Insulating Garage Door

[This2ShallPass]

Hello. I am looking into insulating my garage door, but the kits have a ridiculously low R value -- 4-8. Has anyone ever used anything else? I will be hiring a handyman to do it for me, so experience is not an issue. The walls and attic are all insulated -- I don't know the R number, but it appears to be the same as the house which retains its temperature very well --even without A/C it rarely goes much above mid 80s even in the hottest months.

This is one product I am considering: http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rmax-The...-Rigid-Foam-Insulation-Board-613010/100573703

Has anyone ever worked with that?

Also, what about just cutting and taping in regular roll insulation?

Cold is not a huge issue here (40s near Sacramento) but A/C is huge -- tho thankfully the garage faces NE -- we are in the 90s most of July and August. (Although it cools down at night, I will not be opening the garage door as we have bugs that will want to join us -- I will be putting a screen on the regular door though).

Would it make sense to put in a sheet of radiant barrier facing outwards, onto the door, prior to adding insulation? (One of the reviewers on HD website points out that this radiant barrier stuff is not energy star certified, so does that mean it's useless?)

I know that I will still need to add A/C but it would be nice if I could make do with just a portable heater. I absolutely cannot afford to spend $4000 on HVAC!!

Many thanks!

This2

 

[sublime68charger]

That should work fine.

On my old garage I used drop ceiling tiles I got for free and stuffed them in the garage door

Worked out great

How much flex does that stuff have my panels had a lip that held the stuff in for me?

I only hade to use duck tape to help hold in 2 of the sections

 

[DC73]

The polyiso product you linked to has the highest R value per inch of any of the foam boards. I wouldn't hesitate to use it. It's easy to work with. Get some aluminum foil tape to seal the joints.

For a radiant barrier to be most effective, it needs an air gap between the shiny side and the source of heat. You don't really have enough room for an air gap when insulating a garage door. You'd be better off with full insulation and no air gap. The polyiso board does have a reflective side. I would go ahead and put that reflective side toward the source of heat.

DC

 

[This2ShallPass]

Thanks so much! I did find this article comparing the three kinds of rigid foam insulation, if anyone is interested -- since I can't attach, here is the link to it: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/save-energy-rigid-foam-insulation.aspx

Thanks again!

This2

 

[Falcon67]

I used the 1/2 stuff on the doors here and it works fine. Beware that if you have a big door 2" foam will add weight and you'll gave to adjust the door lift.

 

[mx842]

That is some good stuff, I've been using it for years on different projects. I haven't used the thick stuff you posted much because it's hard to find in the stores around here but the 1/2" stuff you can find pretty much anywhere.

As DC 73 said above it does need an air space between the board and the heated area and an air space between two 1/2" pieces will increase the R rating by almost double of what it was to begin with.

I am still kicking my self in the seat of my pants for not putting it under my roofing and siding panels when I did my barn. It sure would have been easier than the way I am doing my roof insulation now of having to cut the pieces and sliding them between the 2X4's covering the exposed roofing medal. I plan on covering the exposed medal then going back with another layer the other way between the truss system rafters from the top of the ridge to the top plate all the way around. That wouldn't be enough if I was further north but around here it should be plenty for a work shop.

I just put on a small addition to the back of the building and I used one 1/2" layer under the medal on the sides and roof and it is day and night difference between the rest of the building where I have regular R13 in the walls.

 

[This2ShallPass]

Thanks again for the input!

Falcon67, I notice you put the shiny side facing in. I want to block exterior heat -- would you still do it in that direction?

OMG I would never have thought of having to adjust the door!! Thanks so much for bringing that to my attention!

Now to my total ignorance. When you say it needs an air space, what precisely does that mean for insulating a garage door, where I'm not going to wall it in and where the door has to remain operable please?

Again, thanks so much for all the input!

T2

 

[buzz4041]

I used 2 layers of R Matte 3/4" with the foil backing. Then I installed a very thick aluminum foil over it all to give me a spark rejection when grinding and such. It has made a world of difference as my shop has two 8 x 16 doors.

 

[This2ShallPass]

So did you end up with foil on both sides? Or just the interior?

