Installing batten molding: 18g or 23g?

[ThatSickRip]

So, my SO had a GC not complete a kitchen she designed, so I got "recruited" to install just 1 piece of batten molding on the end of the kitchen cabinets. Will 23g pin nails suffice or will I need to use 18g brads? The batten is 1/4" so I was going to use 1 3/8" 23g that I have unless you guys say otherwise?

 

[Hammer1963]

The 23 should work. I do however add a dab or two of adhesive as well. Just a bit of security

 

[ThatSickRip]

I was thinking of using Titebond Quick & Thick. That a good choice given it doesnt run?
Any suggestions on the spacing of the glue dabs; ie: each end and middle, every 1/3. etc

 

[rlitman]

The 23 should work. I do however add a dab or two of adhesive as well. Just a bit of security

Totally this. Stick to the 23 gauge headless pins for finished surfaces, and reinforce with a little glue (or color matched or clear caulk). The pins hold well in shear, but the adhesive helps a lot.

 

[rlitman]

I was thinking of using Titebond Quick & Thick. That a good choice given it doesnt run?
Any suggestions on the spacing of the glue dabs; ie: each end and middle, every 1/3. etc

I can't say I've used it, but yes, a glue that doesn't run and is easy cleanup is a good choice.

Dry fit the piece and see how flat it sits. That'll give you an idea of what needs "sticking".

 

[ThatSickRip]

I can't say I've used it, but yes, a glue that doesn't run and is easy cleanup is a good choice.

Dry fit the piece and see how flat it sits. That'll give you an idea of what needs "sticking".

Thanks!

So any place that is not flat, place the glue? Or should that be glue and pin in those areas?

 

[rlitman]

Thanks!

So any place that is not flat, place the glue? Or should that be glue and pin in those areas?

Well, the glue will not hold a spot flat until it dries. Pins should.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Well, the glue will not hold a spot flat until it dries. Pins should.

Copy that! Sorry, shouldve thought before replying. I just want to be thorough so the SO doesnt try bitching at me like a GC lol

 

[The Cobbler]

pins hold amazingly well. if it's not in a "touch" area,like at the ceiling, I would just use the pins.

 

[ThatSickRip]

Ok, so I came up with one more question. Ive tested the pin nailer on some scrap batten molding and plywood, and the pins sink and hold well. My question for the install on the cabinets is do I do it like in the first photo, and use a 5/8" or so pin; or do I do it like in the second photo, and go diagonal with a longer pin, say 1"? Sorry for the noob questions, but Im new to this type of work, and since its a customer of my SO, I want to make sure Im doing it all correctly

 

[rlitman]

I like to pin like I've been taught to nail. Alternate diagonals, so the piece cannot be pulled off in any one direction. However, I don't like either of those drawings.

1) place the pins on the least visible spot. i.e. pin the molding into the cabinet, not the other way around, so don't go shooting pins right into your face frame
2) aim your pins so they do not exit out the back-side.
3) plan for pins to bend. They can deflect around anything inside the wood, so leave a lot more room to avoid a pin blowing out in a finished spot than you think
4) a corollary to the above is that I always pin the thinner piece onto the thicker one. It leaves you more breathing room behind the pin.

As for length, 5/8" should be ok to hold 1/4" thick molding. I'd probably use 3/4" pins. 1" pins start getting risky (see 3 above).