Installing my 2 post lift

[Special55]

First the good news:
I just scored an ALI certified 9000lbs. lift from a guy closing his business and moving out of state. The thing is 4 years old and looks like it has had a car on it about 10 times. I gave $1,200 for it and feel it was worth much more.


Then the bad news:
The installation instructions blow. It gives basic dimensions but makes no reference to relief cuts or type of anchor bolts. For the bolts it just says "using the supplied anchors" which doesn't do me allot of good.


And now the questions:
How far from the relief cuts do the columns have to be? What are you guys finding is a comfortable working distance from walls? What type of anchors did you use? I read another thread that recommended epoxy be used. Do you still use the wedge anchors along with the epoxy?

And I know ---- I ****

Rich

 

[cloper91]

Who made the lift. If it is a Rotary I can help you. I work at Rotary lift and do this for a living. I can probably help anyway but I can get you the full installation instructions if you want if you don't have them already.

 

[Bisqwik]

I used wedge anchors on mine. I don't know the size off the top of my head. 5/8 or 3/4? My cement is 6" thick with .5" r-bar and fiber in the cement. I bolted one side down then positioned the 2nd in place and drilled. It was not hard to install.
John

 

[ponjohn]

Curious how you stand the 2 post lifts up?

John

 

[Special55]

Sorry, should have mentioned it is a Challenger 39000.

John,
You may want to do a search on "lift" there are multiple threads. When we took this lift down we just tipped it over and walked it down slowly. I would recommend at least 3 better yet 4 guys to stand them up. I'm planning a lift raising party myself.

 

[Bisqwik]

I would do it one of three ways the 1st is the way I did mine I have a bridge crane in the shop. The 2nd my tractor with the Front end loader. 3rd 3 to 4 guys like was said.
John

 

[ponjohn]

Sorry, should have mentioned it is a Challenger 39000.

John,
You may want to do a search on "lift" there are multiple threads. When we took this lift down we just tipped it over and walked it down slowly. I would recommend at least 3 better yet 4 guys to stand them up. I'm planning a lift raising party myself.

I'm avaialble if you're serving pizza

 

[red vette mike]

First the good news:
I just scored an ALI certified 9000lbs. lift from a guy closing his business and moving out of state. The thing is 4 years old and looks like it has had a car on it about 10 times. I gave $1,200 for it and feel it was worth much more.


Then the bad news:
The installation instructions blow. It gives basic dimensions but makes no reference to relief cuts or type of anchor bolts. For the bolts it just says "using the supplied anchors" which doesn't do me allot of good.


And now the questions:
How far from the relief cuts do the columns have to be? What are you guys finding is a comfortable working distance from walls? What type of anchors did you use? I read another thread that recommended epoxy be used. Do you still use the wedge anchors along with the epoxy?

And I know ---- I ****

Rich

I bought a Rotary 2 post lift and then paid a local company that does nothing but that type of installation work $481.50. When I am up under a car on that thing I feel like that was the best $ I ever spent.

 

[Special55]

Nobody can give an opinion of how far away from the walls they feel is comfortable?
The sorry installation instructions say 2 feet but something tells me that is a bit too close.

No one has additional info on the anchoring method?
I thought Aahz would be so happy that I held out for an ALI cert lift that he would send me a free anchoring kit and offer to come on over and show me how to bolt this thing down.

Come on guys. Help a brother out.

 

[red98gt]

Have you checked with Challenger, see if they have an anchor kit for it?

http://www.challengerlifts.com/contact.shtml

 

[bmwpower]

Nobody can give an opinion of how far away from the walls they feel is comfortable?
The sorry installation instructions say 2 feet but something tells me that is a bit too close.

No one has additional info on the anchoring method?
I thought Aahz would be so happy that I held out for an ALI cert lift that he would send me a free anchoring kit and offer to come on over and show me how to bolt this thing down.

Come on guys. Help a brother out.