I'm assuming you are somewhere that gets hot? How much does it help in the heat please? Do you have any kind of A/C system? May I ask what?

Many thanks, again!

T2

 

[buzz4041]

So did you end up with foil on both sides? Or just the interior?

I'm assuming you are somewhere that gets hot? How much does it help in the heat please? Do you have any kind of A/C system? May I ask what?

Many thanks, again!

T2

Yes I installed both layers foil out and then did my aluminum foil on interior. Gives approximately R value of 10 or so I guess. You can tell a huge differrnce in the shop in both summer and winter.
Yes again I live in south texas where it is hot as hell.
This April the shop will get a minisplit. I have been running a dehumidifier in the shop since the beginning to control rust. I will be putting in the Friedrich Breeze unit.

 

[This2ShallPass]

Ouch yes! You have a lot of humidity there I imagine. We are humid now, in the "winter" but not, thankfully, in the summer.

May I ask what you have been using for heat and cooling, prior to the mini=split. MS are just waaaay out of my price range for installation.

Many thanks!

T2

 

[Kogashuko]

I did closed and open cell foam in the room above my garage (in fact I wish I had done the garage with it.) I have considered taking the uninsulated door, taping the seams and hinges, and then spraying on about 2 inches of closed cell foam. Would have to adjust the spring but it might be worth it. I think I would also have to coat it for an ignition barrier which is something everyone in this thread should consider with the foam board as well. After all it is in a garage and between those and kitchens are most likely to have small fires start. Hell, I caught myself on fire one time in my living room using the butane soldering iron without the tip to braze 3.5mm bullet connectors to wires for a quad copter. Was only a brief flair up of some lint but I would have hated to dropped the little torch and had it hit some foam board.

 

[Coach James]

I used the 1/2 stuff on the doors here and it works fine. Beware that if you have a big door 2" foam will add weight and you'll gave to adjust the door lift.

How did you fasten the panels to the door?

Coach

 

[This2ShallPass]

I did closed and open cell foam in the room above my garage (in fact I wish I had done the garage with it.) I have considered taking the uninsulated door, taping the seams and hinges, and then spraying on about 2 inches of closed cell foam. QUOTE]

I know this isn't much help, but somewhere on the internet was an article saying that this doesn't work well.

Sounds like you are talking about disabling your door? You might need building permission to do that, depending on where you are -- here we can't do anything that changes the garage away from being parking/ into inhabitable space. Of course very few places are as strict as here.

Best

T2

 

[This2ShallPass]

How did you fasten the panels to the door?

Coach

I have been dreaming of this door ever since I saw the photo! The more you can tell me about putting it together (and obviously it holds up well) the better!

Many thanks!

T2

 

[Kogashuko]

I did closed and open cell foam in the room above my garage (in fact I wish I had done the garage with it.) I have considered taking the uninsulated door, taping the seams and hinges, and then spraying on about 2 inches of closed cell foam. QUOTE]

I know this isn't much help, but somewhere on the internet was an article saying that this doesn't work well.

Sounds like you are talking about disabling your door? You might need building permission to do that, depending on where you are -- here we can't do anything that changes the garage away from being parking/ into inhabitable space. Of course very few places are as strict as here.

Best

T2

No, you just cover the joints with tape so that you don't close the door off for good. Basically, you just spray in what would normally be inserted.

As far as permits, don't ever permit anything that goes into your house as an individual home owner. It is a form of government extortion and it is against your 5th amendment rights if they are going to use it to raise your property taxes (deprive you of live liberty, or property) so technically you don't have to.

I did pay a guy to do a job one time who pulled permits. I was fine with it because it was a professional job which added quite a bit of structural space to my home. One would only think the building inspector would be good to have. One day when he was not there the building inspector came by and let himself into my house and tooled around for 2 hours. I am not sure what he did because the cameras were only on the outside then. All I know is that I didn't let him in, the contractor didn't let him in, and no one was home. At the time I thought it was the contractor so I didn't go to my house, prone him out, or otherwise shoot him like I would have anyone else. I couldn't stress to him how bad this was later. He didn't think anything of it but that is because that is how they always did things. I obviously wouldn't have done anything had I known he was the building inspector. However, if my wife was home sick or something, called me, or the police, and said someone was in the house it would have been very bad. However, the first time (and only time) he goes into a house to perform an inspection and gets shot it is over. His family gets nothing. For that and other above reasons, as a home owner, doing small projects and I choose to keep what happens in my house my business.

