Insulation Question

[Improved700]

Long time listener, first time caller.

I have a existing 25X75 shed on my property, that I am working on. I am going to partition off 30 feet of it, for my shop, and the rest will be cold storage. The building is stick built wood, with 12 inch tounge and groove boards for sheeting, no house wrap of any sort and slate/masonite siding. Side walls are 2X6, 24" O.C., 12 foot sidewalls. Location is Northeast Wisconsin, so heating in the winter is important.

Since I plan on heating the shop portion year round, I want to keep the air infiltration of the walls to a minimum. Here is my thought...

Take 1/2" pink insulation board, and place tightly between the studs, and caulk all around the edges, then use fiberglass kraft faced bats, and fill the cavity. Then cover that with plastic sheeting, then use 5/5" OSB for the wall covering.

Or would I be better off trying to see all the joints of the 12" boards first, then put fiberglass in, and then plastic? My concern would be moisture getting onto the fiberglass through the outside sheeting and getting moldy.

Or is there a better way that I am not thinking of?

Thanks alot... this is a great site!!!!
Kevin in Wisconsin

 

[petty4243]

do you currently have inside walls covered? if so, tou might consider cellulose blow in insulation../ can you take a few pictures?

 

[Improved700]

Currently walls are unfinished, so that's why I want to do it right. I was at Home Depot this afternoon, would foil faced insulation board be better than pink board in a potential damp area?

 

[Dragster Racer]

I just hit an auction in St Charles IL, arranged by Peak auctions. They auction overstocked building materials. I picked up a bunch of the 1/2" foam board. For my pole building, I am thinking of doing very similar to what you are thinking about. I picked up a bunch of the foam boards at a fraction of new price. Most of it is decent. There is also a guy that I saw with overstocked insulation pretty far south in Illinois. His prices are listed on his website, and look to be less than half of the price of new. I am thinking of either cans of foam, or getting the bulk tanks of it to seal all the joints and corners. Maybe some sort of tape for the joints?

 

[Dragster Racer]

Oh, Peak auctions has thier own website, and the other guy is nichols5.com

 

[Dragster Racer]

I even wondered if I should cut the foam for between the purlins and mount against the steel exterior, or take the easy way and mount full sheets against the purlins. Way faster the second way. It does take up about 1/2" of cavity that the R19 batts will be in. They are 6" batts in a 6" cavity. not sure how much I compromise them by compressing 1/2".

 

[petty4243]

be cautious with the spray foam, deteriorates with time... would be better off with some sort of caulk and a good vapor barrier over every thing when done

 

[johnweinssen]

be cautious with the spray foam, deteriorates with time... would be better off with some sort of caulk and a good vapor barrier over every thing when done

I have spray foam in a 1990 chevy van that is likely closed cell, and was done( they tell me about 15 years ago)- I think it is what is holding the van together- I see no evidence of deterioration- It is the closed cell type, open cell allows moisture to deteriorate itself over time,I believe this is what you mean? Sorry I am new here and am learning along with you all now.Great Site!

 

[tfi racing]

I think you may be better off just going with the batts,poly vapour barrier then drywall.Some air infiltration through the exterior boards may help keep the insulation dry and the mold away.I would just make sure the exterior siding is in good condition with proper flashing and caulking to keep out as much moisture as possible.Check with your local experts,the methods used in a certain geographic area are usually the way to go,sometimes our overthinking and engineering causes more problems than it solves.