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Insulated screwdriver
- Thread starter 70staged
- Start date
rlitman
Well-known member
If the plastic looks fine, it probably is.
egfdevos
Well-known member
If they are undamaged then they are fine.
Probably fairly long, they aren't Acetate. I'd say grab a razor and cut (a little bit) the very end, if it cuts smooth, it's fine. If it chips, then it's changed it's physical properties and isn't safe for use. If there is any question, buy new. Saving $30-50 isn't worth risking injury.
rlitman
Well-known member
Probably fairly long, they aren't Acetate. I'd say grab a razor and cut (a little bit) the very end, if it cuts smooth, it's fine. If it chips, then it's changed it's physical properties and isn't safe for use. If there is any question, buy new. Saving $30-50 isn't worth risking injury.
I've never seen acetate insulation on the shank, but the Klein handles are acetate. I don't think that's an issue.
The problems I can imagine would be if the shank insulation (the only critically thin part) gets brittle, gummy, or gets covered in dirt to form a conductive layer.
seber
Well-known member
Years ago I needed a set of insulated drivers. I about had a heart attack when I saw the cost. I've been using a set of cheap rubber handled drivers with a tight fitting rubber tube over the shafts ever since. It works so well that when it came time to replace a few I bought Snap-ons and did the same to them.
Handyandy23
Well-known member
My work gives out Wera insulated screwdrivers, and the tips seem to get worn out long before the insulation does. I did see a few where the insulation at the tip was starting to break up, but maybe only the first couple millimeters.
^ "Making" your own is probably easy enough for your own use, but the "real" ones come with voltage ratings. I wouldn't want to be responsible for giving homemade ones to someone else, if something happened to them you'd be up the creek without a paddle.
^ "Making" your own is probably easy enough for your own use, but the "real" ones come with voltage ratings. I wouldn't want to be responsible for giving homemade ones to someone else, if something happened to them you'd be up the creek without a paddle.
BarryWells
Well-known member
I have a set of Wiha long. About $50 I think. Had them for years but I do electrical **** maybe once a month-6 weeks or so.I know some real electricians who have the same set for several years. That was the only reason I chose them
rlitman
Well-known member
Years ago I needed a set of insulated drivers. I about had a heart attack when I saw the cost. I've been using a set of cheap rubber handled drivers with a tight fitting rubber tube over the shafts ever since. It works so well that when it came time to replace a few I bought Snap-ons and did the same to them.
You must have a low tolerance for cost. How is $10?
https://www.harborfreight.com/electricians-screwdriver-set-7-pc-69075.html
These are actually VDE certified (which requires individual testing at 10x the rated voltage among other things).
Or how about $20 for some of the best I've ever used:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Insulated-Screwdriver-Set-3-Piece-48-22-2202/204069720
seber
Well-known member
You must have a low tolerance for cost. How is $10?
https://www.harborfreight.com/electricians-screwdriver-set-7-pc-69075.html
These are actually VDE certified (which requires individual testing at 10x the rated voltage among other things).
Or how about $20 for some of the best I've ever used:
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-Insulated-Screwdriver-Set-3-Piece-48-22-2202/204069720
That was around forty years ago and the price was over $100. Low tolerance my ***. That would be over $300 in today's economy.
RPH
Well-known member
I buy the Wiha set about every three years. Once the insulation on the shaft gets scraped up I purchase new. My life is worth more than the $50 for the set. The old set retires to the barn and the new ones travel with me on the road. I work on high voltage machines.
rlitman
Well-known member
That was around forty years ago and the price was over $100. Low tolerance my ***. That would be over $300 in today's economy.
Yeah, the Snap On ones are still up there in price.
rlitman
Well-known member
If you have a megger, or know someone with one, you can use it to confirm that your screwdriver(s) will still insulate the rated voltage.
Max
1000V screwdrivers are tested at 10kV. Do you have a 10kV megger? Not many go that high.
Also, the proper test requires dipping the handles in an electrolyte bath while testing for resistance. You could drop your megger ground in a tank of water (and add a little baking soda for conductivity), clip the probe to the screwdriver tip and dip till only 1/4" of insulation is left exposed to test.
