Installing garage doors before sheathing?

[The One]

My garage door installers gave me a call today to confirm my (non-previously scheduled) install date of tomorrow. Unfortunately due to a mis-order I do not yet have the metal fascia installed behind where the weather stripping and brackets go on the top and sides. The ceiling is 100% completed.

1) How difficult will it be for me to unscrew the brackets on one side of the wall at a time and slip the smooth fascia behind?
2) I assume if I reuse their screw holes for the lags I don't need to worry about alignment at all?
3) Will I need to do anything with the spring if I unbolt only one side of the top at a time?

I understand I'm going about this backwards, but if I can't do it tomorrow they're going to push me to the back of their list... 3 weeks from now. And with snow coming I need to make sure I am able to get trucks down my drive to move my workshop back.

 

[Radix2]

You are using a lot of words that have different meanings than what you are probably talking about....sheathing? Fascia?

Are you wanting to move the inside tracks so you can install inside metal covering? (The tracks install on the inside face of the wall/door opening.

Or are you talking about the actual sides of the door opening where you want to install meta trim around the opening ? This is where the actual door seals are nailed to the frame.


If number 1, sure, anything is possible, but how thick is your metal?, is it corrugated?, doesn't need to go under brackets, use some trim coil to finish now, then complete later without needing to go under.

Number 2- just leave off the door seals until your trim metal is finished.

Sheathing- wall or roof covering sheet stock on the outside of framing
Fascia - exterior trim on face of surfaces - typically edges of roof for example.

 

[matt_i]

I'd wait. Close up the door opening with temporary framing lumber and plywood/osb.

Imo very bad idea to unbolt either side of the driveshaft (spring shaft) with the spring still tensioned, as the cable has tension on it between the bottom lug on the side of the door and the cable drum. Unbolting one side would cause the driveshaft to bend downward, likely to the point where its plastically bent and will forevermore have a "wow" in it.

You can always carefully count the number of turns as you de-tension the spring (then work), and duplicate that going back to tension. Best imo is to source some 1/2" diameter W-1 drill rod to manipulate the spring-cone. Its made to a precision diameter and is roughly 25% stronger than your garden variety cold rolled steel rod. It comes in 3ft lengths, you can make 1 cut and have two- 18" pieces.

 

[The One]

I can't believe it, but my order is ready for pick up today! I can't make it before closing time today, but I'm going to be waiting at the door tomorrow morning.

The area effected is being covered by L fascia to wrap around the door frame. No ribs in that area.

Hopefully somebody else can find this thread helpful in the future. Thanks guys!