Insulation Batting Question for Pole Barn

[78C-10]

Hello everyone, I have a quick question about fiberglass insulation for my pole barn in northern Illinois. I have decided that I will bookshelf additional 2x6's on 24" centers and install fiberglass batts. I think I will go with kraft faced insualtion, anyways my question is do I go the full 6" or 6 1/4" deep with the insulation? Is it ok if the fiberglass touches the inside of the steel siding? Or do I go with a thinner insulation. I am worried about any condensation that may form coming in contact with the fiberglass. Thank you for any information.

 

[Highbeam]

I have inquired also and found nothing but fear about FG touching the metal. Water formation has never actually happened to anybody. Lots of companies install Insulation directly touching the metal so I wouldn't worry about it a bit.

If your metal was a source of water then the lumber would be rotten long before the FG.

For other reasons, I installed a housewrap under my metal siding which is only a vapor retarder but if you are really worried about it, you can always install the housewrap at this time.

I'm sticking between my posts using more conventional framing methods for the sake of sheetrock, wiring, and hanging cabinets.

 

[78C-10]

Highbeam, your shop looks good, are your trusses eight feet on center? Mine are and I was thinking of framing them like it looks like you have. I was wondering if the joists would handle the extra load of lumber up there. I thought about framing the way you are and I may still go that way but I thought I could start bookshelfing and insulating now and leave the bottom floor board and batt off since I don't have concrete yet. I can only go as I get the money anyways.

I also figured there would be less lumber to buy going the bookshelfing way. I am planning a ten foot ceiling with the boards on 24" centers, only six boards vs. eight boards if framing vertically, I know two boards less is not that big of a deal. Although I think the verical framing will stiffen up the walls a bit. I am thinking of the metal panels for my interior walls. Still thinking and after seeing your framing method I may go that route but I will have to wait for concrete.

 

[DekeT]

Hello everyone, I have a quick question about fiberglass insulation for my pole barn in northern Illinois. I have decided that I will bookshelf additional 2x6's on 24" centers and install fiberglass batts. I think I will go with kraft faced insualtion, anyways my question is do I go the full 6" or 6 1/4" deep with the insulation? Is it ok if the fiberglass touches the inside of the steel siding? Or do I go with a thinner insulation. I am worried about any condensation that may form coming in contact with the fiberglass. Thank you for any information.

While I had enough depth for 2 x 6s, I used 2 x 4 studs and just stuffed 6 inch insulation to fill the space behind.

 

[Highbeam]

Highbeam, your shop looks good, are your trusses eight feet on center? Mine are and I was thinking of framing them like it looks like you have. I was wondering if the joists would handle the extra load of lumber up there. I thought about framing the way you are and I may still go that way but I thought I could start bookshelfing and insulating now and leave the bottom floor board and batt off since I don't have concrete yet. I can only go as I get the money anyways.

I also figured there would be less lumber to buy going the bookshelfing way. I am planning a ten foot ceiling with the boards on 24" centers, only six boards vs. eight boards if framing vertically, I know two boards less is not that big of a deal. Although I think the verical framing will stiffen up the walls a bit. I am thinking of the metal panels for my interior walls. Still thinking and after seeing your framing method I may go that route but I will have to wait for concrete.

My trusses are 12 feet apart, well, the poles are 12' OC so the trusses are just under 12' apart. I made sure to verify that the trusses were designed for a 10 lb per SF dead load on the bottom chord. All that lumber, plus sheetrock and insulation is less than 5# per SF so I'm good. I actually plan to use metal on the ceiling due to ease of installation compared to sheetrock at the 14' ceiling height. I don't even want to think about jacking, screwing, mudding, taping, sanding, and painting at that altitude. The metal is only a little bit more expensive, lightweight, glossy, and not as moisture sensitive. Pole barns move a little bit in the wind and I worry that the very heavy ceiling and a little sway at the ceiling would make the wall/ceiling joint crack so a metal lid would prevent that.

I figured that conventional framing the walls the way I did cost an extra 60 bucks bucks per 12 foot bay. $130 vs. $70 for just nailing interior girts to the post faces. I get a stouter wall with conventional wiring, sheeting, insulation, and future remodeling. I can add shelves, light fixtures, or cabinets and I know the framing is adequate. Plus I don't lose any interior space to face mounted girts which would have been quick and easy.

Those fully framed walls are pretty heavy to tip up. I did it myself.