R'Addiction
Well-known member
Who uses what? I hear that these buildings sweat. Any suggestions?
Insulation for a metal sided /roofed pole barn?
- Thread starter R'Addiction
- Start date
JeremiahTRD
Well-known member
I am biased as I own a spray foam insulation company. That being said the only way to go is closed cell polyurethane foam.The foam is sprayed in a liquid form which allows it to get into all the gaps and cracks as well as behind the purlins and into the metal channels themselves, expanding to fill those areas. Polyurethane foams are also an excellent adhesive. In other words it will glue itself to the metal (think gorilla glue). You don't have to worry about this stuff delaminating or breaking down. It will also greatly increase the racking strength of the building, gluing everything together. It is a vapor retarder (basically a water resistant material) So you can spray a garden hose on it and it won't hurt it. It will also make the building much quieter, especially when it's raining. It is also very durable.You can punch it and it will not dent. Well I can't get any dents haha.
It is also the most expensive type of insulation, but it will not take very much to prevent condensation about 1 inch will do the trick. However if your wanting to heat and/or cool it I would suggest going to 2 inches for the walls and 3 inches for the ceiling.
Our going rate for an 1 inch of closed cell is around $1.25 a sq. ft. I'm betting it's more where you are.
Jeremiah
It is also the most expensive type of insulation, but it will not take very much to prevent condensation about 1 inch will do the trick. However if your wanting to heat and/or cool it I would suggest going to 2 inches for the walls and 3 inches for the ceiling.
Our going rate for an 1 inch of closed cell is around $1.25 a sq. ft. I'm betting it's more where you are.
Jeremiah
http://metalbuildinginsulation.com/insulation-options.html
I have used the above on two buildings. The 2" stuff. I am pleased with it but it has to go on when the building is built as it sandwiches between the metal and purlins.
lg
no neat sig line
I have used the above on two buildings. The 2" stuff. I am pleased with it but it has to go on when the building is built as it sandwiches between the metal and purlins.
lg
no neat sig line
After lots of research on here.
For my new pioneer pole building I contacted the closest morton building contractor and they will sell me the stuff they use for the walls.8ft wide by 40ft by 6" rolls of unfaced bound fiberglass insulation.Someone else on here also did the same thing.Why frame out the walls,that defeats the whole purpose of a pole building.Then full poly barrier,then metal on walls and ceiling,then blown in insulation in the ceiling from the local HC.
From what I've read this should work pretty good.
Sweating will come from hot air inside your shop contacting the cold metal.
Heres a pic of the guy that used the Morton stuff,dont remember the thread though.
For my new pioneer pole building I contacted the closest morton building contractor and they will sell me the stuff they use for the walls.8ft wide by 40ft by 6" rolls of unfaced bound fiberglass insulation.Someone else on here also did the same thing.Why frame out the walls,that defeats the whole purpose of a pole building.Then full poly barrier,then metal on walls and ceiling,then blown in insulation in the ceiling from the local HC.
From what I've read this should work pretty good.
Sweating will come from hot air inside your shop contacting the cold metal.
Heres a pic of the guy that used the Morton stuff,dont remember the thread though.
Attachments
Last edited:
REPO
Well-known member
What would that roll of insulation cost?
NWOhioChevyGuy
Well-known member
Larry G: I am planning to use what you did when I move a 30-40 this next year. Did you find any better / cheaper sources than another?
If your asking me, about $200.00 a roll.