Insulation ideas for my attached garage

[jkrswld]

Howdy folks - looking to gather and finalize ideas on how to "finish" the ceiling in my garage.

The garage is attached with one wall. I've got two newer garage doors that appear to be decent quality and insulated. There are two service doors that are awfully flimsy and include single pane windows. Eventually I'll ditch those for some good steel ones. Oh, there's also a window on the one wall which is also single pane.

The 2 walls that aren't attached to the home don't seem to be insulated. Right now, the ceiling is wide open as pictured. I believe the joists or whatever they're called are spaced out in 48 inch runs, with the roof joists appearing to be 24" on center (so every other one has the board that goes end-to-end of garage). My quick measurements show it to be 21' x 22' and the bottom of the trusses to the floor was 106 inches....or almost 9 feet i suppose.

I have hopes of having somebody out to discuss options to upgrade my electric. Right now there is only ONE outlet besides the two in the ceiling for the door openers. I would like to have at least one or two on each wall with one or two outdoor outlets. And, if/when the ceiling gets done I'll get an electric overhead heater of somekind that I can run on a thermostat. I prefer that over a fuel-based one, but do have natural gas coming to the house and don't think it'd be awfully hard to T-off the furnace line and bring that to garage. Maybe I'll make a 2nd thread on that...


Anyway - what do you guys think? I don't depend on this space for a living and really just use it for average home-owner stuff and basic vehicle maintenance. And making/drinking beers and general hangouts. The goal is to try and increase the livability in summer, but also to keep it above freezing through winter with the option to throttle up heat when desired. I need to cut into the soffits outside to add a couple of vents, but there are two vents in the roof now. If and when we redo the roof I'll go ridge vent for sure.

I was thinking of using some recycled tin/metal from old barns or whatever - do a good job of putting it up and then throwing roll insulation up there. If i couldn't source some used stuff i could probably grab some from a box store. I'm thinking I'd need to tack up plastic if I don't use a kraft-face insulation?

Pics in my album here:
http://garagejournal.com/forum/album.php?albumid=3326

 

[danv]

First I would decide if you will ever use part of it for auto storage or more serious vehicle maintenance. If you would raise your roof a few feet to an 11 or 12 foot ceiling height you would be able to use a 4 post lift for work and storage ( would have to change the tracks and door opener to a jack lift. Otherwise I would remove the press board inside walls ensure 16 inch centers and add studs as required. Run electrical and insulate and do not forget to put in a good vapour barrier. Use some styrofoam billets to ensure air flow from soffits into attic and vapour barrier and strap ceiling and finish ceiling. Insulate ceiling. If heating changing the windows and doors would be in order. Because of where you live and want to heat I would strongly recommend insulating. Might want to change and put insulated car doors in also. Whatever you spend will increasae the value of your house so, in my opinion, it is money well spent. In the summer you colud install drop screen in car door areas and use as a big gazebo.

 

[jkrswld]

I'm almost wondering if maybe I should throw some furring strips perpendicular the the trusses at some kind of interval, and lay the roll insulation on top between trusses and using the furring strips for support. Then followup with plastic for vapor, and finish the outside with my material of choice?

 

[jkrswld]

Well, step one is accomplished. I've decided to evaluate and come up with a way to install some stringers or whatever you'd call them - basically mimicking the trusses where there aren't any, which should give me the 24" between each I desire. I bought some R38 12inch insulation. Just gotta figure out the most economical way to get those other 2x4's up (trusses are 2x4) across the garage.

And, I've got a license electrician that does everything for my employer to come out and he's going to hook me up with a sub panel, some outlets, and some 240V outlets. Woo!

 

[rancherbill]

Two thoughts,

TO nail the gyproc up, make a phony truss. It is a 2x4 on the ceiling, 1x2 12" long hanging own and holding a 2x4. Build them on the floor and just lift then up. They won't hold the insulation up so staple ordinary packing tape across the 2x4s to hold the insulation up until you install the gyproc.

Don't forget ventilation and a vapor barrier. I don't know how the issues are handle in your area.

You will be amazed at the difference the insulation will make even in an unheated space.

 

[jkrswld]

Thanks for the tip - but, what's gyproc? ventalation is already taken care of so that's good.

 

[jkrswld]

Welp, got my fake trusses up. All by myself too, not too rough. Some had a bit of a warp to them but they're up and secure. there are a few "random" boards on the top half that actually support the door openers and rails, as well as one that goes across and just has electrical stapled to it. I left all those in tact and put screws through into my new wood when possible. Feels quite firm, I have high confidence it'll hold insulation and ceiling just fine. Here's a pic of the trusses up - hopefully this week I can get time and energy to staple up the duravent things and keep moving!

Sharp eyes may notice that they are built from 2x4x12 with one cut down a bit - then strapped together on each side in the middle. Then, each side has a 36inch hanger up to the ceiling joist, exactly like the existing stuff did. I wasn't overly concerned with those being exact as the work of the builder is noticeably not pristine, though everything turns out level.

View media item 37199

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

And, I've got a license electrician that does everything for my employer to come out and he's going to hook me up with a sub panel, some outlets, and some 240V outlets. Woo!

That's what I was going to suggest...I put a sub-panel in my garage and wouldn't have it any other way now.

 

[Scott H in Wheaton]

Thanks for the tip - but, what's gyproc?

gypsum board
drywall
sheet rock

combine it all and abbreviate it = gyproc

Its actually a name brand in Australia for "plaster board"

 

[jkrswld]

Thanks Scott! I am fine replacing existing stuff electrically but wasn't about to **** around with adding a subpanel and all that. Plus, his bending of the conduit (i'm going surface mount for everything) will turn out much better than what I could do. Plus, peace of mind is valuable to me.

I'm still thinking on ceiling finish but right now I'm leaning toward some form of metal - corrugated or maybe some soffit/metal roof panel type thing.

 

[jkrswld]

Moving right along. Got the conduit and boxes mounted for electrical, going to be pulling wire soon. Now, I went and got Durovents and ended up buying half of my original plan, after noticing they're perforated to be ripped down the center. that leaves me with one vent section per truss space, and the truss spaces are 24 inches. Do I need to have that whole space occupied by Durovent, or is one half of it ok? I stapled my half sheets up and the cieling is still open so it wouldn't be a big deal to go spend another 15 bucks to do full coverage of the Durovents. Thoughts?

I do plan to get soffit vents (there's none now) up ASAP - probably going to do 2 on the front and 2 on the back. There's 2 stationary roof vents now. Garage is about 21 x 22 or something like that.