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Insulating Open Garage Ceiling

smdl

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Jul 2, 2007
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Location
Toronto, Ontario
Hi, folks.

First of all, apologies for the long first post! I have been a long-term lurker on this forum, visiting periodically to admire the amazing garages that so many have put together. However, I'm at the point where I want to make some significant changes to my garage, and would appreciate some advice in relation to insulation. I did try searching extensively, but so many factors seem to be application- or region-specific that I couldn't really get to the answer that I was seeking. Here's the background:

I have a reasonably good-sized attached garage (27' x 29'), and I like to do various restoration projects there. However, I am limited in what I can accomplish as a result of the long Ontario winters. The garage currently has an open ceiling with no insulation, and I would like to add some insulation to make the space usable in the winter. While I really appreciate the beautiful spaces others have created, this is really a practical upgrade for me, which is my way of saying that I don't really care what it looks like. I just want to do it the simplest/cheapest way possible, as I prefer to invest in what goes inside the garage rather than the environment itself.

The simplest way to insulate would be to install a ceiling, but I want to retain the height in the space for a soon-to-be-acquired lift. Also, I would prefer to avoid the cost of installing the ceiling, even though I recognize that there could be additional value, such as attic storage, etc. Again, I want to do this as simply and inexpensively as possible. I'm actually quite satisfied with the appearance of the unfinished garage -- the only reason I am doing this is to keep it reasonably warm in winter.

Now, to the issue and question: Given that I want to retain the open ceiling, it seems that I have two potential insulation options:

First, I could install a ridge vent in the roof, baffles between the rafters, and use batt insulation. Unfortunately the design of the roof creates angles that would result in trapped air in many places, as there is no clear path up to the peak. So, this doesn't seem to be a viable option.

Second option would be to use spray foam on the whole ceiling area, and batts on the walls with a vapor barrier. Here is where I hit my dilemma:

What makes the spray foam attractive is that the effort to do the work is less (even though I know spray foam is more costly). However, I am getting contradictory advice about whether or not the spray foam must be covered by drywall, which I realize might differ depending upon local building codes. If it must be drywalled, this adds significant cost/effort, and I might want to go back to considering installing a ceiling.

Talking to a few insulation contractors, some seem to feel that it is required in Ontario to drywall over spray foam as this is an attached garage, but others say that because this is a not a livable space, that it is not necessary. Has anyone here been through this, and confirmed whether or not drywall is required?

Final note is that I would like to heat the space to some extent (just so it is above freezing), and it seems that this might be a variable that impacts the situation. If there is a flame source in the space, it might need to be drywalled, but if not, them this might not be required. One said that if only electric heat was used, that this it would not be required.

Thanks in advance for any input/feedback!

Cheers,
Shaun
 
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smdl

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Joined
Jul 2, 2007
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Toronto, Ontario
Adding a couple of pictures:

080427%20Med_zpsyeonope8.jpg


080427%20001%20Med_zpsdunsaf40.jpg


Cheers,
Shaun
 

DC73

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Local codes might dictate drywall over the spray foam but I remember seeing a special coating that could be sprayed on the surface of the foam to meet fire codes. Can't remember any more details than that.

You might check GreenBuildingAdvisor for information. The Q&A forum there would be a good place to pose your question if you don't get a good response here. I would definitely check with them before you go with option 1. There are lots of variables for each climate that dictate what will work and what won't. Air permeable insulation in contact with the roof deck, even with vent baffles, requires careful attention to details.

DC
 

Dhagan887

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Dec 17, 2015
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They do make fire retardant paint. While not great looking, 2" styrofoam, or even cheaper, expanded polystyrene with taped joints would make a huge difference. Finding and stopping drafts goes a very long way towards making an area feel warmer as well
 
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smdl

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Toronto, Ontario
Thanks, Dhagan.

In doing some more searching, I think I have found the answer to my question on an industry website:

http://www.cufca.ca/commentary2.php

The protective paints have been accepted in the US as an ignition barrier (which Canada does not require). However, Canada does require a thermal barrier, which is described at either steel, or gypsum board.

Okay, back to looking at installing a ceiling. I can see some additional storage in my future! :thumbup:

Cheers,
Shaun
 

Leaflessshadetree

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Don't ask.
You should loose less than an inch in height by installing a ceiling. That and fiberglass bat or blown in insulation (or both) is probably going to be the cleanest and cheapest option.
 
