Insulation in pole barn

[Idunnit]

I have spent quite a bit of time viewing other posts and am still not sure on what I need to do to correctly insulate my pole barn. I have a 20x32 pole building with a steel roof and steel siding. My plans are to close it in with osb and install heat and airconditioning. I do not have any type of insulation up at this time but I do have 4x8 sheets of the blue foam insulation. When building this thing I did not have the foil bubble wrap installed under the roofing and realize now that I should have had this done. My concerns are that I might be creating some problems if I dont do this correctly. I want to keep this cheap as possible but realize that sometimes this means just doing it correctly the first time. I have the osb installed in the ceiling with the exception of the last row but do not have the interior walls installed right now. My concerns are condensation issues, mold and proper placement of vapor barriers. Thanks in advance for any advice.

Chuck

 

[paullie]

SPRAY FOAM!!!!!!!!!!!!!! you wont regret it

 

[richtersrodz]

I also have a pole barn that was prior built to me getting the property. I'd like to find out
what you do, on how to insulate it, down the the road. I will probably spring for a slab
first, since my floor is still dirt.. I have skylights in mine that I will probably want to keep.

I couldn't even image what the cost of spray foam would be.. $$$.

 

[jomobco]

I've got shelf girts in mine 24" oc in which R19 bats fit nicely in between horizontally.

 

[bigguns69]

I just completed a 36 x 50 x 15' tall pole building and insulated the floor using 2" pink foam board under the 5" thick concrete. I used 1 1/2 inch styrofoam board in between the girts of the exterior side walls and then filled the pole thickness void with 6" thick 6' wide by 50' long rolls of non faced fiberglass bat insulation that I got at a commericial insulation store. I have R25, for the most part in the walls. I then finished the interior with 2x girt boards and painted 7/16" OSB. It is nice and cozy and exactly what I was for hopeing it would be. I hung the bat insulation up on the walls using a dywall lift to lift the 15' long bat and the used several 6" long timber screws through the bat into the outside girt to hang the insulation. My poles and trusses are on 6' centers. The ceiling will be insulated with the 6" bat material this winter. I have the ceiling already finished with OSB and (24) CF lites. If i were to do anything different I might choose the interior steel or a panel already painted. I spent about $1,000 on paint on the in side. The OSB drinks paint and takes multiple coats to get a decent coverage, (lots of time). Have fun.

 

[paullie]

I also have a pole barn that was prior built to me getting the property. I'd like to find out
what you do, on how to insulate it, down the the road. I will probably spring for a slab
first, since my floor is still dirt.. I have skylights in mine that I will probably want to keep.

I couldn't even image what the cost of spray foam would be.. $$$.

somebody on here had it done and seemed like it was around $3000, which is alot of $$$ but if if you plan on staying there for a long time and are planning on spending lots of time in your shop you will not be sorry, that 's the one thing i wish i had done to my shop. call around and get a few estimites, cant hurt to check

 

[Idunnit]

I found a deal on craigslist today for some rolls of fiberglass insulation, would like to use this for the ceiling, my question is do I need to install the reflective bubble insulation on the bottom side of the roof to avoid condensation? And if so can I attatch it to the roof girts or do I have to attatch this directly to the roof? I have most of the osb up for the ceiling, just left one row out to be able to install the insulation.

Thanks for the help

Chuck

 

[mebedave]

I found a deal on craigslist today for some rolls of fiberglass insulation, would like to use this for the ceiling, my question is do I need to install the reflective bubble insulation on the bottom side of the roof to avoid condensation? And if so can I attatch it to the roof girts or do I have to attatch this directly to the roof? I have most of the osb up for the ceiling, just left one row out to be able to install the insulation.

Thanks for the help

Chuck

hmm, I have the same question. Use spray foam,this is what you will here just about every time you read a thread regarding tin building and condensation (I can't afford it!). I too think something attached to the under side if the tin would work,but not 100%. Depot sales 1/4" foam I was thinking about attaching it to the bottom of the tin somehow,like 3M spray adhesive but I would want to talk to 3M to be sure it will stick. I think this would work as a condensation stopper. Then I'll attach a vapor barrier to the bottom of trusses,follow up by attaching my ceiling board. Then I plan to blow in to the attic r60 fiberglass.
I talked to Morton ( that's who built my pole barn) they told me NOT to use spray foam, it will cause the tin to rust out. Now I know you foam guy's are going to have a field day with that statement, but I'm just telling you what Morton told me.

