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Insulating above the ceiling, adding a metal ceiling

Andybull

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Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
345
Location
NW, South Carolina
I have a metal building with wood framing. This building is 36’x84’x11’ high. Right now I have no ceiling and the only insulation below the metal roof is 1/4” of bubble insulation with a metallic radiant side. This was installed mainly to keep the metal from developing condensation. What’s the most efficient way to insulate the ceiling? I’ve considered having it foam sprayed. I’m thinking of adding a metal ceiling, either white in color, or mill finish.
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Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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6,948
Location
New England
Metal ceiling or drywall with blown in insulation to get r38 or so.


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skippydoo

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Joined
Oct 28, 2012
Messages
177
Location
Sussex NJ
I'm going with spray foam , closed cell , 2 to 4 inches , not sure yet up against the roof. I'm going to possible blow in insulation on top of the metal ceiling to get R 38 or better. Does anyone see anything wrong with what I'm thinking of doing? I want the foam so it tightens up the building and keeps air out, but don't want to go broke on the foam to get the overall R valve I want.
 

dave_dj1

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Feb 3, 2018
Messages
222
Location
Jackson, NY
If you do the angle part of the ceiling with blown in cellulose or fiberglass be sure and use prop r vent, you need to make sure air can flow up to the attic space and out either a ridge vent or a roof vent. If you spray foam disregard afore mentioned advice. If you do go with blown in, put the vent and metal on the slopes first, then blow in, then do the flat and blow in from above. Most places let you borrow the machine to blow cellulose if you buy a certain amount from them.
I can only dream of ever having a shop that big, congratulations :beer:
 

Kaizen

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Jan 9, 2015
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6,948
Location
New England
If you do the angle part of the ceiling with blown in cellulose or fiberglass be sure and use prop r vent, you need to make sure air can flow up to the attic space and out either a ridge vent or a roof vent. If you spray foam disregard afore mentioned advice. If you do go with blown in, put the vent and metal on the slopes first, then blow in, then do the flat and blow in from above. Most places let you borrow the machine to blow cellulose if you buy a certain amount from them.

I can only dream of ever having a shop that big, congratulations :beer:



Just saw r&r builders prep a garage for blown in. They used building wrap and a string instead of baffles. Not sure it’s worth the work but interesting technique. On YouTube


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stm317

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Aug 8, 2017
Messages
1,339
I would probably install a vapor barrier between the metal and the framing/insulation to keep any moisture from passing between them. And being scissor trusses, you may want to install somet blocking or something between trusses to keep the cellulose from settling and sliding down from the peak to the eaves.

They sell wide rolls or blankets of vinyl faced fiberglass that would be a breeze to install, but not sure how price competitive it is. I have a very similar building to yours and when I estimated insulation costs the cellulose was less than half the cost of the fiberglass blankets and had a higher r value too. You may find different pricing.
 
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Andybull

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Joined
Jun 8, 2012
Messages
345
Location
NW, South Carolina
I think I ‘m going to get some prices to have the rafters sprayed. I once called a fellow and he mentioned to me that he would have to cut out all of the bubble insulation that’s between the trusses and the metal roof, so the foam would stick to the metal.
I didn’t like that idea and have been procrastinating......but sweating.
 

8mpg

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Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
350
What are your goals? Little more comfort, heating/cooling? If you are going to heat and cool, Id say spray foam to air seal the building.

Those suggesting vapor barriers...its very dependent on location. Places like Texas where I live, we do not do vapor barriers. That is usually reserved for cold climates.
 

hake

Active member
Joined
Oct 5, 2009
Messages
34
I think I ‘m going to get some prices to have the rafters sprayed. I once called a fellow and he mentioned to me that he would have to cut out all of the bubble insulation that’s between the trusses and the metal roof, so the foam would stick to the metal.
I didn’t like that idea and have been procrastinating......but sweating.



What did you decide to do? I'm in almost the exact same situation.


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