Insulation for Walls 1000Sq Ft Retirement

[karoc]

It’s time for me start looking for insulation for my 2x6 walls. My preference is Rockwool COMFORTBATT s R23. But looking at Lowe’s website it’s at 86.00 mark OUCH! St HD the pink stuff R19 is 100.00 but buy 15 or more puts it at 85.00
I’m not up on what’s out there now days, but at 85.00 bag I don’t want to make mistake on selection. Any kind of input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

 

[CraigStu]

I used Rockwool Comfortbatt to fix some insulation in a 2x6 outside all in my basement. I think the builder ran out what he was using and threw in some scrap for the last three 16" sections. Decades ago I got into a horrible itching problem after using some fiberglass so I won't even touch the stuff. The Rockwool was really nice to work with. It is vacuum packed in the plastic and expands quite a bit when you cut the bag. Once it settles out, it is a quite firm piece of insulation. Kind of 1/2 way between foam panel and fiberglass. And it doesn't shed small tufts like fiberglass does. I would use it again in a heartbeat.

 

[mike93lx]

I love rockwool, but pricing has gotten stupid.

I think I'd be hard pressed to spend the premium over fiberglass, especially in a mild climate and on a budget

 

[karoc]

Figuring about 1200 sq ft which includes 3 door opening and 4 window opening. About 35 bags, give or take little.
Pink stuff is about 60.00 bag, still both are at crazy price

 

[theoldwizard1]

Mineral wool (Rockwool) and fiberglass (batts, rolls, faced or unfaced) have about the same R value per inch. R30 Rockwool is for 8" walls. Compressing it to fit in a 6" will give you about R23.

The big "win" of mineral wool is in noise reduction !

Ceiling insulation is THE MOST IMPORTANT ! If you are going to put 6" in the walls, you should have a minimum of 12" above your head. More is better ! Don't forget to ventilate the attic space.

 

[theoldwizard1]

The least expensive insulation is blown in cellulose. It can be used on walls. The down side of cellulose is that it will settle over time. Check the price difference between blown in cellulose vs blown in fiberglass.

Professionals mix some kind of adhesive with the cellulose so that it sticks to the wall cavity. This is temporary and requires some kind of covering (plywood/drywall).

You can also staple up "skrim" and then DIY blow between the outer wall and the skrim. Requires at least 2 people. One to feed the machine and one to handle the nozzle. Plywood/drywall still required because the skrim will not last.

 

[karoc]

I like idea of sound proofing

 

[mike93lx]

All insulation helps with sound control, rockwool is better than fiberglass, though

 

[billconner]

I find the new fiberglass by Corning itch free. I was surprised. And you can get R21 in a 2x6 wall.

That said I'd use blow on cellulose if I could and dense pack it - 3 pcf. Whether you use a reinforced poly or just the he drywall, you'll get better performance than any batt because it fills every odd cavity and gap. More rodent and insect unfriendly than batts and great noise reduction because of the density. (fibreglass around 1 pcf , rockwool around 2 Oct explaining that difference, and dense packed cellulose around 3 pcf ) Hire it done. By the time you buy materials and get the proper air lock machine and get help, you'll save very little if anything.

 

[ArtisanFarms]

I used Rockwool in my forever home and would never go back to fiberglass. It is much easier and faster to install properly compared to fiberglass, especially around electrical boxes and wires and as others have said, better for sound deadening.

I think ease of installation and lack of itching was more than worth the premium in price.

 

[chinboys]

Don't forget an air barrier on the outside wall to stop drafts (convection heat transfer) from adding to your heating or cooling load.
And a moisture barrier to prevent indoor humidity from migrating towards the inside wall cavities (mold).

 

[billconner]

Don't forget an air barrier on the outside wall to stop drafts (convection heat transfer) from adding to your heating or cooling load.
And a moisture barrier to prevent indoor humidity from migrating towards the inside wall cavities (mold).

He's in Texas. Exterior moisture will condense on interior "moisture barrier" because of AC. None or possibly against exterior wall.

BSD-106: Understanding Vapor Barriers | buildingscience.com

buildingscience.com

 

[NUTTSGT]

Heating or cooling will improve the dollars you spend on the insulation. Spend more for better results later.

However, for some it doesn't quite work that way realistically.

Rockwool is just getting a spot on the shelf around here and I'm not sure where it is price point. Blown cellulose, I don't like the stuff, but there's a local place that makes it and can be bought (or used to be) for a discount rate.

Personally, I would probably do fiberglass in the walls with 3" in Great Stuff in the bottom.

Ceiling, fiberglass batts with a cover layer of 1" foil faced polyiso and metal ribbed panels for the final layer.

 

[jskicet]

I just did my 30x36 with 2x8 walls ( total 14 ft/10ft studs 4 ft block) last fall with Lowes R19 pink stuff and got the same deal when bought in bulk. It went up fine and I was happy with the results. Not really itchy anymore but I did were a mask and long sleeves.

 

[billconner]

Just curious, were 2x8 to more or less match block thickness?

And any plans to insulate block?