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smdl

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Toronto, Ontario
Yep, sounds like a plan, thanks. I just hope that the angle of the roof will allow joists of sufficient size to support the full span, which is about 27'. Looking at various span calculators, some seem to indicate that it is possible with 2x12 with 16" OC, but others don't. I would really prefer not to have pillars in the garage!

Cheers,
Shaun
 

b4z

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Dec 31, 2008
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82
It seems like those are 2x6s and way overs panned. Am I seeing deflection? Or is that just the camera? But to answer your question, spray foam the roof deck using either closed cell or open cell and then put the drywall to your ceiling rafters, you will have what is called an unvented attic.(the area between the drywall and spray foam).
 

Tom17

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Whitby, Ontario
Off topic here (And my first post, hi!), but are you building a Se7en/Locost? I see that nose up there in your garage;)

It's a project I have been meaning to start for years. I'm also in the Toronto area btw.
 

lakeroadster

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Awesome place. Really looks nice, and nice touch on the downspout :thumbup:

The bowing of the lower chords, is that an optical illusion?

A non foam approach:

  • Install a ceiling everywhere except where you want to put the lift. Less ceiling height means less cu-ft to heat = more money saved for you long term.
  • To build a structure for the ceiling use 2x4's hung via joist hangers between the existing 2x lower chord's.
  • Use LP SmartSide panels , 3/8" thick, for the ceiling and then use fiberglass rolled insulation on top of the LP SmartSide panels. These panels will be lighter weight than drywall and much more durable. Also no taping, mudding or sanding.
  • Where the lift will go wall of this area off up in the rafters and insulate it with fiberglass batts. Insulate the rafter area the same manner used for the ceiling.

The other thing to consider is keeping things clean. Exposed rafters and other such roofing members will end up with dust, dirt and grime on them that will fall off. Having a ceiling allows you to take an air hose and easily blow down the shop, sweep it up, and have it be relatively clean to park the daily drivers in.

Hope that helps.

I am not a big fan of spray foam. It makes future repairs / replacement of panels / structure a real nightmare. Imagine needing to replace a piece of 4 x 8 roof sheathing a few years down the road after you sprayed the entire roof with foam.
 
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smdl

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It seems like those are 2x6s and way overs panned. Am I seeing deflection? Or is that just the camera? But to answer your question, spray foam the roof deck using either closed cell or open cell and then put the drywall to your ceiling rafters, you will have what is called an unvented attic.(the area between the drywall and spray foam).

Yes, it's part of my plan to address this. There are currently no real joists there, just these few 2x6s stretched across to support just the garage door openers. They have sagged over the years (they were that way when I moved in), but they aren't holding very much weight. The structure of the roof is supported by the collar ties located further up. Installing proper joist for a ceiling/attic will fix this, too.

Having an open ceiling would be nice, but the effort it would take to drywall the entire upper area puts me off. I think I would rather put the ceiling in, and gain the storage up above in an unfinished, unheated attic.

Thanks,
Shaun
 
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smdl

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Messages
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Location
Toronto, Ontario
Off topic here (And my first post, hi!), but are you building a Se7en/Locost? I see that nose up there in your garage;)

It's a project I have been meaning to start for years. I'm also in the Toronto area btw.

Hi, Tom.

Yes, I actually started that build about 10 years ago, and got quite a lot done, but then relocated across country from Vancouver. With private insurance in Ontario, it can be a challenge getting insurance for these cars if you don't use a single donor and then insure that. So, it's still there, and I might get back to it at some point, but I have been focusing on other things, in the meantime.

Hope you get to start your project!

Cheers,
Shaun
 

D45

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Those ceiling joist are 2x8s?...........and they still sagged that much

Probably because there isn't any wood connecting the joists to the rafters
 
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smdl

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Messages
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Awesome place. Really looks nice, and nice touch on the downspout :thumbup:

The bowing of the lower chords, is that an optical illusion?

A non foam approach:

  • Install a ceiling everywhere except where you want to put the lift. Less ceiling height means less cu-ft to heat = more money saved for you long term.
  • To build a structure for the ceiling use 2x4's hung via joist hangers between the existing 2x lower chord's.
  • Use LP SmartSide panels , 3/8" thick, for the ceiling and then use fiberglass rolled insulation on top of the LP SmartSide panels. These panels will be lighter weight than drywall and much more durable. Also no taping, mudding or sanding.
  • Where the lift will go wall of this area off up in the rafters and insulate it with fiberglass batts. Insulate the rafter area the same manner used for the ceiling.