 

[RGKSR]

I'm in kinda the same boat. I just purchased a home with a 31x44 Pole barn garage.

It has 2x4's attatched to the poles horizontally and the outside walls nailed to the 2x4's. I need to insulate the walls, but how do you secure vertical 2x6's to the 2x4's? I can't nail them on because the 2x4's do not seem to offer anything to nail to. I would like to just install bats and then fire resistant sheet rock. Or maybe install the vertical studs and have insulation sprayed in.

Bob K.

 

[Bigrhamr]

I'm in kinda the same boat. I just purchased a home with a 31x44 Pole barn garage.

It has 2x4's attatched to the poles horizontally and the outside walls nailed to the 2x4's. I need to insulate the walls, but how do you secure vertical 2x6's to the 2x4's? I can't nail them on because the 2x4's do not seem to offer anything to nail to. I would like to just install bats and then fire resistant sheet rock. Or maybe install the vertical studs and have insulation sprayed in.

Bob K.

Just put your 2"x6" in between the posts horizontally with spacing suitable for insulation and sheetrock. You're actually better off not attaching them to the 2x4s on the outside since doing so creates a thermal bridge, reducing the effectiveness of your insulation.

 

[jack anderson]

I am working with a 30'X28' pole garage with loft trusses 8/12 pitch steel roof and siding. It was constructed by Conestoga Builders with the typical strapping and 6X6 posts. I used tyvek to seal the the walls and used tape and caulking. Then I framed in 2X4 walls which allowed me to us R19 insulation on the first floor walls. I am covering the walls on the first floor with BC 1/2" plywood. I built stairs going up to the loft area which will be 13' wide by 28' long. I used 3/4 inch T&G plywood for the loft floor. At this point I am thinking that I will use tyvek as a vapor and wind barrier on the ceiling and attempt to seal it with tyvek tape. I was then thinking of using r30 insulation in the ceiling rafters. I read some information about using webbing fabric and then blowing in insulation for the walls and ceiling. I have opted not to go this route. Regarding the foam insulation I have not heard anyone talk about the toxic concerns. I understand that for tin roof buildings/ pole barns foam might be a good option for the best r factor and for dealing with the condensation problems but what about the fumes and toxic properties of using foam insulation? This concern along with the cost of hiring someone to spray foam on my ceiling have me in a holding pattern. I'm still on the fence but I am leaning towards tyvek and r30 bat for the ceiling and rafters..

 

[RGKSR]

Jack,

Although the polebarn has no insulation, the entire basement of the house (2500 sf) has spray on foam insulation on the walls and floors. The building codes around here are very strict (homes are required to have sprinkler systems), so I doubt they would allow something that emmited toxic fumes.

Bob K.

 

[RGKSR]

Bigrhamr,

Great idea!

Thanks,
Bob K.

 

[bmcdowell40]

Just put your 2"x6" in between the posts horizontally with spacing suitable for insulation and sheetrock. You're actually better off not attaching them to the 2x4s on the outside since doing so creates a thermal bridge, reducing the effectiveness of your insulation.

I'm in the process of framing out and insulating my garage this way but I'm framing it out with 2x4s and putting them flush with the front face of the posts. The 2x4s aren't structural, they're just holding the insulation and whatever you put on the walls, in my case, 7/16" OSB. It takes alot of lumber so usint 2x4s instead of 2x6s will save you some money.

 

[fiveohpatrol]

I'm in the process of framing out and insulating my garage this way but I'm framing it out with 2x4s and putting them flush with the front face of the posts. The 2x4s aren't structural, they're just holding the insulation and whatever you put on the walls, in my case, 7/16" OSB. It takes alot of lumber so usint 2x4s instead of 2x6s will save you some money.

That's exactly the method I'm doing. It ended up taking 55 12ft 2x4s and a handfull of others, so you're right, 2x6s would have added a decent amount to the cost.

 

[jack anderson]

This is how I framed my walls with 2X4's flush to the 6X6 posts I used a concrete nail gun to nail the seal plate to the concrete. I sealed the strapping and metal with tyvek sealed with tape and caulked at the base prior to setting up walls.. This is a 30' X28' 8/12 pitch structure with loft trusses. I hope to get some updated pictures in my album