Installing overhead doors
- Thread starter mattv97
- Start date
Doug B
Well-known member
FunkyfullWidth
Well-known member
I worked for over head door for a few years. Residential doors aren't that hard to install.
Dress all the panels with the correct hinges first. put the rollers in the hinges. Most of the time depending on manufacturer the hinges are numbered. shortest hinge on the bottom, tallest hing on the top usually the top hinge has an adjustment.
Attach the cables to the ground panel and center the panel in the opening. THEN, put the track up. Only attach with a couple of lags so you can still adjust. You want around an inch of play between the rollers and the doors.
after the bottom panel is in place, and the two uprights are in start putting the rest of the panels in. Leave the top panel out until last.
Install the horizontals and radius'. You want the track to line up perfectly whilethe horizontal is level. It's easiest to have someone hold the back of the horizontal level while you line up the where the track sections meet in the front.
for torsion spring setups sometimes the bearing plates will be seperate from the horizontals, sometimes the bearing plates will bolted to them.
With the horizontals in place you can install the top panel Then run all the cables behind the rollers to the top.
Then install your springs and cable drums. Two different ways to do this. You can put the spring(s) and drums on the shaft first, or sometimes you can put the spring on the shaft after you have the shaft through one of the bearing plates. Just make sure that the spring is going the right direction. other wise when you tension the spring it could unwind off the cones. I find it easier to have the spring/drum/shaft assembly together on the ground, then walk it up the ladder and install. Mark the center line between bearings So that your shaft assembly is level and straight. for a single spring It'll probably be offset so that one side doesn't go faster than the other, for double springs, the middle bearing plate will be in the center of the door.
After you get the springs up, make sure to put some vice grips over a few of the rollers to keep the door from going up. Wind the springs.... Carefully, with the right kind of bars, in the right direction. after the right amount of turns tighten the set screws run the cables up into the drums, twist the drums so there's slight tension on the cables, as equal on both sides as possible and tighten the set screws. Make sure the drums are on the right side, sometimes they're labled, sometimes not. After the springs are tensioned, the cables are installed run the door up so you have about 1 1/2 panels in the air, then re vice grip everything. Now you can adjust the horizontals and install your rear drops. Then it's just a matter of making everything straight, square, level and ensuring the proper gaps for your rollers. Making sure that nothing rubs.
If you know who made the doors, you could probably call a local door company, tell them the size and dimensions, tell them the rough size of the spring, the model/series of door and they'll tell you the amount of windings. Normally for insulated ( not wood) 9x8 residential doors with no glass, you're probably looking around 7-8 turns.
extension springs can be a little harder, and nowadays are usually with non insulated doors. with those you need to have the doors all the way up before they're installed.
Hopefully I steered ya in the right direction if you chose to diy.
Dress all the panels with the correct hinges first. put the rollers in the hinges. Most of the time depending on manufacturer the hinges are numbered. shortest hinge on the bottom, tallest hing on the top usually the top hinge has an adjustment.
Attach the cables to the ground panel and center the panel in the opening. THEN, put the track up. Only attach with a couple of lags so you can still adjust. You want around an inch of play between the rollers and the doors.
after the bottom panel is in place, and the two uprights are in start putting the rest of the panels in. Leave the top panel out until last.
Install the horizontals and radius'. You want the track to line up perfectly whilethe horizontal is level. It's easiest to have someone hold the back of the horizontal level while you line up the where the track sections meet in the front.
for torsion spring setups sometimes the bearing plates will be seperate from the horizontals, sometimes the bearing plates will bolted to them.
With the horizontals in place you can install the top panel Then run all the cables behind the rollers to the top.
Then install your springs and cable drums. Two different ways to do this. You can put the spring(s) and drums on the shaft first, or sometimes you can put the spring on the shaft after you have the shaft through one of the bearing plates. Just make sure that the spring is going the right direction. other wise when you tension the spring it could unwind off the cones. I find it easier to have the spring/drum/shaft assembly together on the ground, then walk it up the ladder and install. Mark the center line between bearings So that your shaft assembly is level and straight. for a single spring It'll probably be offset so that one side doesn't go faster than the other, for double springs, the middle bearing plate will be in the center of the door.
