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Insulating an already insulated garage

jonnyboy

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2025
Messages
10
So I just had a 30x60x14 post frame shop built. I had the builder install 2” vinyl back insulation between the metal exterior and the girts. I am regretting my decision and would like to add something with a higher R value but don’t want to run into an issue with the moisture barrier being on the wrong side (I am in southern Virginia so will be heating 4 or so months out of the year).

I feel like these are my options:

Add batts (faced)
Add batts unfaced (no vapor barrier since there’s technically one on the outside)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior and pierce/slash existing vinyl back insulation to prevent a double vapor barrier)

Any suggestions?
 
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jonnyboy

Member
Joined
Feb 16, 2025
Messages
10
For your area I think you're going to be unfaced and no plastic vapor barrier.
That’s what I leaned towards at first but worry that while heating would trap moisture in the walls. I thought about doing rock wool thinking it would be less susceptible to holding moisture if that did happen.
 
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racecougar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
5,168
Location
Missouri
So I just had a 30x60x14 post frame shop built. I had the builder install 2” vinyl back insulation between the metal exterior and the girts. I am regretting my decision and would like to add something with a higher R value but don’t want to run into an issue with the moisture barrier being on the wrong side (I am in southern Virginia so will be heating 4 or so months out of the year).

I feel like these are my options:

Add batts (faced)
Add batts unfaced (no vapor barrier since there’s technically one on the outside)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior and pierce/slash existing vinyl back insulation to prevent a double vapor barrier)

Any suggestions?
I'd go with door #4
 

mdg

New member
Joined
Jun 12, 2025
Messages
3
So I just had a 30x60x14 post frame shop built. I had the builder install 2” vinyl back insulation between the metal exterior and the girts. I am regretting my decision and would like to add something with a higher R value but don’t want to run into an issue with the moisture barrier being on the wrong side (I am in southern Virginia so will be heating 4 or so months out of the year).

I feel like these are my options:

Add batts (faced)
Add batts unfaced (no vapor barrier since there’s technically one on the outside)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior)
Add batts unfaced (plastic vapor barrier on interior and pierce/slash existing vinyl back insulation to prevent a double vapor barrier)

Any suggestions?

Just wondering what you ended up doing? I'm closing on a home with a 60 x 40 metal building with 16' ceiling height. It's stick built with 24 on center studs with vinyl backed insulation on walls and roof. It's in central Tennessee. I'd like to use the building year round and be semi comfortable with heating and cooling. Was thinking of putting up a metal ceiling with blown in cellulose and unfaced batts for the walls. From whatI understand, it's not the best idea to do closed cell foam over the vinyl. Pretty confused on what's the best way to go.
 

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