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Insulating and cooling a 20x24 detached workshop

RedTravis88

Member
Joined
Jan 29, 2020
Messages
8
Location
Pensacola, FL
I live in northwest Florida, and the summer heat is reminding me that I need a gameplan if I want to do any work in my workshop during the summers. So far it's broken down into a temporary plan due to finances, and then a longer term plan. But I still need some advice on a couple things.

It's a 20x24 detached workshop with 2x4 construction, ridge vent on the roof, 16" OC exposed wall studs, and a shingle roof (no ceiling). It has one uninsulated 10' overhead door, an insulated man door, and (currently) one jalousie window on the west side. There's a rough opening for a window on the south side which the previous owner boarded up and sided over. I plan on putting a window in there soon for some cross-ventilation with the overhead door on the north side.

My temporary plan consists of replacing both windows with double-hungs, and getting a used window AC unit on the cheap with a couple wall fans just to make it bearable in the summers. But more importantly, my long term plan is to insulate the walls, ceiling, and overhead door. Whenever plywood prices go down (hey, I did say long-term plan) I'll cover the walls with plywood, and eventually install a mini-split AC unit.

Here are my questions:
  1. From what I've read, most recommend rockwool insulation for the walls. Would I still have to use a vapor barrier, and would it go on after the insulation?
  2. It seems the best (simplest?) choice for roof/garage door insulation would be something like Rmax foam board. Any opinions on that?
  3. In this climate, and with the above insulation, would an 18k BTU unit be enough, or would it be better to save for a 24k unit?
 
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PoorUB

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 29, 2021
Messages
11,809
Location
Fargo, ND
A 9,000 BTU will be plenty, once you insulate. Until then it is anyone's guess what you will need.
 
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