Insulation conundrum

[foxracing254]

Hey all, I've done some searching and as far as I can tell this specific issue hasn't been covered, so forgive me if it has and redirect my post, please and thanks! I'm looking to insulate the ceiling in my 24x32 pole barn. Got the walls framed and done with R19, and I'm looking to add R38 to the ceiling. Trouble is, the guy that built it (who owned the house before me) was super cheap and I'm guessing he saved some money on one truss because my trusses are 5'4" OC. Never seen that before in my life. I'm also somewhat cheap and trying to stay away from spray foam or blown in and go with batts, but I obviously need 16" OC support. My current plan is to run 12ft 2x4s across and join them in the middle with plates, and every 4th "joist" will end up on an actual truss. Is this insane? Am I overthinking this? Thanks for any and all suggestions, carpentry is definitely not my strong suit but a few good woodworkers I know have agreed that this would work.

 

[billconner]

I'm looking at a pole barn with trusses 12' on center so 5'4" isn't much. No chance of a ceiling and blown in on top of it?

Im not sure but the 2x4s you plan - are they at the truss bottom chord elevation - straight across top of walls? 24'? Won't work - sag a lot.

First you have to find out if trusses are designed for the loads you're adding. If they are, I still think ceiling with blown in is less expensive easier and better. If you still want batts, consider 2x4s 2' on center perpendicular to trusses and 2' batts. they could be under, between, or over the lower chords.

 

[foxracing254]

A ceiling with blown in or even batts on top would be ideal. The problem would be supporting the plywood as the trusses are too far apart to put up a 4' sheet. I would have to do custom cut tin, which would definitely add cost.

I considered running the 2x4s perpendicular like you suggested, but my concern there is weight like you said. I'm in upstate NY so snow load is something to consider, and with the trusses being further apart I want to add as little weight as possible. My plan was to add the 2x4s at the truss bottom chord elevation, so the weight would be applied to the header plate and posts, but like you said sag is my biggest concern.

Is there some sort of calculator for finding the load rating of the trusses by measurements? Or would I need an engineer to come in and do that?

 

[Bert_]

Forget plywood. There are types of metal roofing that will span that far easily and support insulation on top. It's the cheapest way when you figure all the extra lumber and labor to add extra support.

 

[foxracing254]

Forget plywood. There are types of metal roofing that will span that far easily and support insulation on top. It's the cheapest way when you figure all the extra lumber and labor to add extra support.

I figured that was probably going to be my best option. Any certain gauge thickness I need to look for? R38 is pretty thick and I don't want to have to worry about sag at all ever.

 

[billconner]

For trusses, best would be to find who made them and ask. There likely was a drawing once that showed this. Hard to reverse engineer. If a problem, you could span with TJIs and support ceiling indepentdent of trusses.

Is upstate north of Thruway? I'm on the Seaway.

 

[Tbender78]

I think the cheapest option would be a metal ceiling with blow in insulation on top. They do make a thinner gauge for ceilings. You could blow in a lot more insulation for a higher R value.

 

[Skooterj]

At least one of the trusses should be stamped with the manufacturers info. I would call them and find out the bottom cord rating. IF they are rated to support the weight, I would hang 2x6's from joist hanger saddles every 2 feet to create a frame perpendicular to the trusses to attach 5/8th drywall. Then blow in or roll in insulation.

 

[Bert_]

I figured that was probably going to be my best option. Any certain gauge thickness I need to look for? R38 is pretty thick and I don't want to have to worry about sag at all ever.

Don't get the standard panel, it's only made to go about 4'. Talk to your metal supplier. There are panels with deeper ribs that can span the distance

 

[rebelranger]

1. Ensure your trusses are engineered for bottom chord dead load... for lights alone technically need at least 5lb/ft². For tin and insulation you really should seek 10 lb/ft².
Tin and insulation with 0 or 5 lb/ft² bottom chord dead load has been done many times but it's not advisable and could Land you in insurance trouble if the ceiling caves on a visitor.

2. Blown in insulation weights less then Batts and is cheaper...especially as diy. Go blown in cellouse.

 

[nadogail]

Time to start saving newspapers and look for a hammer mill so you can DIY your own insulation with a Borric Acid additive.

 

[My Old Tools]

Just use metal strapping.....

 

[foxracing254]

Thanks for the awesome replies, guys. Going to call the local Amish metal supplier today and get a price, and rent an insulation blower shortly thereafter.

 

[bradpac]

Thanks for the awesome replies, guys. Going to call the local Amish metal supplier today and get a price, and rent an insulation blower shortly thereafter.

Some 26ga R Panel should span your 5'-4" between trusses and hold up insulation without an issue.

You should be able to get vinyl back insulation in 5'-4" widths and put it up with strapping like MOT mentioned as well, but I would think the metal panels and blown in insulation would end up being a better end product and easier to install, although more expensive.

 

[foxracing254]

Some 26ga R Panel should span your 5'-4" between trusses and hold up insulation without an issue.

You should be able to get vinyl back insulation in 5'-4" widths and put it up with strapping like MOT mentioned as well, but I would think the metal panels and blown in insulation would end up being a better end product and easier to install, although more expensive.

The blown in doesn't look too bad at all price-wise, and for a little extra I think the tin will be the best bet. Father-in-law did his shed exterior 2 years ago and the price from those guys was $2.28/linear foot which works out to be a little over $500 to do my whole ceiling. I'm sure it's gone up by now, but going through Lowes or Menards was going to cost me closer to $1,600. Definitely going that route but it's good to know 26ga will be enough.