After you get the springs up, make sure to put some vice grips over a few of the rollers to keep the door from going up. Wind the springs.... Carefully, with the right kind of bars, in the right direction. after the right amount of turns tighten the set screws run the cables up into the drums, twist the drums so there's slight tension on the cables, as equal on both sides as possible and tighten the set screws. Make sure the drums are on the right side, sometimes they're labled, sometimes not. After the springs are tensioned, the cables are installed run the door up so you have about 1 1/2 panels in the air, then re vice grip everything. Now you can adjust the horizontals and install your rear drops. Then it's just a matter of making everything straight, square, level and ensuring the proper gaps for your rollers. Making sure that nothing rubs.
If you know who made the doors, you could probably call a local door company, tell them the size and dimensions, tell them the rough size of the spring, the model/series of door and they'll tell you the amount of windings. Normally for insulated ( not wood) 9x8 residential doors with no glass, you're probably looking around 7-8 turns.
extension springs can be a little harder, and nowadays are usually with non insulated doors. with those you need to have the doors all the way up before they're installed.
Hopefully I steered ya in the right direction if you chose to diy.
Last edited:
Gary S
Well-known member
If you can read instructions and use a screwdriver and wrench, go for it.
If not, call for help on your cell phone and have someone else do it.
If not, call for help on your cell phone and have someone else do it.
Do you need a pro... No... Is it completely unsafe... Not really. It's more common sense and being able to read/use a level correctly. Unfortunately we know what's happened to common sense these days 
And I wont speaketh of the training on the fine art of levels...
The basics are pretty well covered in the manual - where things derail - is when you get into the usual problems... And a true professionally installed door will run way better than a DIY'd in the end (That said - finding a professional is tough, there's a lot of hacks in this industry) But that comes down to the finer details - that they just can't fit into the manuals, and comes from years of practice, not a 15-20 page manual that's mostly made up of warnings.
And I wont speaketh of the training on the fine art of levels... The basics are pretty well covered in the manual - where things derail - is when you get into the usual problems... And a true professionally installed door will run way better than a DIY'd in the end (That said - finding a professional is tough, there's a lot of hacks in this industry) But that comes down to the finer details - that they just can't fit into the manuals, and comes from years of practice, not a 15-20 page manual that's mostly made up of warnings.
dirttracker18
Well-known member
Like many other things we guys do, there is inherent danger involved.
That being said, like everything else we do, that danger can be mitigated by working carefully, understanding the instructions and following safe procedures.
You are working on a ladder with a high tension spring, treat it with respect.
That being said, like everything else we do, that danger can be mitigated by working carefully, understanding the instructions and following safe procedures.
You are working on a ladder with a high tension spring, treat it with respect.
IONH
Well-known member
This thread is of interest to me. The front wall of my garage is severely water damaged at the bottom and none of the studs are really structurally sound. I could see outside some of them at the very bottom until I sprayed some foam to keep the mice out.
Anyway, I want to rebuild the bottom of that non-load bearing wall but remounting the two garage doors is one of the things that has kept me from doing it. Their bottoms are somewhat rusted and the bottom rollers are so rusted the rollers are splintered with rust and don't roll.
Glad to hear that if you can use a level, you can install garage doors. I'd want to reuse my existing tracks of course and I believe the rollers are fairly standard at around 2" across.
Anyway, I want to rebuild the bottom of that non-load bearing wall but remounting the two garage doors is one of the things that has kept me from doing it. Their bottoms are somewhat rusted and the bottom rollers are so rusted the rollers are splintered with rust and don't roll.
