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Insulation and HVAC comiplete (mini split) w/PICS

Redshift

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Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
I finally got my garage insulated and the mini split installed. I went with R-15 in the three 2x4 walls, R-19 in the 2x6 wall, and R-30 high density in the rafters and ceiling. Fire caulk and penetrations all done properly. Cost installed was around $1100 for everything.

I also bought a Shinco 18,000 BTU mini split heat pump to install. After installation costs and tax credits it should be around $1K even for that unit.

The interior is now not only quiet but comfortable. The mini split is very quiet as well. Heats great - but the heat stays up at the top of the 13 foot ceiling and takes time to circulate. I may need to investigate some fans.

Some pics:

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787B

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Sep 16, 2010
Messages
294
Location
Baltimore, MD
Very nice! That's a nice garage to play in.

A couple big (52"+) ceiling fans will help distribute that heat and not cost very much. They don't have to be fancy, just make sure they actually move air and are quiet. All ceiling fans are not created equal and sometimes more-expensive doesn't mean better. I have a cheap no-name that moves air as well as a Casablanca completely silently.
 
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Redshift

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Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
looked like fun to get the condencer there

No kidding! It's only 22-23 feet up. We had a specially made bracket with pulley that fits over a ladder rung, then used an electric hoist to lift it up into place. Took a long time. After that everything was simple.

Very nice! That's a nice garage to play in.

A couple big (52"+) ceiling fans will help distribute that heat and not cost very much. They don't have to be fancy, just make sure they actually move air and are quiet. All ceiling fans are not created equal and sometimes more-expensive doesn't mean better. I have a cheap no-name that moves air as well as a Casablanca completely silently.

Love your sig - I void warranties. Haha!

Fans, yup, agree on that. Put some 42" decorative fans on my screened porch last year that sucked. From then I learned to shop by CFM first, design second!
 

keweenawbee

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
76
Location
MN,MI
It never occurred to me to extend the overhead door rails upward to provide maximum ceiling clearance when the doors are in the open position. Did you add side rail extensions at the bottom or did you custom order them that way?
 

keweenawbee

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Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Messages
76
Location
MN,MI
Also if I were to rough in a conduit for the mini-split refrigerate lines would you think a 2" pvc would be sufficient? If so do you think they would pull/fish thru a sweep 90 or would I have to have a LB type box for the change of direction? BTW your garage looks great.
 
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Jackfre

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Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
For a place that size you may need fans but can't you program the vertical damper on the evaporator to blow down to keep the air mixed up. Is the Shinco an inverter unit? I represent Fujitsu in my day job. It will be a ball cleaning that condensing unit coil in the future, but where it is, it shouldn't need cleaning to often...you hope!:)
 

HoosierBuddy

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Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
2,915
Location
Southern Indiana
Very nice. That's the way to do it. Plan from the very beginning of the project how you are going to 1st insulate and then heat and cool the area rather than throwing up a building and try to add it later.

Question: Why is the outdoor unit there? Are you limited to how far the away it can sit? Would it be possible to use a similar unit and put the condenser closer to ground level or hide it around a corner?

Curious!

Phil
 
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Redshift

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Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
It never occurred to me to extend the overhead door rails upward to provide maximum ceiling clearance when the doors are in the open position. Did you add side rail extensions at the bottom or did you custom order them that way?

I custom ordered them that way. The extra extension added a total of $225 to my parts and labor cost. Not too bad, but adds way more than $225 worth of usefulness to my shop over the next 20-30 years.

Also if I were to rough in a conduit for the mini-split refrigerate lines would you think a 2" pvc would be sufficient? If so do you think they would pull/fish thru a sweep 90 or would I have to have a LB type box for the change of direction? BTW your garage looks great.

No, I would think a 3.5" would be the minimum. We had to drill an actual 3" hole in the siding to get the lines out, and that was with a direct shot. If you are adding any sort of bends, even sweeps, I would add another 0.5" to 1.0" at least.

For a place that size you may need fans but can't you program the vertical damper on the evaporator to blow down to keep the air mixed up. Is the Shinco an inverter unit? I represent Fujitsu in my day job. It will be a ball cleaning that condensing unit coil in the future, but where it is, it shouldn't need cleaning to often...you hope!:)

Yes, it's a Shinco inverter. The price was very attractive and roughly half of all other major brands. Compressor warranty is 5 years, equivalent to the others, so I figure if it takes a dump, I can still buy another whole unit and be about where I would have been if I bought a major brand to begin with. I hope the retailer who sold it to me is correct in saying that they're quite reliable.


Question: Why is the outdoor unit there? Are you limited to how far the away it can sit? Would it be possible to use a similar unit and put the condenser closer to ground level or hide it around a corner?


Common question; I should have answered it in my post.

The garage is built on a suspended slab, meaning there is a fully open basement underneath it. To get any sort of hole drilled into that slab costs a minimum of $200, and then to get another hole drilled to the outside through the basement walls (the basement is 4 sides concrete) is another $200-300. Therefore, my plan was to somehow place the outside unit in an inconspicuous location so that you could not see it or hear it from my pool (which is very close to the garage) and that would not require having a huge lineset (would have added another $150+ to installation costs) or having to drill expensive holes. In other words, because it would have been ugly and/or expensive to do. This was the cheapest absolute way and actually works perfectly. The extra $100 (or less, haven't gotten the invoice yet) for my HVAC guy to get it up there was well worth saving hundreds more on everything else and having nasty holes in my shop floor.
 

HoosierBuddy

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Joined
May 9, 2006
Messages
2,915
Location
Southern Indiana
I found this pic that answers my question. Looks like the unit will be hidden by the nearby trees.

950635259_5zXTR-XL.jpg


Basement under the garage, eh? COOL!

Phil
 

Jackfre

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Joined
Dec 26, 2010
Messages
4,406
Location
N CA
This morning I took only a quick look at the pictures. Closer inspection prompts the question. Does this manuf have a minimum line set requirement? For instance for the 9,12 & 15kbtu units we have a minimum of 9' for the 18's and above it is 15'. You can slug the compressor which will lead to short lived comp. It's worth a look:thumbup:
 
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Redshift

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Aug 4, 2010
Messages
105
This morning I took only a quick look at the pictures. Closer inspection prompts the question. Does this manuf have a minimum line set requirement? For instance for the 9,12 & 15kbtu units we have a minimum of 9' for the 18's and above it is 15'. You can slug the compressor which will lead to short lived comp. It's worth a look:thumbup:

I thought I had checked that, but will ask again. Thanks :)
 
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