2 feet is a good rule of thumb. I believe the same holds true for Rotaries as well.

Mine is less than 2 feet from the wall (I think). Dealer said 2 feet is a guideline - you can go less....to a point.

Honestly, we've talked about anchors before. Here's mine:

More info than you probably care about:

http://www.us.hilti.com/data/techli...reports/icbo/ICC_1385_KB3_for_Cored_Holes.pdf

 

[Vicious_Cycle]

I used 3/4" wedge floor anchors. I have a couple notes of caution for you.

1) Drill the holes ALL THE WAY down through the bottom of the concrete. This way, if you have issues, you can pound the anchors down into the earth beneath the concrete and start over. Pounding them down is easy... trying to pull them back out is NOT easy; you will break your concrete.

2) If the instructions tell you to torque the nuts to 150 ft-lbs, that is an awfully high number. My instructions quoted that torque spec in numerous places, so I took it as gospel. When I tried to torque the anchors to 150, they began pulling out of the concrete. I created a mess for myself. Note that I didn't follow rule #1 above.

I have since spoken with several people who install lifts for a living. EVERYONE I have spoken to has said that 150 ft-lbs is overkill and is just asking for trouble. Most installers use a 1/2" drive impact, and just zap the nuts down tight. If they loosen up in six months, repeat. No problem.

Congrats on your purchase. I think you did very good.

Oh... I would stay 3' away from saw cuts, major cracks, and walls (if possible).

 

[bmwpower]

2) If the instructions tell you to torque the nuts to 150 ft-lbs, that is an awfully high number. My instructions quoted that torque spec in numerous places, so I took it as gospel. When I tried to torque the anchors to 150, they began pulling out of the concrete. I created a mess for myself. Note that I didn't follow rule #1 above.

I have since spoken with several people who install lifts for a living. EVERYONE I have spoken to has said that 150 ft-lbs is overkill and is just asking for trouble. Most installers use a 1/2" drive impact, and just zap the nuts down tight. If they loosen up in six months, repeat. No problem.

This is exactly what my installers did. Electric impact gun and snugged them up tight.

 

[ZRX61]

I spoke with a concrete guy just 2 days ago as I am thinking about putting a lift outside behind my garage.
This bozo told me the base for the towers needs to be 12ft wide, 3ft deep & 4 to 6ft front to back...obviously I won't be calling that clown back...

 

[gb70]

I spoke with a concrete guy just 2 days ago as I am thinking about putting a lift outside behind my garage.
This bozo told me the base for the towers needs to be 12ft wide, 3ft deep & 4 to 6ft front to back...obviously I won't be calling that clown back...

I have a Eagle 4 post model 7000XLT. The 4 post distributes the weight out more than a 2 post. If you move it outside I would call the lifts manufactures tech dept., and ask about footers that I think would be a good idea esp. if you plan on pouring new concrete anyways. I read somewhere that on 2 post footers are reccomended. Footers as they are sometimes called are more concrete pouerd under where the weight is. Like right under your post.

 

[malibu101]

I spoke with a concrete guy just 2 days ago as I am thinking about putting a lift outside behind my garage.
This bozo told me the base for the towers needs to be 12ft wide, 3ft deep & 4 to 6ft front to back...obviously I won't be calling that clown back...

You don't have a location listed but depending on your frost level 3' deep outside is not overkill, probably required by zoning. 12' wide sounds right, think how wide a car is,add the lift thickness and some base beyond that. 4' front to back sounds good too, I would want a substantial base under it and tieing the 2 side together.
In addition, if it was me doing this outside, I would throw rebar in as well.
If he's saying 3' deep the whole way front to rear and side to side, ("under the car") that seems way excessive. Although he may have meant digging that deep for footers and pouring "walls" on that to support the edges of the slab footprint. Your descripition is kinda vauge.