I've never seen acetate insulation on the shank, but the Klein handles are acetate. I don't think that's an issue.
The problems I can imagine would be if the shank insulation (the only critically thin part) gets brittle, gummy, or gets covered in dirt to form a conductive layer.
Yead, if you look at the Kleins, the plastic shank piece also insulates the acetate. It may be an "Old Wives tale" but supposedly acetate will explode when a high current goes through it (and then you).
1000V screwdrivers are tested at 10kV. Do you have a 10kV megger? Not many go that high.
Also, the proper test requires dipping the handles in an electrolyte bath while testing for resistance. You could drop your megger ground in a tank of water (and add a little baking soda for conductivity), clip the probe to the screwdriver tip and dip till only 1/4" of insulation is left exposed to test.
Many meggers go up to 5 KV. 10 KV is rather high for a megger so I am not sure. ESD testers will go that high, but I’ve never priced one so they may be rather expensive.
My point was that a megger could be used as a quick test to give the OP some peace of mind. I wasn’t trying to say that he could certify his screwdrivers - much like few (if any of us at home) have torque wrenches calibrated to traceable NBS standards...
Max
Not looking for a new set.
Just didn’t know if there was a wear indicator or something. I deal with 3 phase 690 so just trying to be safe and know my tools.
Some of them do some of them don't depends on the brand. If the first layer wears down it will turn yellow. And a few of mine have three layers Orange then yellow and then red.
rlitman
Well-known member
Yead, if you look at the Kleins, the plastic shank piece also insulates the acetate. It may be an "Old Wives tale" but supposedly acetate will explode when a high current goes through it (and then you).
I never noticed (I never cared for the Klein, so I never owned one), but I see it now that you mention it. Interesting.
Many meggers go up to 5 KV. 10 KV is rather high for a megger so I am not sure. ESD testers will go that high, but I’ve never priced one so they may be rather expensive.
My point was that a megger could be used as a quick test to give the OP some peace of mind. I wasn’t trying to say that he could certify his screwdrivers - much like few (if any of us at home) have torque wrenches calibrated to traceable NBS standards...
Max
I don't disagree. My megger goes to 2500V. Above that, they get spendy.
My main point is that a megger dry testing insulating screwdrivers (or gloves or other safety gear) is a worthless test. It has to be done wet to be useful.
Some of them do some of them don't depends on the brand. If the first layer wears down it will turn yellow. And a few of mine have three layers Orange then yellow and then red.
Dipped insulating grips used to be done in alternating colors. I would absolutely not recommend dipped insulation for safety reasons though. The insulation is too soft and easily cut or torn. Real VDE certified tools (I have not seen VDE certification on anything dipped) has a hard insulating plastic that is molded.
On that note, the Milwaukee insulating screwdrivers (Chinese COO FYI) are the ONLY molded hard plastic VDE vertified screwdrivers ever to be done in two colors. There is yellow hiding underneath the red. Milwaukee calls it a selling point. I feel that I'm just as happy with my Wera insulated drivers that are red through and through, since the insulation is so darned tough that an under-layer would never be exposed anyway.
JRas
Well-known member
Years ago I needed a set of insulated drivers. I about had a heart attack when I saw the cost. I've been using a set of cheap rubber handled drivers with a tight fitting rubber tube over the shafts ever since. It works so well that when it came time to replace a few I bought Snap-ons and did the same to them.
They're like $20-$30... Klein, Ideal, Milwaukee, Wera, and Wiha.
My work gives out Wera insulated screwdrivers, and the tips seem to get worn out long before the insulation does. I did see a few where the insulation at the tip was starting to break up, but maybe only the first couple millimeters.
^ "Making" your own is probably easy enough for your own use, but the "real" ones come with voltage ratings. I wouldn't want to be responsible for giving homemade ones to someone else, if something happened to them you'd be up the creek without a paddle.
They're rated 1000V dipped in water etc? If you're taping stuff to insulate it, probably need to reevaluate your life choices..
I use Klein square and cabinet longs at work often, and Milwaukee makes a drive that is perfect for newer receptacle/switches. Very nice for changing out stuff live and ensuring tight connections.