Kismetfarmer
Member
I am relatively new to this chat room but I have already enjoyed reading and benefitting from the feedback and knowledge that you guys and gals provide.
I recently completed a new workshop/pole barn rebuild on the site of the prior one that was destroyed in the “Doratio” storm on June 29, 2012. I am looking to insulate the workshop side and need to get your feedback and advice.
The pole building (located in southern MD) is a 60’ x 36’ gambrel roof structure with pine tongue and groove vertical siding nailed to the 2 x 4 purloins. The winters here are not very harsh. We can count on a few colds weeks with temps rarely going below 20 degrees. Average winter day highs are mostly in the upper 30’s or low 40’s.
I will use the workshop side mostly on weekends and only emergency repairs to equipment on weeknights.
There is no house wrap underneath the siding so the eventual shrinking of the siding will most likely produce some hairline cracks that wind blown rain may eventually work through. Air infiltration and moisture from the outside are a concern as well as condensation from the inside during the winter heating season.
Here is my plan, with the goal of reducing material and installation costs. Please tell me where I am going wrong.
• Stud the cavities between the posts with 2x4 walls, flush with the inside of the posts.
• Place double reflective bubble wrap on the exterior side of the stud walls prior to propping them in place. This will leave an air gap on both sides of the bubble wrap as recommended.
• ¾” rigid foam board nailed over the wall studs and posts to act as a thermal barrier.
• I already have enough ¾” tongue and groove pine to cover the interior walls directly over the foam board.
• I will use exposed conduit (that I already have) to deliver the electric circuits that I need.
I am not that concerned about getting R-bazillion in the interior walls. I’d like to reduce or eliminate air and possible water infiltration. I have a number of options for heating the building including propane, electric, kero, or even a wood or pellet stove.
Will this installation method provide an effective vapor barrier and thermal break?
Thanks in advance. Sorry this is so long. I didn’t have time to make it shorter.
I recently completed a new workshop/pole barn rebuild on the site of the prior one that was destroyed in the “Doratio” storm on June 29, 2012. I am looking to insulate the workshop side and need to get your feedback and advice.
The pole building (located in southern MD) is a 60’ x 36’ gambrel roof structure with pine tongue and groove vertical siding nailed to the 2 x 4 purloins. The winters here are not very harsh. We can count on a few colds weeks with temps rarely going below 20 degrees. Average winter day highs are mostly in the upper 30’s or low 40’s.
I will use the workshop side mostly on weekends and only emergency repairs to equipment on weeknights.
There is no house wrap underneath the siding so the eventual shrinking of the siding will most likely produce some hairline cracks that wind blown rain may eventually work through. Air infiltration and moisture from the outside are a concern as well as condensation from the inside during the winter heating season.
Here is my plan, with the goal of reducing material and installation costs. Please tell me where I am going wrong.
• Stud the cavities between the posts with 2x4 walls, flush with the inside of the posts.
• Place double reflective bubble wrap on the exterior side of the stud walls prior to propping them in place. This will leave an air gap on both sides of the bubble wrap as recommended.
• ¾” rigid foam board nailed over the wall studs and posts to act as a thermal barrier.
• I already have enough ¾” tongue and groove pine to cover the interior walls directly over the foam board.
• I will use exposed conduit (that I already have) to deliver the electric circuits that I need.
I am not that concerned about getting R-bazillion in the interior walls. I’d like to reduce or eliminate air and possible water infiltration. I have a number of options for heating the building including propane, electric, kero, or even a wood or pellet stove.
Will this installation method provide an effective vapor barrier and thermal break?
Thanks in advance. Sorry this is so long. I didn’t have time to make it shorter.