Installing wall lockers and cabinets

[grabera7]

Hello,

I'm planning to install a set of New Age cabinets in my garage. I purchased 4 wall lockers, 4 base cabinets, and 4 wall cabinets. I'm planning to install them into the garage pictured in the attachments. The block sticks out 3.25" from the drywall.

I was planning to double stack 2x4? 2x6? and then put some 1/2" plywood on top but not sure if this is the best method. I want to make sure the wall lockers and base cabinets are secured to the wall.

I figured I should bring the wall cabinets out to match the wall lockers? Is that not worth it? Should I just secure the wall/base by building out the wall and then install the wall cabinets directly to the drywall/studs?

There will be a gap between the wall and the counter on the base cabinets and wall lockers and wall. Planning to just fill that gap with trim.

Thanks in advance!

 

[Kaizen]

You want them sitting on the ground right? If so just cut or build up “shims” to make up the difference. So wood screwed to the wall and cabinet to the wood.
If you are not using as a counter you can screw them to the studs and sit on top of the block. The wall will be supporting most of the weight and you can use space under them. Assuming these are the metal ones


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[Hobbit]

If the wall cabinets are to be directly over the base cabinets I would secure the wall cabinets directly to the wall giving more table top clearance on top of the base cabinets. Think about hinging the back of the base cabinets table top as to use the void behind the base cabinet for storage.

 

[grabera7]

Yes, the base cabinets and wall lockers will all be on the ground using the leveling legs NewAge provides. They are the Pro3 metal cabinets. I originally thought about putting the bottom on the block and mounting everything up on the walls but the counter would've been too high.

 

[grabera7]

If the wall cabinets are to be directly over the base cabinets I would secure the wall cabinets directly to the wall giving more table top clearance on top of the base cabinets. Think about hinging the back of the base cabinets table top as to use the void behind the base cabinet for storage.

What do you mean by hinging the back of the base cabinets?

 

[grabera7]

Stock image of what the cabinets look like.

 

[Kaizen]

Put them all in the ground and have a void behind. Use wood to fill visible space and screw to attach to wall. This way the workbench is right height. Top cab will be inset a little. Only problem I see is the space at the back of the countertop. I’d make a tool holder to fill that gap at workbench.
Not enough room to worry about storing anything back there besides maybe steel lengths or pipe. The comment about hinging the workbench top was to access the void to put stuff in there.


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[grabera7]

Only problem I see is the space at the back of the countertop. I’d make a tool holder to fill that gap at workbench.
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I was kind of thinking about attaching some 1x4 cut down and flat with a 1/4" reveal above the top of the countertop. The extra material would allow me to run a bead of clear caulk to keep liquids/dust from getting down.

 

[Kaizen]

I was kind of thinking about attaching some 1x4 cut down and flat with a 1/4" reveal above the top of the countertop. The extra material would allow me to run a bead of clear caulk to keep liquids/dust from getting down.

Whatever you think looks good. With that setup it’s all about form before function


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[pukematrix]

Subscribed to see what you end up doing, as I've got the same scenario in my garage and am about to order a Pro 3.0 set.

Austin

 

[road_king]

Went through this recently. Decided to wall mount above the block foundation.
Makes for a nice clean install with no need to worry about how to fill the gap.
Top block is 61/2" from floor. Puts the top cabinets a bit high up to reach things that might be in the back of the top shelf. I'm close to 6' tall and can manage fine with that. I suppose if your shorter you might need to keep a step stool handy.

 

[dglennon]

I'd second this method of installation. Set mine up on the "curb" around the outside of the garage about 6" above the floor. It makes sweeping under them much easier and I have a nice place to store snowmobile lift, dollies, etc. The bench is not real clean in this picture, but I have been very happy with the NewAge cabinets!

 

[The Cobbler]

I would mount the cabinets to the wall with some spacers to make up the difference, and make some sort of a sliding panel or something that fits behind the cabinet that can be pulled open used to store stuff that's not used a lot .

 

[woodee]

I would mount the cabinets to the wall with some spacers to make up the difference, and make some sort of a sliding panel or something that fits behind the cabinet that can be pulled open used to store stuff that's not used a lot .

Yeah like a motorized TV lift!!!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/VIVO-Bla...uGad6kUDg-giaPUR_GZP34wtCeAe0AaUaAsE9EALw_wcB

 

[HotrodHR]

Put them all in the ground and have a void behind. Use wood to fill visible space and screw to attach to wall. This way the workbench is right height. Top cab will be inset a little. Only problem I see is the space at the back of the countertop. I’d make a tool holder to fill that gap at workbench.
Not enough room to worry about storing anything back there besides maybe steel lengths or pipe. The comment about hinging the workbench top was to access the void to put stuff in there.


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^^^^^ this is what I would do. His curb is two blocks high, too high to set the cabinets on.

 

[rayra]

on the floor and use the dead space behind the cabinets / above the block courses as storage for raw materials. set of narrow shelves for pipes, a long level, a short ladder. All sorts of stuff would fit back there. PRoviding you have enough room to the side to draw the stuff out / put it in.
Or block the gap behind the counter with a backsplash that is itself a set of storage shelves of cubbies or a tool rack / charging stations.

 

[Kaizen]

on the floor and use the dead space behind the cabinets / above the block courses as storage for raw materials. set of narrow shelves for pipes, a long level, a short ladder. All sorts of stuff would fit back there. PRoviding you have enough room to the side to draw the stuff out / put it in.

Or block the gap behind the counter with a backsplash that is itself a set of storage shelves of cubbies or a tool rack / charging stations.

Op has 3.25 inches. Not enough to justify designing a space as he will need the same open space to one side to insert pipe or wood. So four foot storage needs four feet of open space. Better to use that space wiser


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[grabera7]

I ended up building the wall out with some 2x4s and used 1x5 trim cut to width to make up the gap and to create a little shelf. I'm going to paint the side trim black and leave the shelf white. I need to caulk the seams too.

 

[QwikKotaTx]

Too rich for my blood but man, those are sweet.

 

[Vadk]

Hello,

I'm planning to install a set of New Age cabinets in my garage. I purchased 4 wall lockers, 4 base cabinets, and 4 wall cabinets. I'm planning to install them into the garage pictured in the attachments. The block sticks out 3.25" from the drywall.

I was planning to double stack 2x4? 2x6? and then put some 1/2" plywood on top but not sure if this is the best method. I want to make sure the wall lockers and base cabinets are secured to the wall.

I figured I should bring the wall cabinets out to match the wall lockers? Is that not worth it? Should I just secure the wall/base by building out the wall and then install the wall cabinets directly to the drywall/studs?

There will be a gap between the wall and the counter on the base cabinets and wall lockers and wall. Planning to just fill that gap with trim.

Thanks in advance!

The concrete bump out is 4”. 2 2x4 is only 3” in thickness. So how did you fill the gap ?

 

[grabera7]

The concrete bump out is 4”. 2 2x4 is only 3” in thickness. So how did you fill the gap ?

The concrete bump was 3.25" and the wall wasn't completely plumb so I just used shims as needed.

 

[Vadk]

our bump out is 4”. Any ideas ? Shims will just fall apart upon drilling