 

[This2ShallPass]

LOL. Guess you're not a lawyer huh?

Failure to pull a permit can give an insurance company a reason to deny a claim on anything that caused damage and wasn't permitted -- such as electric! (Which is one reason I'm trying to get as much info as possible now, to do all electrical at once and be done with it!)

I had an inspector save my b*tt once too -- electrician had only done half the work and claimed it was all done. There are a good number of things I might not pull a permit for (carpentry for example) but electric I do.

So does your garage door now open and close or would you have to pull the tape off?

T2

 

[Black_Z28]

LOL. Guess you're not a lawyer huh?

Failure to pull a permit can give an insurance company a reason to deny a claim on anything that caused damage and wasn't permitted -- such as electric! (Which is one reason I'm trying to get as much info as possible now, to do all electrical at once and be done with it!)

I had an inspector save my b*tt once too -- electrician had only done half the work and claimed it was all done. There are a good number of things I might not pull a permit for (carpentry for example) but electric I do.

So does your garage door now open and close or would you have to pull the tape off?

T2

I have a hard time believing insurance companies know exactly what is and isn't done to a house when it's built.

With that in mind, I would think that it would be very hard to prove if something was added by you the current home owner, or someone else. Which would grandfather you by anything that the insurance would't cover.

Also, you're saying you pull a permit to add a new receptacle or replace one in your house?

I'm not a lawyer, but that's my understanding.

 

[buzz4041]

Ouch yes! You have a lot of humidity there I imagine. We are humid now, in the "winter" but not, thankfully, in the summer.

May I ask what you have been using for heat and cooling, prior to the mini=split. MS are just waaaay out of my price range for installation.

Many thanks!

T2

I have shop fans and ceiling fans and a towel to wipe the sweat from from eyes. haha Never needed heat just keep the door closed in winter and it is perfect.

 

[MushCreek]

Insurance companies have gotten really picky about claims. Most areas that require permits also keep records of what was permitted. I wouldn't put it past an insurance company to dig pretty deep to avoid paying a big claim.

Back on topic- Start by painting the outside of the door a light color like white. I rented space for a machine shop in FL, and the big overhead door facing WEST was painted DARK BROWN! Being a rental, I couldn't change the color of the door, and it was a roll-up, so there was no way to insulate it. I took sheets of foil covered foam, glued magnetic strips to it, and just stuck them on the inside of door. Not perfect, but at least that corner of the shop was inhabitable in the summer. It was easy to take them down when I needed to open the door.

 

[Notgrownup]

How did you fasten the panels to the door?

Coach

That is what I was wondering also....

 

[MushCreek]

If you're talking about the ones I used on the shop door, I glued strips of magnetic material to them, similar to the stuff magnetic truck signs are made of. The magnets stuck to the door frame, which was steel. They didn't have a real strong grip, but it was enough to hold them in place.

 

[Black_Z28]

Insurance companies have gotten really picky about claims. Most areas that require permits also keep records of what was permitted. I wouldn't put it past an insurance company to dig pretty deep to avoid paying a big claim.

I'm sure they do. But, as a home owner are you supposed to check local records when purchasing a house to make sure everything that required a permit had a permit and was also inspected?

 

[MushCreek]

It's probably not a bad idea, at least for big stuff. We once almost bought a house that had a roof leak problem. It turned out the the PO had poured a patio with no footer, and later added walls and a roof to it. The whole addition was sinking, which is why the roof was opening up.

I was surprised last year when we sold our house in FL, and we were required to upgrade some things that were original to the house, such as non-GFI outlets in the baths, kitchen, and garage, and we also had to have a hurricane-rated garage door installed. I would think that unless the insurance company is willing to come out and do their own inspection prior to insuring the house, then it's their own fault and responsibility if they insure an unsafe house, and it burns down. But they have much better lawyers than Joe Public, so don't expect to win. We were being sued once, and our insurance company tried to weasel out of it. We had to hire a lawyer to sue our own insurance company to pay, while our insurance company was defending us against the original lawsuit! Our lawyer later admitted that they worked the whole thing out- on the golf course! I've developed a deep dislike and mistrust of insurance companies (and lawyers) in general.

