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Installing brush seals through a steel header plate: How-to?

NobleHops

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
4
Location
Tucson. Arizona, USA
Greetings from a major lurker.

I have a project looming over my head - sealing 9 pretty tall roll-up doors on a commercial building in Tucson, Arizona. After some initial research I settled on brush seals as the best solution, found a good-looking supplier of those, and I am waiting for less than brutal weather to start installing them - we are having a scorcher of a summer this year (plus I am just dreading this and procrastinating).

The sides seem straightforward, I was thinking I’d use Tapcons or similar into the cinder block, predrilling with a hammer drill. I was planning on predrilling all the brush seals on the drill press ahead of time for ease and convenience when it’s time to affix them to the wall.

The challenge is the seal at the top of the door, where the gap is biggest and most in need of sealing. There’s a 1/4” steel header spanning the width of the door that I need to mount to or through, and its a good 12 feet off the level of the floor. The thought of drilling into that header 75 or so times, working overhead at the top of a ladder has me looking for the best way to do it. My current thought is to buy an inexpensive magnetic drill, possibly one of the Vevor models I find on their site, even if I need to support it somewhat working inverted. Thinking, mark and predrill the seal flange, Use magnets or even tape to hold the seal in position, and mark the holes to be drilled through the flange. Remove the flange, drill the holes through the steel for the fasteners. Phe the seals back into position and drive the tapcons through the pre drilled holes and the header and into the block above. So I have tons of questions:

Does this sound like a good approach? Totally open to other ideas, including that I am overthinking this.

Is a mag drill a good idea for drilling this many holes efficiently and accurately, overhead?

Will the magnet hold it in place while inverted, mostly?

Should I be thinking about just fastening TO the steel, instead of through it? If so, with what? Sheet metal screws?

This may be the only time I use the drill, so will I get away with an inexpensive Vevor? How bodacious of a model should I be targeting? They offer a boatload of models. This seems to fit the bill, but I am open to a better idea: https://www.vevor.com/magnetic-dril...ortable-mag-drill-press-810rpm-p_010469059052

TIA for your wisdom and experience.
 
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loganb

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Dec 29, 2011
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Omaha, NE
Can you just use a short length self tapping hex head into the lintel at the head? I personally don't want to reposition a mag drill overhead for that...even if you drill an 1/8" or 3/16" pilot hole with a short/jobber length drill bit with a hand drill to make driving the self tapper easier I suspect that will be easier then the mag drill
 

NightSky

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Jun 29, 2024
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542
Location
Southwest OH
Could you fasten something else to the header, say 1" by 2" strip of wood, and fasten the seal to that? I'm imagining that fewer fasteners would be required to securely attach the wood to the steel. Then use as many fasteners as required to attach the seal to the wood.
 
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NobleHops

New member
Joined
Sep 27, 2015
Messages
4
Location
Tucson. Arizona, USA
Can you just use a short length self tapping hex head into the lintel at the head? I personally don't want to reposition a mag drill overhead for that...even if you drill an 1/8" or 3/16" pilot hole with a short/jobber length drill bit with a hand drill to make driving the self tapper easier I suspect that will be easier then the mag drill

I’m gonna try this, I think this is a solid idea. Get some good sharp drill bits for pilot holes and hexhead self-tappers I can drive with my little impact.
 
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NobleHops

New member
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Sep 27, 2015
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Location
Tucson. Arizona, USA
Could you fasten something else to the header, say 1" by 2" strip of wood, and fasten the seal to that? I'm imagining that fewer fasteners would be required to securely attach the wood to the steel. Then use as many fasteners as required to attach the seal to the wood.

This could definitely work, might be easier as you say. I’m gonna start with Logan’s idea, see how easy it is or isn’t to just fasten the seals directly to the steel with self-tappers and forego the mag drill for starters.
 
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Fav Onefour

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Jul 14, 2022
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708
Location
MN cold and hot
Self tappers into 1/4" beam? I've had terrible luck trying that trick.

I like the method @NightSky , suggests.
Is the header exposed bare on all three sides? I usually see them covered with fascia on the exterior. If the front face is already covered, you could use that as a partial attachment point and put a trim board on the bottom side. You might get by with less fasteners into the steel beam.

I like this route is because I'm always thinking about the next time I need to repair or replace the seals.
 

rancherbill

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Oct 18, 2007
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Foothills County, Alberta, Canada

welder4956

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Apr 8, 2010
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Birmingham, AL USA
For a 12 ft high door, I would want a rolling scaffold. And since welding is my life, I would probably predrill a length of 1/2" x 1" steel channel to match the brush seal, then tack weld the channel to the 1/4" thick header every 6" or so, then screw the brush seal to the channel with self tapping hex head screws. Working with a mag base drill overhead is a pain to me. But, choose a method that works well for you and give it a try on one door to see how well you like it.
 

Dodgeboy2020

Active member
Joined
Dec 10, 2020
Messages
44
Location
WI
I'm going to suggest a different approach, look into the 3M brand VHB tape, it is used in what I would consider 'structural' applications on buildings all the time. I would think since we are talking about some brush strips the weight would not be a concern in the slightest. Obviously clean surfaces and following the instructions would be appropriate. Do the research for yourself obviously but I've seen demonstrations of this product and what it can do is pretty phenomenal. Just might be a lot easier than trying to connect to the steel overhead as you suggested.
 
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