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Insulated roll up doors?

P Dubya

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
408
Location
Iowa
I will likely be building a partition wall in one of my buildings soon so I can heat/cool one side of it. I think the wall will be 16 feet tall and what I am looking for is the style like I have seen at Lowes etc... They roll up and stow just above the door opening. Has anyone had any of these installed? Good luck with them? any other options, ideas? Thanks!
 
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Toomanytools?

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Joined
Nov 4, 2010
Messages
855
Location
Washington
I have never seen an insulated one at least not much of an R value, at 16' the rolled door would be huge if insulated. If you are closing off one part of a shop from the other can you frame the opening down to say 10' height? Might have more options. I'm doing something similar I will frame down from 16' to about 10' and about 8' wide think I will do a sliding insulated barn type door.
 

driverinmyhead

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Joined
Nov 29, 2011
Messages
108
Location
PacNW
Never considered roll up doors...

I am getting ready to do a divider. In the planning stages, but leaning heavily towards 3-4 sliding sections.

Not ideal, but I will likely use rigid foam core (2" or thicker) with thin panel over it. Will hang them on the "Barn Door" type industrial roller style hangers. Panels will stack when open.

My situation is that one side of my shop is "Showroom" type storage of clean and nice stuff, the other side is a SHOP shop.
 

Kaizen

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Joined
Jan 9, 2015
Messages
6,949
Location
New England
I got a rollup door 9x8 at hd so I didn't have pay shipping. door was under 400. Not insulated though and has some big air gaps that you have to use a seal kit on. I'm adding a second outswing old time carriage door to the outside of mine which will insulate and air seal. I haven't seen an insulated roll up. I do love mine though. no tracks in the way and open and shut very easy.
 

ard

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Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
4,391
Location
Sierra Foothills... California
I have a 8x10W roll up on the end of a bay on my shop. It is insulated, but marginally. Two layers of foam and radiant barrier. Don't know the R value, but likely R2-4? Given that I am in a fairly mild environment, it works. Bigger issue is air. The edges are gasket end, but far from air-tight. With wind pressure on the outside, air will move throught the shop when any other door is opened.

I like the sliding door idea (wouldnt work for me given the geometry, plus opening and closing a roll up 1,2 3 times a day is easier.). A slider can be much better insulated AND can be gasket end better to control your air.

IMO
 

Hot Rod Grampa

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Joined
Jul 7, 2017
Messages
812
Location
Near Cooperstown New York
An insulated slat roll up can get pricey. Plus the air gap on top will always be an issue. A cheap sheet door will have bubble wrap on the inside and still the air gaps. If there is a way you can have high lift on a conventional door it would seal much better and still get up close to the ceiling. Hope this helps.
 
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ticklechicken

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Joined
Apr 25, 2016
Messages
110
Location
Florida
When I needed an insulated roll up door, I bought the 750 model from Roll Up Doors Direct. My shop is air conditioned and it seems that the door is doing a good job. I don't notice any extra heat near the door. When you opt for the insulation, you get seals for the sides and top.

I ordered it with the integrated opener and installed it myself. It was pretty easy. The drum comes preassembled and pre-tensioned. The motorized opener is nice because it sits inside the roller mechanism instead of being chain driven by an additional motor.
 
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P Dubya

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 30, 2010
Messages
408
Location
Iowa
Thanks for the replies.... A bit more information. I don't need to make the doors full height so with that said I guess I could frame the openings down to any size that would work...10' x 10' maybe? I plan on having a car lift at each door, one will be a drive on storage lift so that I can store one vehicle on the lift with another stored under it and the other one will be a 'working' lift.... I have also seen doors that angle only slightly away from the wall as they go up Any experience with the? Sliders may be my only option as I don't think I would have enough headroom to go angled/up....
 

MikeF

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Joined
Jan 3, 2008
Messages
164
An insulated slat roll up can get pricey. Plus the air gap on top will always be an issue. A cheap sheet door will have bubble wrap on the inside and still the air gaps. If there is a way you can have high lift on a conventional door it would seal much better and still get up close to the ceiling. Hope this helps.



We get them with a rubber or heavy canvas glad rivoted to the hood and header brush Tha gets installed just above the stops so the door seals when closed. Works out pretty good, don't waste money on the cheaper insulated doors where the "insulation" is held in by the endlocks. Get the good ones where they are filled with foam.
 

noddaz

New member
Joined
Sep 30, 2017
Messages
3
Location
Arnold
I have one! I don't remember how much extra it cost me. But I think it is worth it. And I will roll a similar question right back at you. On a door that big, why wouldn't you want an insulated door? Unless of course the area behind the door is not heated or cooled. BTW, I live in a moderate climate area. (Maryland)
 

brownbagg

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 20, 2006
Messages
5,208
i have seen people get the foam board that two sheets of wood with foam in between and cut to fit opening on outside, and on cold days, stick them in, kinda friction fitted. you can get them 4-6 thick
 
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