 

[Kogashuko]

That's why you need a good insurance company. I have heard of some coming out and requesting to do a site visit later. It happened to my father in law and they told him they needed to fix a cinderblock in the foundation he removed because it was cracked (I don't know why he would do that anyway) or they could cancel his insurance. They didn't fix it and since lost coverage. That was on him though and he was even allowed to fix it. Heck he probably could have put a foundation vent there and been fine.

There are way too many unpermitted and permitted improperly built houses out there. Codes change from year to year and city to city. Smaller insurance companies and odd claims will get challenged. Lawsuits might get you reviewed because they are expensive. However, even at the end of the day it is cheaper for them to just pay a claim than to fight it.

 

[Larson666]

Use liquid nail to attach the panels to the door no need to pay some handyman to install just pick up the desired panels and a calking gun maybe two tubes of liquid nail or some silicone and install maybe a roll of wide tape to hold panels while the liquid nail sets up. very easy DIY project that will take maybe a half hour to do if that.

Now for the fact that you mentioned a/c well panels will help both with cold and heat but will at same time do NOTHING !!! if your door is not sealed really well around the sides and bottom and top so make sure your weather striping around the doors frame and bottom of the door is in good shape. best of luck

 

[This2ShallPass]

FALCON67 -- there are a bunch of us hoping you'll answer the question of what you used and how you did it to attach the insulation. ???Please?

 

[OccupantRJ]

I have a hard time believing insurance companies know exactly what is and isn't done to a house when it's built.

With that in mind, I would think that it would be very hard to prove if something was added by you

Be aware that some building materials have production dates or date codes on them, such as plumbing piping and electrical wire. Kinda hard to deny you had anything to do with an addition or remodel when you have been in the house for 10 years and the date codes are 5 years old.

 

[drelldrell]

FALCON67 -- there are a bunch of us hoping you'll answer the question of what you used and how you did it to attach the insulation. ???Please?

I did the same thing on my garage door. Mine are essentially a friction fit. If you look at your door there is space in the vertical and horizontal channels. Cut the foam panel about 1/2" to 3/4" wider than the inside space/channel for each panel.

Then insert the panel by pushing it up into the top channel (the bottom of the foam panel should clear the bottom channel). Then push the foam panel left or right to get it in the side. It will be tight, but you can move it around to fit nicely in. Mine do not move.

Through trial and error, you will break a few first. It's easy one you get the cuts or clearances right.

 

[OccupantRJ]

I am thinking about insulating mine with foam board and then riveting white aluminum coil trim over the panels afterward for a more finished look. Afterwards, I will adjust spring tension to obtain proper balance. (hopefully)

 

[Notgrownup]

I am thinking about insulating mine with foam board and then riveting white aluminum coil trim over the panels afterward for a more finished look. Afterwards, I will adjust spring tension to obtain proper balance. (hopefully)

I like that idea....it would be clean

 

[black00lightning]

I'll be doing insulation on my garage doors soon. I'm looking for an insulation that has a white smooth finish, preferably some type of rigid board. Any thoughts?

 

[dw1]

I'll be doing insulation on my garage doors soon. I'm looking for an insulation that has a white smooth finish, preferably some type of rigid board. Any thoughts?

Post your findings, as I also am looking at insulating two garage doors. I got lucky and was able to take 2 doors, a 10x10 and a 12x10 down off a building that was being torn down, (Free) these are uninsulated.

 

[dw1]

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002FR5QO6/?tag=atomicindus08-20

I am just throwing this out for reference, as I'm looking for something durable, economical myself

 

[PushnFords]

Following for ideas....

 

[davidlee]

I bought a kit from Lowes for about $60.00 with free shipping. Styrofoam with a hard white plastic skin on one side. It cut and went up easy but one kit did not do a 9ft wide door as they said it would do. My doors have 10 panels and the kit comes with 8.