Installing Exterior Door

[pharper]

I just bought a new house and I am in the process of building out the workshop in the attached garage. I've pulled the drywall in anticipation of installing electrical and insulation. I also want to put in an exterior door. Now I have a few questions.

I want to place the door close to the corner near the garage door. The door is 36 inches wide, so I was thinking of using the forth stud from the left (as shown in picture) as my king stud. Is there any reason why this might be a bad idea?

I'm thinking a left-hand inswing door would be my best option. Any reason to use another option?

 

[pharper]

Not sure why the image flipping. Looks right on computer and phone.

 

[gregtwojeeps]

As long as the 6'8" tall exterior door will clear that garage door overhead door track in front of it .

 

[nadogail]

I might be missing something, but IMHO it looks good to me.

 

[Slednut]

What's the length and width of your garage? If you plan on parking a couple cars in it the door may hit your vehicle. Your lucky you don't have a stem wall to cut.

 

[dfiler2]

You might want to check for anchor bolts holding the wall, but as long as the door clears the rail you should be fine.

 

[pharper]

What's the length and width of your garage? If you plan on parking a couple cars in it the door may hit your vehicle. Your lucky you don't have a stem wall to cut.

No cars, but it's 19x19.

 

[pharper]

Thanks everyone! What about the swing? I'm thinking a left-hand inswing door would be best, so the door doesn't swing into the garage door.

 

[readhead]

I would use a right hand door so you don't have to walk around it to get in the garage.

 

[csp]

Which direction will you be traveling after entering this door? That's what dictates which way it should swing.

It seems to me that it will be far enough away from the garage door so that it doesn't hit it when open. I'm also assuming that the fourth stud is the king stud that's closest to the garage door.

 

[pharper]

Which direction will you be traveling after entering this door? That's what dictates which way it should swing.

It seems to me that it will be far enough away from the garage door so that it doesn't hit it when open. I'm also assuming that the fourth stud is the king stud that's closest to the garage door.

The fourth stud will be the right king stud. The door will be to the left of the fourth stud.

 

[OccupantRJ]

Think about using an outward swinging door. Inswing door frames tend to rot out in the lower corners unless protected by a storm door.

 

[csp]

Be careful getting the door too close to the corner. Building code dictates minimum spacing from corners depending on what type of bracing you have and what the wind speed loads are in the area.

 

[pharper]

Think about using an outward swinging door. Inswing door frames tend to rot out in the lower corners unless protected by a storm door.

Outswing doors all seem to be about 4 x the price.

 

[pharper]

Be careful getting the door too close to the corner. Building code dictates minimum spacing from corners depending on what type of bracing you have and what the wind speed loads are in the area.

Currently, the door would be about 20 inches from the inside corner.

 

[LB-1911]

Currently, the door would be about 20 inches from the inside corner.

That osb is your shear wall.

 

[pharper]

That osb is your shear wall.

Oh, I see. The black stuff is non structural then. Maybe I should just add the door in the middle, or just to the right of the OSB.

 

[matt_i]

Don't forget you need jack studs and a header to frame the rough opening (check door manufacturing data for this R.O. dimension).

I personally like to double the king stud both sides because it gives the frame more "solidity" and doesn't have a chintzy lightweight feel when you slam it shut.

While you are building, if you can integrate a piece of angle iron to reinforce behind the striker plate area you will be building a much more break-in proof door. Even a steel flat bar a couple feet long each side, deck screwed in multiple locations will be excellent. The downside is that you should not choose this door to self-hack if you lose your keys. Will have to call the locksmith

 

[Big Bad Dad]

You did not tell us which walls are load bearing. The overhead situation with the second story, if applicable, or which side the roof rafters or trusses bear on make a big difference!

 

[pharper]

You did not tell us which walls are load bearing. The overhead situation with the second story, if applicable, or which side the roof rafters or trusses bear on make a big difference!

They are load bearing, but only for the roof/attic. There are no rooms above.

 

[pharper]

So, I've decided to move my door from the corner near the garage door where the shear wall exists. I will move the door, right towards the house. I will leave just enough room in the corner for a cyclone dust collector.

The plan is as follows:

1) build temporary support wall.
2) frame doorway
3) check fit on interior
4) using the frame as a guide, cut through siding from inside
5) check fit of door from outside
6) cut siding back to fit brick mold of door
7) shim/install door

All of the instructions I've read include using caulk on door frame and brick mold. They also include installing some sort of trim above the door to prevent water intrusion.

Should I install adhesive wrap behind the siding and around the frame? If so, what's the best type to us?

Is there anything special I should do, considering the door will be installed on the concrete garage floor?

Anything else I should be aware of?