Installing Rubber Cove Molding

[Stephenw]

I installed rubber cove molding from Home Depot around the base of my garage. The molding came in 4 ft sections, $1.86 for vinyl, or $3.29 for rubber. I chose rubber because it looked like it was better quality.

The tools…

Square
Wood (to cut the molding on)
Caulking Gun
Adhesive
Adhesive Nozzle
Tape Measure
Utility Knife
Laminate Roller

 

[Stephenw]

The first picture shows the nozzle installed on the adhesive cartridge and the assembly installed in the caulking gun. The second picture shows the adhesive spread on the back of a piece of molding. If you apply too much adhesive, it will squeeze out and make a mess. When you apply the molding to the wall, it is important to roll it with a laminate roller to get it to stick properly. Roll from the top down. Do not stretch the molding. It will shrink when the adhesive dries and you will have large gaps.

 

[Stephenw]

To make an inside corner joint, cut the toe off the adjoining piece of molding, as in the first picture. Use a piece of scrap to practice making the joint. Experiment with the cut angle, until you find a method that looks good to you.

 

[Stephenw]

For an outside corner, the molding should wrap around. Fold the molding face to face as in the first picture. Cut about half the thickness of the material from the back of the joint. Cut a “Y” shape from the bottom of the joint, also half the thickness of the material. It is hard to tell from the picture, but this cut is on the portion that is on the wall. Nothing is cut from the portion that lies on the floor. I used weights to hold the outside corners in place until the adhesive set.

 

[Stephenw]

Here is the finished project. I learned that this is much harder than it looks. Outside corners are a pain to do. Also, have a roll of the blue shop type paper towels and a bucket of warm water handy. Use this to clean up glue that squeezes out.

 

[FFPL]

For an outside corner, the molding should wrap around. Fold the molding face to face as in the first picture. Cut about half the thickness of the material from the back of the joint. Cut a “Y” shape from the bottom of the joint, also half the thickness of the material. It is hard to tell from the picture, but this cut is on the portion that is on the wall. Nothing is cut from the portion that lies on the floor. I used weights to hold the outside corners in place until the adhesive set.

Nice job. When I did mine I mitered the outside corners. The wall is now painted so it contrasts a little nicer.

 

[MustHang]

Nice job ! I plan to put this too when I get to finish my walls.

 

[RickP330]

Oh man, You really put me to shame LOL. Mine never really stuck fully is coming off in some places, but for the most part looks Okay, at least untill I see yours LOL. Great job.
RickP

 

[thrytis]

Nice explanation. I wish i could have found a reference like this when i was doing mine.

You can also get the cove molding in 50' rolls. You don't have to worry about gaps, but it can also be a pain at times dealing with the extra length ahead of where you are working. I applied the adhesive in sections, attached it to the wall, then moved onto the next section. Premade corners are also available so you don't have to worry about mitering, clipping the bottom, or scoring the back. I think these have to be special ordered if you're getting them from a place like Lowes or Home Depot.

Besides using weights to press on the molding while the adhesive sets, i found clamps with reversible heads (like quick grips or besseys) where helpful for applying pressure around outside corners when an opposite wall was close enough.

 

[jtjnyhgh]

i need edging, the trim you would put on the end of the tile/