The other thing to consider is keeping things clean. Exposed rafters and other such roofing members will end up with dust, dirt and grime on them that will fall off. Having a ceiling allows you to take an air hose and easily blow down the shop, sweep it up, and have it be relatively clean to park the daily drivers in.

Hope that helps.

I am not a big fan of spray foam. It makes future repairs / replacement of panels / structure a real nightmare. Imagine needing to replace a piece of 4 x 8 roof sheathing a few years down the road after you sprayed the entire roof with foam.

Thanks, John. It's an average home with a nicely-sized garage, in a decent neighbourhood, so we can't complain. I can't take credit for the downspout, as it was there when we moved in. Not sure what they were thinking, but it seems to work, so I leave it. :dunno:


I wish the bowing of the lower chords was an optical illusion, but it's not. It has been that way for many years, and they don't really support much weight, but I still want to address it.

Thanks for the great suggestions on how to finish the interior. Vey insightful, as you have obviously considered what I had said my priorities were, and recommended based upon that.

I can see that the hangers for the joists makes good sense, but wonder about the using 2x4s. I suppose that would probably work just to support the ceiling (especially with the light panels recommended), but maybe I could go larger, and gain the ability to store some stuff above the ceiling. I'm certainly no expert on construction (better with mechanical!), so will probably have someone else do the work, and will properly research.

I had been thinking about how best to provide more height for the lift without leaving everything open up there, and I think your suggestion is a good one. If I create kind of a raised box where the lift will go, that will give me the best of both worlds.

Interesting idea of the SmartSide panels. It wouldn't look quite as finished as drywall, and wouldn't offer the same fire protection, but there is nothing there now, so I am not losing anything. Would certainly be much easier and lighter, as you say, with less weight for the ceiling to support.

Definitely agree on keeping things clean. That will be a real benefit. I also think I will segment some parts of the garage using some sort of plastic curtains that can be drawn. I want to have dirty area where my blasting cabinet, grinders, polishers and parts cleaner are in order to keep that mess contained. I also want to have another area that I can close off when doing body work. Having a ceiling will make this much easier to do!

Thanks again.

Shaun
 
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smdl

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Those ceiling joist are 2x8s?...........and they still sagged that much

Probably because there isn't any wood connecting the joists to the rafters

Sorry, typo on my part (corrected above). These are 2x6's, and they are spanning about 27'. Although they are not really structural, it's still not ideal.

I will say, looking at this again in person, that there is some optical illusion there. They are sagging, but this is certainly exaggerated by the camera (I think they call it a barrelling effect). Not that bad, but still needs to be addressed.

Thanks,
Shaun
 
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lakeroadster

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I can see that the hangers for the joists makes good sense, but wonder about the using 2x4s. I suppose that would probably work just to support the ceiling (especially with the light panels recommended), but maybe I could go larger, and gain the ability to store some stuff above the ceiling. I'm certainly no expert on construction (better with mechanical!), so will probably have someone else do the work, and will properly research.

Attic storage would be a plus, but getting somebody to engineer a truss would be prudent, even if you just use 2x4's for the ceiling purlin supports. I am thinking you could add some web materials to tie the rafters to the bottom chord, basically creating a truss from the existing structure.
 
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smdl

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Attic storage would be a plus, but getting somebody to engineer a truss would be prudent, even if you just use 2x4's for the ceiling purlin supports. I am thinking you could add some web materials to tie the rafters to the bottom chord, basically creating a truss from the existing structure.

Makes sense.

Thanks, again.

Shaun
 

lakeroadster

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That's crazy, especially without any vertical support to the rafters

Not really all that crazy... If you think about the design they are in tension, there to keep the walls from spreading due to the rafters pushing the walls outward. The loading actually will help to keep them from sagging.

But putting any weight on them as is would be a scary endeavour for sure.
 
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D45

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I thought my 2x6s spanning 15' was alot

However, mine have 2x4s for bracing and support
 

lakeroadster

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I guess the thing to take away from this discussion is on a permitted building the roof, and it's supporting structures, is an "engineered" system.

So we, as the owners of the buildings that have these engineered systems, need to understand how it works, or find someone that does, BEFORE any changes are made.

To do otherwise may prove to be a fool's errand :thumbup:
 
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