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Insulating garage doors

IONH

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Feb 12, 2010
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I have a pair of 8x7 foot (estimated) garage doors and they have no insulation on the inside. I've seen those kits at the big box stores and they want $30-50+ for insulation kits.

What makes these kits any different than just buying 4x8 sheets of foam board insulation and attaching them to the doors?

Also, how would I go about attaching them to the doors?.. adhesive, double sided tape, ?
 
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sixball

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Dec 4, 2009
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There is a post that shows the "kit" thats fairly recent. I prefer to just buy the 4 X 8 sheets for durabillity reasons, and I used the foil faced stuff and the reflective factor helped out in the garage.

I used 1 1/2 inch foil faced 4 X 8 sheets. I cut them just just abit oversized from the opening so I could flex it alittle to get it into the chanel. The self tapping screws that are in the door chanels bit into the foam and held it in place. But I used the foil tape over all the seams just as backup. Then I went ahead and used the foil face tape over the whole thing to give it a more uniform look and to not have the foam exposed for fire hazzard reasons.

I still have less $$ in the door than if I would have bought an insulated unit, and it's better insulated, plus I have a reflective door.

Sixball
 
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IONH

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Thanks for the tips Sixball. I'll have to take a look at my door to see if I have similar screws in the channels to hold the insulation board in place. Also, good idea on the foil kind to help reflect some extra light.
 
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IONH

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I looked at my doors today and noticed I do not have any self tapping screws along the braces like you described on yours. Suggestions otherwise?

Also, how did you handle it where the panels met? Obviously you couldn't use the braces across those as they need to flex when the door goes up.
 

zmandet

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Dec 1, 2010
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Hometown of General Motors
I went with the 4 x 8 sheets to insulate the door, and I fit the panels into the track as well, however instead of tape I used the expanding foam along the edges of the panels and once it set up it pretty well locked the panes in, I did this approximately 20 years ago and it has worked very well.
 

ITGuy11

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Oct 22, 2010
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I went with the 4 x 8 sheets to insulate the door, and I fit the panels into the track as well, however instead of tape I used the expanding foam along the edges of the panels and once it set up it pretty well locked the panes in, I did this approximately 20 years ago and it has worked very well.

I like this idea, cheap, easy, and effective!
 
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sixball

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Thanks!

I'll have to take a picture of the inside of my doors. The seams aren't at the cross rails but rather halfway in betwen. So securing insulation using them as stops won't work for me.

Yes, I'd like to see a pic of that. I saw your post/question on the other thread about not having the self tapping screws in yours. I also wouldn't recomend the liquid nails as adhesive, or atleast test the adhesive on a piece of the insualtion board you are planning on using. Sometimes it can eat/melt right thru it.

The foil faced tape will hold it in, as well as add alittle reflective quality to the job. But a pic of your door would help explain what your working with and maybe we could come up with some other options


Sixball
 
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IONH

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I was out there today setting up my band saw and even looked at the door, but the power went out for about 90 minutes. Finished setting up the band saw with flash lights but completely forgot about the door!

Anyway, as I mentioned, the seams are not where the braces are, however there hinges are at the seams. So I think I could use at least the thickness of the hinges for the thickness of the insulation board in the sections where there are seams.

I'll try to get a picture soon for you guys.

I agree Sixball about the liquid nails possibly eating through the insulation. Do you have any suggestions as an alternative?
 

csp

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Adhesives usually say on the label if they are safe for use with rigid foam. Read the label as I believe that liquid nails is safe for foam.
 
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