 

[iiibdsiil]

Epoxy and threaded rod would work for installing it. Drill the hole, fill with epoxy (big tubes, dual caulking gun type), drop the rod in the hole, that thing ain't going anywhere. If you decide you are moving, you just take the nuts off, lift the post over the studs, grind the studs flat with the ground, and let the next owner worry about how to make that look pretty.

I would want more then 2 feet on each side of the posts. You want to be able to easily walk around there, and push stuff around if you need to. I promise you that the one time you can't get the lift in the air to get something bigger then 2 wide around the post, you will not be able to get the lift in the air for whatever reason.

 

[ZRX61]

You don't have a location listed but depending on your frost level 3' deep outside is not overkill,

Mojave Desert, we don't even have rain (well, ok, 3 or 4 days a year). I've forgotten what frost looks like I've had a car outside stripped to bare metal for about 6 weeks & there's not a spot of rust anywhere on it..

If he's saying 3' deep the whole way front to rear and side to side, ("under the car") that seems way excessive.

He was talking one big solid block of concrete..

 

[PAToyota]

I'm not sure I'd consider that excessive when you think about the weight of a vehicle and the overturning forces involved. In a garage, the extent of the slab is going to limit overturning.

Although, I'm not sure why he'd suggest that thick and not just a larger pad (length x width) unless it was a frost depth situation (which your location isn't). Like putting it on a 12' x 20' x 6" pad...

I'd check with the mfg for the application in question. The guy may have no idea and is just suggesting something he figures will cover his **** and not give any problems.

 

[Special55]

Thanks for the information guys, it's greatly appreciated and exactly what I was looking for

ZRX,
You may want to start another thread to address your issue. I don't mind it being discussed here as I believe the more info available the better. However, if someone were in the same boat as you they would have a difficult time finding the information through a search.

And as always, any additional suggestions or opinions are welcome

 

[Aahz]

Nobody can give an opinion of how far away from the walls they feel is comfortable?
The sorry installation instructions say 2 feet but something tells me that is a bit too close.

No one has additional info on the anchoring method?
I thought Aahz would be so happy that I held out for an ALI cert lift that he would send me a free anchoring kit and offer to come on over and show me how to bolt this thing down.

Come on guys. Help a brother out.

LMAO.....Sorry Special55....Congrats on the ALI Certified Lift! I'm extremely happy that you were able to get a good deal on a good product! It looks like I pretty much missed this thread...been busy selling lifts and stuff...(a guy has to make a living ya' know!)

My personal opinion is that 2' from a wall is pretty good. If you're a skinny dude...you won't have trouble getting from front to back...If you're a pogue like me...well....3-4' is much more comfortable...(depending on how much was eaten at the last meal....)

 

[Special55]

LMAO.....Sorry Special55....Congrats on the ALI Certified Lift! I'm extremely happy that you were able to get a good deal on a good product! It looks like I pretty much missed this thread...been busy selling lifts and stuff...(a guy has to make a living ya' know!)

My personal opinion is that 2' from a wall is pretty good. If you're a skinny dude...you won't have trouble getting from front to back...If you're a pogue like me...well....3-4' is much more comfortable...(depending on how much was eaten at the last meal....)

I thought you would enjoy that

If weight is a consideration I may need to observe the 3-4' requirements

 

[heavytlc]

I have an Ammco 2post lift. It is maybe 4feet from the wall. I have a tube rack on that wall that has right at 2feet of space from it. If you have room 3-4 feet would be nice. Think about pulling your welder, transmission jack or whatever around that side. I guess it depends on what type of work you do in the shop.

I installed mine with3/4 wedge anchors. When I move it to the new shop I will be using epoxt to set the bolts. I will recomend a deadman or 2. It is alot better to have a car stable when you are beating on it.

As far as setting one up. I lifted mine from the back of my box truck and was able to stand it up with one small guy helping. If I remember, I had 5 guys help me move the post into the shop. They are very heavy, and it was very stupid to stand them the way I did. I learn as I get older.