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Insulate my ceiling, how would you do it?

formanbob

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Feb 16, 2011
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Columbus, Ohio, USA
Insulate my ceiling, how would you do it?
Here is the info
The barn is 30x44 there are 4 trusses and the ends a stick built, that gives me 5 spaces. 44’/5 = 8.8’ oc
From what I can see on the photos. The top cord is 2x8 the bottom is 2x6 and the webs are 2x4.

My plan was to use joust hangers and 2x4x10 cut down and run them perpendicular to the trusses.
Then can mount metal to that. I have seen some say just free span from truss to truss but I’m not sure on that, and then it’s harder to do door tracks or air/power reels.

So seeing what I have and knowing I want to insulate. What would you do?
 

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tomroblee

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Indiapolis, IN
You don't have many options other than to spray closed cell foam on the underside of the roof.

What you are proposing will have considerable weight. Your trusses may not be designed to handle the weight of the 2x4 strapping, metal ceiling, and insulation. You should investigate this before you start
 

Slowgsr

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Nov 14, 2014
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Southern ontario
Spray the bottom of the roof -

My pole barn had 2x4 engineered trusses @ 24" oc, fortunately I was able to close the ceiling in a traditional method. I strapped it @ 16" oc

I wouldn't add that weight the way you speak of
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
Some thoughts:

What's the spacing on the purlins, 24"? Buy fiberglass batts and staple them to the purlins, just like you would on the walls.

Got a warranty on the barn? If you spray foam, and then need to replace the roofing panels it will be a ***** to get the panels off.

Look at the trusses, sometimes they will be tagged with their rating. If there is a tag, see if the Lower Cord has a dead load rating. If it does reply back here with the rating, maybe we can help determine if a ceiling can be installed
 
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Rookie2

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Western Pa.
Do you have any condensation ?

I've seen fine fish netting material stapled up then a chopped fiberglass with glue sprayed in . It's worth looking into, you may have to add some support.
 
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formanbob

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Feb 16, 2011
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Columbus, Ohio, USA
How about this idea. What I cut sheets of 1” foam and attach them to the underside of the roof ( the purlins) but in-between the trusses. Then I could come back and spray Foam the sheets and seal them up to the trusses.
Then when I replace the roof I don’t have to waist my investment in spray foam.
 
OP
F

formanbob

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Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
171
Location
Columbus, Ohio, USA
Insulate my ceiling, how would you do it?
Here is the info
The barn is 30x44 there are 4 trusses and the ends a stick built, that gives me 5 spaces. 44’/5 = 8.8’ oc
From what I can see on the photos. The top cord is 2x8 the bottom is 2x6 and the webs are 2x4.

My plan was to use joust hangers and 2x4x10 cut down and run them perpendicular to the trusses.
Then can mount metal to that. I have seen some say just free span from truss to truss but I’m not sure on that, and then it’s harder to do door tracks or air/power reels.

So seeing what I have and knowing I want to insulate. What would you do?

There was guy who did this on his brand new barn, his trusses were 8' oc.

Also I have read some threads that they just suspend the thing metal right to the underside if the trusses and would span 8'. so hummm
 
OP
F

formanbob

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Joined
Feb 16, 2011
Messages
171
Location
Columbus, Ohio, USA
Some thoughts:

What's the spacing on the purlins, 24"? Buy fiberglass batts and staple them to the purlins, just like you would on the walls.

Got a warranty on the barn? If you spray foam, and then need to replace the roofing panels it will be a ***** to get the panels off.

Look at the trusses, sometimes they will be tagged with their rating. If there is a tag, see if the Lower Cord has a dead load rating. If it does reply back here with the rating, maybe we can help determine if a ceiling can be installed

They look like they are 24oc
and no on the warranty. I will have to get my ladder out and look at the trusses.
 
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Radix2

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the thumb!, MI
How about this idea. What I cut sheets of 1” foam and attach them to the underside of the roof ( the purlins) but in-between the trusses. Then I could come back and spray Foam the sheets and seal them up to the trusses.
Then when I replace the roof I don’t have to waist my investment in spray foam.

That is a huge amount of work in tough conditions... How about wait until you can do the roof, then put the 1" foam up before the roof sheets - so you can replace at will in the future. Spray foam under to seal and lock it down.
 

mopar440_6

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Carlisle, PA
Were it my building, knowing the roof needs replaced anyway I would have an engineer take a look at it to see if I could add 4 more trusses in between the existing trusses while the roof was off to increase the load rating. At that point I could pretty much do any ceiling style I wanted...
 
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formanbob

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Columbus, Ohio, USA
Were it my building, knowing the roof needs replaced anyway I would have an engineer take a look at it to see if I could add 4 more trusses in between the existing trusses while the roof was off to increase the load rating. At that point I could pretty much do any ceiling style I wanted...

I had the same thought.
 

rburke65

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Nov 10, 2007
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12,349
Location
Canfield, Ohio
Yes, the same thought as mopar. This would be the perfect time to redo the roof and add 5 more trusses....which can't cost that much .... and give you a preferred solution to your problem.
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
... I would have an engineer take a look at it to see if I could add 4 more trusses ...

I had the same thought.

... This would be the perfect time to redo the roof and add 5 more trusses....which can't cost that much .... and give you a preferred solution to your problem.

The OP may not need to add any trusses at all. My barn has a lower chord 15# dead load rating by design... and the trusses are spaced 12'-6".

Before adding anything, find out what the existing trusses are rated for.

Not to mention that it would be really expensive: taking all the purlins off, rigging the new trusses, and adding new purlins.... plus permit costs, etc.

And what are you proposing the OP set the new trusses on? Typical pole barn construction with trusses spaced like the OP has will have the trusses sitting atop poles/columns? Are you fellas proposing adding new posts / columns too?

$$$$$$
 
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UpNorther

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Jan 20, 2016
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318
Location
Brainerd, MN
I'd do it the way the OP said. Joist hangers about every 4' between trusses. Then poly it, metal sheet the ceiling, then blow it with cellulose.
Thats exactly what I plan on doing in my pole barn also. Same thing, my trusses are 8' on center.
The company that did mine, specificly asked about the ceiling beforehand. If I had wanted to sheetrock it instead of metal, it would have needed more trusses. Between snow load and sheetrock, it would have been to much for the existing 8' on center.
 
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formanbob

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Feb 16, 2011
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Columbus, Ohio, USA
Well I went out last night and everything was wet or flash rusted or sitting in a puddle.

So I think my first task is going to be new roof/siding. Then insulation, I may just do spray foam if it’s new siding/roof.
So I’m looking for a barn Company that services Marysville Ohio /Union County if any of you know of one.
 

Rookie2

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I probably do. I am sure I will once I start heating it.

MY 40x60 has a condensation problem with a metal roof. If you have to reroof it , redesign the trusses and shingle it or buy insulation (blankets) similar to commercial steel buildings. I wish I would have used this roll insulation 20 years ago. It can have a white vinyl interior side and brightens the work space. google 'Roll Roof Insulation'
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
... I’m looking for a barn Company that services Marysville Ohio /Union County if any of you know of one.

Lester, Morton, Cleary are all in your area...

We used to live near Dayton & had a Lester bldg erected. They did a stellar job. We had them add the roll insulation on top of the purlins, before the roofing steel is installed. That keeps the condensation away, and makes the building cooler in the summer, and warmer in the winter.

Roof ridge and soffit vents help with moisture issues too.

Our Lester Built Barn In Ohio
 
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