To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Insulation Ideas

CPTpatt

New member
Joined
Jul 21, 2023
Messages
3
I have a 20x22x8 building with 2x4 stud walls 24" OC. It has 2x4 trusses spaced at 24". The building is covered with metal with double bubble sandwiched between the roof panels and trusses. There is no insulation on the walls and the ceiling is open. It has a 9x7 insulated garage door and an insulated 36" walk thru door. I am looking at double bubble for the walls and covering them with cabin grade T&G. I am thinking of adding a single zone mini split later. What would you recommend for the Central Arkansas climate.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

racecougar

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2021
Messages
5,123
Location
Missouri
I wouldn't waste any money on "double bubble". Are you going to put in a ceiling? Does the building have soffit and ridge venting?
 

billconner

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,970
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I agree with racecougar. R11 fiberglass would do much more. I'd recommend a ceiling and insulation on top of it as first step.

The t&g walls are ideal for dense pack cellulose blown in. Just leave top board off and blow.

Could use t&g for ceiling also.

Both wall and ceiling Is put in a poly vapor barrier.
 

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
I also agree with racecougar and R15 is no problem with simple fiberglass even I prefer rockwool.

The longer you think you will stay in there the more it make sense to spend money on insulation.
 

CombatNinja

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 24, 2013
Messages
1,456
Also, CPTpatt, what is your location? That is a pretty relevant question when beginning to devise an insulation strategy.
 

Stuart in MN

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 8, 2005
Messages
23,129
Location
Minneapolis
If you read up on it, despite what the manufacturers may claim that bubble insulation has a minimal R value. You're going to be better off with fiberglass or some other more traditional product.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Mr.N

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 13, 2005
Messages
2,222
Location
Mpls, MN
What is your budget?
What is more important: Keeping cost down today or keeping cost down over time? (aka do you want to invest or have a quick solution?)
Can you do the work yourself or need to hire it out?
Do you know what zone your are in? I would guess the mini split means you need heat and cooling.
 

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
What is your budget?
What is more important: Keeping cost down today or keeping cost down over time? (aka do you want to invest or have a quick solution?)
Can you do the work yourself or need to hire it out?
Do you know what zone your are in? I would guess the mini split means you need heat and cooling.
Good questions and it looks like zone 7b could be it.
 

WisJim

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 20, 2010
Messages
2,283
Location
Menomonie, WI
My building has steel siding and roofing and I went with full sheathing of walls and roof with blandex and housewrap for a stiffer building and a better insulation job with spray foam. I think it was worth the extra expense--but all my materials were at pre-Covid prices (got it all just as Covid began and before prices rose).
 

kinglake

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
Messages
96
I'm in Central Arkansas as well with a 30x30x12. Double bubble on walls and ceiling, no other insulation although the walls are covered in OSB. You didn't mention if you want to heat/cool full time or only when using. I only heat/cool when I am using the shop. I heat with a wood stove without issue. Cooling is via a 36k mini-split. It takes much longer to cool down in the summer than to heat up in the winter.

I thought about adding insulation, but after I went around air sealing by taping all the seams in the double-bubble and spray foaming the occasional gaps around the edges, I noticed a tremendous improvement all around. So much so that I decided insulating wasn't work the effort/cost.

Again, big difference between occasional use or full-time conditioning.
 

acer66

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
I'm in Central Arkansas as well with a 30x30x12. Double bubble on walls and ceiling, no other insulation although the walls are covered in OSB. You didn't mention if you want to heat/cool full time or only when using. I only heat/cool when I am using the shop. I heat with a wood stove without issue. Cooling is via a 36k mini-split. It takes much longer to cool down in the summer than to heat up in the winter.

I thought about adding insulation, but after I went around air sealing by taping all the seams in the double-bubble and spray foaming the occasional gaps around the edges, I noticed a tremendous improvement all around. So much so that I decided insulating wasn't work the effort/cost.

Again, big difference between occasional use or full-time conditioning.
Sealing the building envelope is the first and like you mentioned big step.
 

ycgoat

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2020
Messages
971
Location
S.E. Va
I have double sided radiant foil (no Bubble) The bubble has no practical use and is a waste of money, the reflective barrier works well, where an air gap is maintained between the metal panels that see direct sunlight and the foil; it will reflect radiant heat from a heater back in as well. If you are trying to hold a comfortable temp with out the heat or AC running continuous you will need good insulation and vapor barrier. A wood stove is a good continuous source as long as it is in use.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom