Installing Maxline Rapid-Air Air Lines

[Jayhawk_Aviator]

I bought the 3/4" air line kit and debating about how best to install it. My original plan was behind the drywall (so as to not see it), but now I'm second guessing. Anyone install it behind the wall have any issues? Do you have to run it so that there is a "drop" at each station you want an outlet? Any reason you can't run in it the ceiling )above the trusses)? I'm effectively trying to get 3 outlets...two corners and one ceiling spot between the two.

Any other tips on installing, getting the pipe straight, etc?

Thanks,
Scott

 

[Crusarius]

I think you can tap into those lines at any point right? If you can I would keep it easily accessible just in case you decide you need a drop where there isn't one when you install it.

It sux to have to pull the sheathing to add a new drop.

If you mount it to the rafters or up high it gives you plenty of low spots at the drop for drains. all of my piping has a the quick disconnect for the airline and then about 14" of pipe with a ball valve under it. gives plenty of room for water before I have to drain it. Don't forget to slope the lines.

 

[k-os]

I installed this in my garage externally (using the clips on the wall) and would recommend you attach as many of the air lines that you can when it's off the wall (and tighten the fittings). It's hard to get a good hole on the fittings when/if you're using a 90 degree corner connector.

Picture of one of the sides.

 

[Radix2]

I just installed 150' in my garage. Planning to have it behind the metal/drywall. Will pressure test before covering up. If run behind the wall, you transition to black pipe elbows/******* to bring the air into the back of the wall fixtures. You absolutely have to unroll it against the ground to straighten it, but it is still not going to be particularly straight by the time you get it up. I would use one of the straight tube versions for exposed, depends on your taste though.

I was able to bend and come down into the wall from the attic without much difficulty (1 1/4 hole) to avoid elbows in a couple of drops. I will end up with 3 fittings hidden - 2 T's and 1 elbow for 3 drops.

If I ever need more drops, they will come from the current and be surface mounted. Since I have one on each wall and access to the manifold at the compressor, I really doubt that will ever happen...more likely I will never plug into on some them....

 

[-Brent-]

I bought a kit to be able to run it in the ceiling. I've found it easy to work with. I haven't tested the system for leaks yet as there are a couple areas still needing to be finished. In all I will only have 5 joints that won't be easily accessible. I'm not concerned, either. They're good quality fittings and once the system is leak free and holding pressure, it should be good to go. It's not complicated stuff.

 

[Jeff Ivers]

I just installed 150' in my garage. Planning to have it behind the metal/drywall. Will pressure test before covering up. If run behind the wall, you transition to black pipe elbows/******* to bring the air into the back of the wall fixtures. You absolutely have to unroll it against the ground to straighten it, but it is still not going to be particularly straight by the time you get it up. I would use one of the straight tube versions for exposed, depends on your taste though.

I was able to bend and come down into the wall from the attic without much difficulty (1 1/4 hole) to avoid elbows in a couple of drops. I will end up with 3 fittings hidden - 2 T's and 1 elbow for 3 drops.

If I ever need more drops, they will come from the current and be surface mounted. Since I have one on each wall and access to the manifold at the compressor, I really doubt that will ever happen...more likely I will never plug into on some them....

If you check out my DIY Shop thread (see below) you can see my experience with installing it exposed in my shop and how it looks. My personal experience with my shop over the years is that you can never anticipate what your future needs are. Much easier to cut surface mount pipe to add a new run or drop. Also, if installed in an exterior wall, I think your chances of freezing problems will go up.

 

[8man]

I installed in the attic, with drops where I wanted it. Was easy to install that way, only issue was getting close to the outside edge where the roof line kept me from getting as close to the wall as I wanted. Easy to check for leaks that way and only a small amount of the Blue line from the ceiling down on the wall.

 

[04chase]

there is a tool you can make for the maxline for getting it almost perfectly straight . I have a hybrid system in my shop . 1" loop of fast pipe (the rigid type but same company) and 3/4 maxline from a drop in the loop to supply my detached shed for my plasma table. i did a drop off the fastpipe to my bendpak 4 post as well since it needed air supply to release the locks and added a outlet station on one of the post while doing this.

The drop stations have built in moisture catchs/drains , you can also supply them from the back side if you decide to completely hide all lines.

 

[bedn0009]

I did the 3/4" maxline in wall. Works great. Pm me with questions

 

[macdabs]

I ran my outside the walls down my beams since my building is steel . You can straighten the 3/4" with 1" EMT conduit. On my beams I left a 10' stick of the EMT over the 3/4" Rapid line for protection and it looks nice ant straight on your drops. You just use 1" EMT single hole clamps on the conduit to fasten it to the wall or beam. Now the Rapid air line will be straight and be protected.

Mac