To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Insulate Gable Wall for scissor truss

CSattl09

New member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
White Bear Lake, MN
New poster here!
I’ve been enjoying all of the info on this form, it has been very informative.

My question is on preferred approach to insulate the portion of a gable wall that is below the ceiling line for a scissor truss application. How do I do this?

The gable wall on my garage is constructed from what looks to be 2x3’s, with the longer 3” portion flat against the wall. This only leaves 1.5” space for insulation. I’m already planning to add a “nailer” that runs parallel with the scissor truss so that I can extend drywall/etc to the gable.

Do I just add extra 2x3 or 2x4 to the gable as an additional wall, with the wide side pointing outward like a 2x4 stud wall? How best to attach this to the gable?

Thanks for any help
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

flippin

Well-known member
Joined
May 24, 2010
Messages
740
Location
Montreal - Ottawa
I just recently added a 3rd bay to my attached 2-car garage. The new bay is 5' taller than the existing garage. To maximise the height in the loft above the new bay I also utilized scissor trusses. I insulated the gable wall of the existing garage (where it met the new addition with spray foam. I need to added a lot of additional support where the first truss of the new garage met the gable of the old garage. Spray foam ensured that everything was nicely sealed.
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
20,274
Location
Northern Virginia
New poster here!
I’ve been enjoying all of the info on this form, it has been very informative.

My question is on preferred approach to insulate the portion of a gable wall that is below the ceiling line for a scissor truss application. How do I do this?

The gable wall on my garage is constructed from what looks to be 2x3’s, with the longer 3” portion flat against the wall. This only leaves 1.5” space for insulation. I’m already planning to add a “nailer” that runs parallel with the scissor truss so that I can extend drywall/etc to the gable.

Do I just add extra 2x3 or 2x4 to the gable as an additional wall, with the wide side pointing outward like a 2x4 stud wall? How best to attach this to the gable?

Thanks for any help

Yes you install an overbuild on the flat scissor truss to plane out with the wall below to accommodate your insulation.
 
OP
C

CSattl09

New member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
White Bear Lake, MN
Here is an image. I’ll try to get a build thread going at some point.

I’ll see what I can do to build out the gable end for attachment. I’m not quite sure how I’ll attach a vertical 2x4 to the existing 2x3.


dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg
 

Attachments

  • dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg
    dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg
    108.6 KB · Views: 5

The Cobbler

Super Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
26,233
Location
Niagara Region, Ontario, Canada
strap the 2x3 to the thickness you need to be flush with the framed walls. you could use 2" rigid foam too probably
add a nailer to that, inline with your trusses so you can attach your drywall or sheathing
 

larry4406

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 27, 2006
Messages
20,274
Location
Northern Virginia
Here is an image. I’ll try to get a build thread going at some point.

I’ll see what I can do to build out the gable end for attachment. I’m not quite sure how I’ll attach a vertical 2x4 to the existing 2x3.


dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg

Nail the vertical 2x4 to the side of the flat 2x member.
 

Attachments

  • dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg
    dacbee63fe28f9d6637d1c8c7f8e1984.jpg
    55.7 KB · Views: 4
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Bert_

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 24, 2016
Messages
9,916
Location
NW Iowa
Why do people frame like this? Since this is a scissor truss it puts an unsupported hinge right in the middle of the wall.

Even to an electrician it just looks wrong...
 
OP
C

CSattl09

New member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
White Bear Lake, MN
So this is what I came up with. Since there is a 2x4 sticking out the width of a 2x off of the sill plate, I had to use a 2x4 in front of the vertical 2x3’s. That was the only config I could think that would line up with the sill plate.

I’m using mending plates on the flush side, and L brackets on the other. Since this isn’t load bearing, it should hold nicely especially once tied in with the nailer 2x4 and Sheetrock.f73e179760012299ebf2140a06172a33.jpg
 

Attachments

  • f73e179760012299ebf2140a06172a33.jpg
    f73e179760012299ebf2140a06172a33.jpg
    102.1 KB · Views: 5
OP
C

CSattl09

New member
Joined
May 18, 2019
Messages
4
Location
White Bear Lake, MN
Why do people frame like this? Since this is a scissor truss it puts an unsupported hinge right in the middle of the wall.



Even to an electrician it just looks wrong...



Bert, I agree. It doesn’t appear ideal, but I suspect once it’s all tied in with the sheathing there is some rigidity. Plus, on the side with my opener there is a 2x4 that ties in with the sill plate. Any opportunity to improve this? I’m not sure how it will be draywalled around. I’m hiring that job. Garage was build 15 years ago. 38x24fc60c49af4aaa648e23f0b33112a6bb9.jpg
 

Attachments

  • fc60c49af4aaa648e23f0b33112a6bb9.jpg
    fc60c49af4aaa648e23f0b33112a6bb9.jpg
    84.7 KB · Views: 5
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom