Insulated Garage door or not?

[jsundin65]

Looking at Raynor doors for my new metal building. Since I'm on FL, I will be spray foaming 2" in the building for an R value of around 14.
I don't want a rollup with R0, and feel it would just absorb and radiate the sun's heat into the building with my 10x10 door.

My mind is leaning to the door with R13 built in, as opposed to a pan door with an insulated panel of R6.

Any first hand experience of the heat gain of a metal door without insulation, with a little insulation and with a lot of insulation?

Thanks.

 

[Hank11]

I think you’re asking a question about something that’s pretty obvious. More insulation is better. An uninsulated door in direct sun will be like an oven.

 

[iagsxr]

I think you’re asking a question about something that’s pretty obvious. More insulation is better. An uninsulated door in direct sun will be like an oven.

^^^ This x100.

My feeling is that an uninsulated door closed would be worse than just leaving it open in the heat.

Which way does your door face? I'd go for east or north if you have the option.

 

[The Cobbler]

insulation is always good, I say yes to the r-13

 

[NUTTSGT]

Any insulation is better than no insulation in a garage door. . . even if it is merely making a thermal break.

 

[jsundin65]

I think you’re asking a question about something that’s pretty obvious. More insulation is better. An uninsulated door in direct sun will be like an oven.

I did say I would not do an ininsulated door. I was wondering if an r7 door is ok with the rest of the building being r13. Or conversely, is an r22 door overkill. I know I’m asking an obvious question but also asked for some real world experiences. Thanks for your input.

 

[jsundin65]

Any insulation is better than no insulation in a garage door. . . even if it is merely making a thermal break.

That’s why my choices are r 7, 13 or 22 for the door. I know the difference is not linear of r values so I may opt for 13 like the rest of the building being 2” foam.

 

[jsundin65]

insulation is always good, I say yes to the r-13

That does seem like the best compromise. The main door gets morning and mid day sun. The side door is under a lean so will get no direct sun. Thank you.

 

[jsundin65]

^^^ This x100.

My feeling is that an uninsulated door closed would be worse than just leaving it open in the heat.

Which way does your door face? I'd go for east or north if you have the option.

Not a choice in direction. Main door is facing se, and the other door sw but it’s under a lean, making it shaded.

I’ll have 2” foam all around so at least matching that is a good plan I feel.

 

[bdbecker]

I personally would not go with the R-7 option if it were my shop. What is the price difference between the R-13 and R-22 option? Unless the price difference is relatively minor, I doubt you'd notice much difference going with a higher value on your door versus the walls.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I personally would not go with the R-7 option if it were my shop. What is the price difference between the R-13 and R-22 option? Unless the price difference is relatively minor, I doubt you'd notice much difference going with a higher value on your door versus the walls.

I'd agree. I doubt the -13 and -22 are close in price but you never know. It would be worth asking though.

 

[jsundin65]

I'd agree. I doubt the -13 and -22 are close in price but you never know. It would be worth asking though.

About 600$ diff and it’s r13 and r18. I still think I could save $600 which will pay for the garage door openers.

Installed price.
1-10'2"x10 Raynor AP138 R-13.45 White 150 MPH wind Rated to steel frame
1-8'2"x8 Same as above .. $4560.00

Same sizes as above AP 200 R-18
$5160.00

 

[bdbecker]

I don't think the additional $600 is worth it - I vote for the R-13 option.

 

[finn]

I’ve been looking at doors for an unheated garage on a piece of property we have here in Mi. The issue isn’t hot weather here, but rather cold weather. The conversation with the owner of the garage door company went along the lines of what is the building going to be used for. In my case, I won’t personally be living at the house for several years, so in the interim it will be mostly storage.

His recommendation was the lower value, something like R6 or 7.

He thought that if it was to be sometimes heated, , but still only occasional use, the R13 insulation would be preferred, as the door is a little stiffer. Going above that may be warranted if it’s heated full time, for daily use.

In the end, I stumbled on a totally uninsulated takeout door with a newish Craftsman opener for a couple hundred dollars. Not what I want if I end up living there full time at some point, but it keeps the raccoons out in the interim.

That door, and the insulated door in our Tucson house are both pretty flimsy. The Tucson door is probably in the R6 range which is fine when we’re there in the winter. All the doors at my shop are commercial grade, and both very stiff and well insulated. That’s the way to go if budget is an issue. I assume the wind rating accounts for that, though.

 

[dcg9381]

Looking at Raynor doors for my new metal building. Since I'm on FL, I will be spray foaming 2" in the building for an R value of around 14.
I don't want a rollup with R0, and feel it would just absorb and radiate the sun's heat into the building with my 10x10 door.

Roll up doors ****. I have 3 of them. They're hard to get "tight" to the building/seals, they rattle in the wind... And you have it right, I can stand within a few feet of that door and feel the heat coming off the metal.

Definitely get an insulated panel door. The difference is night and day. My shop is about R14 (spray foam) and biggest thermal losses are those damn roll-up doors.

 

[jsundin65]

I’ve been looking at doors for an unheated garage on a piece of property we have here in Mi. The issue isn’t hot weather here, but rather cold weather. The conversation with the owner of the garage door company went along the lines of what is the building going to be used for. In my case, I won’t personally be living at the house for several years, so in the interim it will be mostly storage.

His recommendation was the lower value, something like R6 or 7.

He thought that if it was to be sometimes heated, , but still only occasional use, the R13 insulation would be preferred, as the door is a little stiffer. Going above that may be warranted if it’s heated full time, for daily use.

In the end, I stumbled on a totally uninsulated takeout door with a newish Craftsman opener for a couple hundred dollars. Not what I want if I end up living there full time at some point, but it keeps the raccoons out in the interim.

That door, and the insulated door in our Tucson house are both pretty flimsy. The Tucson door is probably in the R6 range which is fine when we’re there in the winter. All the doors at my shop are commercial grade, and both very stiff and well insulated. That’s the way to go if budget is an issue. I assume the wind rating accounts for that, though.

I had an uninsulated garage door in Alabama, and the garage faced west. That sucker got HOT! I put those foam panels in it and it helped a little. That is why I am thinking about this now. I have that chance to do the right thing! It will get heat, rain and wind. I think the R13 version will be better than anything I have ever had. Heck, I am 59 and need to start treating myself.

 

[jsundin65]

Roll up doors ****. I have 3 of them. They're hard to get "tight" to the building/seals, they rattle in the wind... And you have it right, I can stand within a few feet of that door and feel the heat coming off the metal.

Definitely get an insulated panel door. The difference is night and day. My shop is about R14 (spray foam) and biggest thermal losses are those damn roll-up doors.

Good advice from a Texan. You know about heat. Thank you.

 

[Beemer]

You can add rigid insulation to the inside of the door if needed.
My architect/roofer specialist client told my once the specific type, maybe polyunsaturate, but it's been a log time so that needs verifying.
When I look at my doors I see and feel the biggest cold infiltration at the side track door edges so I dealt with that rather than another layer of face insulation.

 

[Sumboodie]

About 600$ diff and it’s r13 and r18. I still think I could save $600 which will pay for the garage door openers.

Installed price.
1-10'2"x10 Raynor AP138 R-13.45 White 150 MPH wind Rated to steel frame
1-8'2"x8 Same as above .. $4560.00

Same sizes as above AP 200 R-18
$5160.00

Wow those are super cheap.

 

[nadogail]

The most recent replacement garage door I purchased is fully insulated and has a metal lining, it is a lot quieter than the one it replaced and the garage is a lot more comfortable in both the Summer and the Southern California Winter.

I am planning on replacing the doors on my other properties with metal lined insulated doors when and if the present doors fail.

 

[BrandonV]

I just ordered some insulated doors for my garage. I suppose in the summer here, wouldn't the doors trap the heat from the cars longer inside? Not sure what is worse.

 

[manwithtools]

I just ordered some insulated doors for my garage. I suppose in the summer here, wouldn't the doors trap the heat from the cars longer inside? Not sure what is worse.

Thermal heat gain from the sun hitting all the surface area of a garage door would be much more than the amount of radiant heat from a recently driven car. Be happy you got the insulated doors!

 

[dcg9381]

I just ordered some insulated doors for my garage. I suppose in the summer here, wouldn't the doors trap the heat from the cars longer inside? Not sure what is worse.

An uninsulated south facing roll-up door is definitely worse in Texas. Way worse. Might be different elsewhere.

An uninsulated panel door can be insulated with a little form board and creativity.

My garage (insulated doors) has an "attic fan" on a thermostat. It'll trigger if we park hot cars in there and **** out the heat.. Better than nothing.