Glad to hear that if you can use a level, you can install garage doors. I'd want to reuse my existing tracks of course and I believe the rollers are fairly standard at around 2" across.
upndown
Well-known member
Without knowing your mechanical skills, or ability to read and follow directions, I won't comment either way. I will say I've seen and read of others that have done it with great success and some Not So Much! If you have any doubts..Pay someone to do it. Don't try something you may end up regretting the rest of your life, just to save a few bucks...These Aint Toys. Good luck..
IONH
Well-known member
I was at Home Depot today and saw a couple garage door kits in box. I think the 9x7 was around $350 and 8x7 was $250. Included track, springs, etc.
Pretty inexpensive.
I wonder if it's worth trying to replace just the doors if the rest is in acceptable shape. Can anyone comment if most rollers are the same sizes?
Pretty inexpensive.
I wonder if it's worth trying to replace just the doors if the rest is in acceptable shape. Can anyone comment if most rollers are the same sizes?
sophijo
Well-known member
upndown
Well-known member
Yes, standard rollers are all the same size!
No... You're buying a door system... You don't just replace the door face. Different manufacturers use different offsets for hinges and track brackets, different widths of door faces, different track systems. Generally start mixing and matching parts - and you're creating a nightmare that's probably not going to work right...
And the answer you seek is complex and simple; In theory a 2" roller is a 2" roller...
However, over the years, there have been various manufacturers with a proprietary 2" roller... Stanley's with those damn 5/16" shaft rollers; there was a Super 2 roller - which was 2 3/16" OD and much narrower. . I'm sure other manufacturers played the proprietary parts game over the years...
IONH
Well-known member
Thanks guys.
I saw some nylon 2" rollers on the net which claim to be super quiet. Do you think those are worth while for an upgrade?
I saw some nylon 2" rollers on the net which claim to be super quiet. Do you think those are worth while for an upgrade?
upndown
Well-known member
I use only 10 ball bearing nylon rollers for replacement or upgrade, no complaints or failures so far!
If you go with nylon rollers, take a minute to check the transition between the vertical and horizontal tracks. Make sure it's somewhat smooth if not this Will wear your nylon wheel over time!
If you go with nylon rollers, take a minute to check the transition between the vertical and horizontal tracks. Make sure it's somewhat smooth if not this Will wear your nylon wheel over time!
Pat Brady
Banned
I could do them. But I have never been in aposition where I had to. When I had them installed the installer came with the job. But you need to be careful. I think they use rebar to adjust them with. And if you don't get them adjusted just right, they can be a pain in the ****.
But you need to be careful. I think they use rebar to adjust them with. And if you don't get them adjusted just right, they can be a pain in the ****.Spudland_Dave
Well-known member
I say False to that. The first garage door in our house was Professionally installed and while it worked, it was NOTHING as smooth as the door I installed in the same opening when the wife/son killed the original door. Not to brag, but The door I installed runs as smooth as glass. Took me and a friend the better part of a day to do it but we were nitpicking details. Almost wore out 2 levels,
When it came time to install the 3 in my new garage, It went much faster and again, all 3 run as smooth as glass.
Installing the doors is easy...tuning & tweaking a LM3800 opener is 50x harder. Hindsight being 20/20 with the lessons i've learnt, I could install a new door and LM3800 "professionally" in no time.
Boils down to I dont pay anybody to do anything I can do myself.
I follow the same principle.
Old Moparz
Well-known member
Like some have said, yes, it can be a DIY project. If you are mechanically inclined & have assembled things in the past without botching it up, the doors are not difficult. I've had many years of experience in home improvements & built my 2 story garage myself so I wasn't afraid of attempting the overhead doors when it was time to install them. I put in a pair of 16'x8' doors alone & wasn't too difficult. The hardest part was getting past the fear of the metal rod used to wind the torsion spring when it was wound up tight. 
So reread what I wrote (I quoted it for you).
3800s shouldn't require 'tweaking' - mechanically mount, program limits, program forces, done... if the doors correct - there's nothing left to do (well maybe take back hangs 1 more inch up to make the door a smidge heavier).