous house there was just drywall with no stud at the center point of the door, and at this house just a cheesy 1x4. Honestly it doesn't carry much load but anything worth doing is worth overdoing :)

It helps to have two ladders: one to stand on and another to support the motor when you're getting it attached to the ceiling.

Also... measure your door height. You might need an extension kit for the opener track and it's a pain to make an extra trip just for that, especially if they don't have it in stock.

Finally, if your builder already installed low-voltage wire (they usually use leftover CAT5 from the telephone wiring) in the walls for the wall button and sensors, don't be surprised if one of the pairs is shorted because some idiot drove a drywall screw through it. Have a continuity tester on hand to check for shorts unless you're putting in the wiring yourself.

And I'll say avoid Genie. They're even more cheaply made now than 10 years ago, and I got almost no range on the remotes. I ended up adding on a Chamberlain radio receiver that actually worked well with my cars.
 

antinym

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Jan 19, 2010
Messages
298
I just installed a Genie the other day. Like the other say, you'll need punched angle metal and some lag bolts to mount it to the ceiling. You may also need two bolts to mount the opener to the angle metal. Block house? You'll need a masonry bit and some concrete anchors.

Drill bits, screw drivers, ratchet. wirecutters.
Fish tape if you're fishing the wire through the ceiling, or at least access to the attic.
That should be about it.
 

911Dave

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Apr 23, 2013
Messages
11
I installed a Genie 11 years ago and it still works good as new. The remotes work from about 150 feet away. YMMV.
 
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NJGTFX4

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May 2, 2013
Messages
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Thank you everyone - all this input is GREATLY appreciated. I have been browsing this forum for some time, this is priceless information that I couldn't get anywhere else. I'm located in Bergen County NJ. I will post pics up when I do this install.
 

Sunstealer73

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Jun 7, 2011
Messages
107
I finally got around to putting up the openers in my new shop. I bought the $128 Chamberlain 1/2hp model from Home Depot for the standard door. I have the same two in my attached garage that are 7 years old now and still working great. It went up pretty easily. The only part it did not include was the piece of angle that goes across the ceiling. I used a Liftmaster 3800 on the high-lift door. That one was really easy. I wish I could have used them on both sides.

I have to charge my digital camera, but will be posting some pics hopefully later today.
 
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