Insulation Question

[DIY Rookie]

So I have a 25x22 garage with an 8ft ceiling that I am going to insulate in a couple weeks. My question is, I was probably going to do R13 in the walls, and R30 in the ceiling. Would it make a big/huge difference if I went with R15 in the walls and R38 in the ceiling? If its really not going to benefit me that much than I would like to save the cost. If it would really benefit me and make it worth it to spend a little extra to upgrade than I'll do it. If I'm not going to see a huge benefit than I'd like to save the money. Appreciate any input. Ty

 

[The Cobbler]

pay for insulation once, pay for heat each time it comes on.

 

[Firebrick43]

If your going to heat it all the time, even to 50 some degrees, the ROI tapers off after R60 in the ceiling. I absolutely pays you back to insulate higher level especially in a northern climate as yours and also with high cost fuels such as oil,propane, and especially electric resistance heat.

Also note that fiberglass is not equal to other insulation’s at high delta values. If forms convection currents and is drastically inferior to nearly everything else due to this.

 

[DIY Rookie]

If your going to heat it all the time, even to 50 some degrees, the ROI tapers off after R60 in the ceiling. I absolutely pays you back to insulate higher level especially in a northern climate as yours and also with high cost fuels such as oil,propane, and especially electric resistance heat.

Also note that fiberglass is not equal to other insulation’s at high delta values. If forms convection currents and is drastically inferior to nearly everything else due to this.

Thanks for the response. And no, It will not be continuously heated. I will only heat it up when I go out there to work on stuff like my Harley or any house projects.

 

[DIY Rookie]

pay for insulation once, pay for heat each time it comes on.

Ok but that didn't answer my question.

 

[nadogail]

Ok but that didn't answer my question.

IMHO, What you might save by scrimping on insulation will be eaten up in the extra heating required for your garage.

 

[NUTTSGT]

pay for insulation once, pay for heat each time it comes on.

Ok but that didn't answer my question.

Actually it does. You're just looking at it wrong.

Insulation is an investment. . . . think of the ROI.

You pay for the insulation one time. You pay for heat every time you use it. The better insulation you have, the less BTUs consumed to heat the space. Less BTUs consumed means it's costing less to heat.

 

[DIY Rookie]

Actually it does. You're just looking at it wrong.

Insulation is an investment. . . . think of the ROI.

You pay for the insulation one time. You pay for heat every time you use it. The better insulation you have, the less BTUs consumed to heat the space. Less BTUs consumed means it's costing less to heat.

Ok that makes sense, but let me ask you this. What if I only use my garage maybe 10 times a winter. Is it still worth it to pay for the R15 and R38? I won't be keeping it heated continuously throughout the winter. Only heat it up enough to go out there and work as I need too.

 

[drmarkr]

Ok that makes sense, but let me ask you this. What if I only use my garage maybe 10 times a winter. Is it still worth it to pay for the R15 and R38? I won't be keeping it heated continuously throughout the winter. Only heat it up enough to go out there and work as I need too.

Your screen name suggests an answer....you're a rookie right now. Which means with some more experience you'll no longer be a rookie. At which time you'll spend far more time in the garage....and then you'll be glad you spent a little bit more for the higher R value. Just do it!

 

[The Cobbler]

How much more will the insulation cost you? if it affordable then I would do it. if you have to save up to do it, I wouldn't bother with it . the extra r value isn't that much , what 2% additional. probably not real noticeable on your heat bill

 

[DIY Rookie]

How much more will the insulation cost you? if it affordable then I would do it. if you have to save up to do it, I wouldn't bother with it . the extra r value isn't that much , what 2% additional. probably not real noticeable on your heat bill

So Cobbler, if I go with R13 in the walls, and R30 in the ceiling it will be $652.52. If I go with the R15 and the R38 it will be $767.01 so thats a $114.49 difference. If you say its only maybe a 2% additional is it worth it to spend. And like I said, I might be out there give or take I'd say realistically between 10-20 times throughout the winter. Would I rather save the money? Yes, especially for what my time spent will be out there.

What say you in your opinion?

Appreciate your time and opinion.

 

[The Cobbler]

I would go the cheaper option .

 

[DIY Rookie]

Your screen name suggests an answer....you're a rookie right now. Which means with some more experience you'll no longer be a rookie. At which time you'll spend far more time in the garage....and then you'll be glad you spent a little bit more for the higher R value. Just do it!

Thanks for the response. I'm a half rookie now lol. But I will spend at the max maybe 20 days out In my garage during the winter. It will only be heated when I plan on going out there. Will there be a huge or noticeable difference between R13 and R30 as opposed to R15 and R38 to pay the extra money for the time I will be spending out there?

 

[DIY Rookie]

I would go the cheaper option .

Thank you for your help. I appreciate it. So basically Its not enough of a noticeable difference in your opinion to justify it huh?

 

[ItsNemo]

I'd do R13 walls, that's fine but R38, or even better R50 in the attic...most heat loss is up. Then spend a fair bit of effort (it's effort mostly, not money) on air sealing if you really want to save costs.

 

[DIY Rookie]

I'd do R13 walls, that's fine but R38, or even better R50 in the attic...most heat loss is up. Then spend a fair bit of effort (it's effort mostly, not money) on air sealing if you really want to save costs.

I was actually thinking the something about the R38 for the ceiling. I may just go that route. Thanks for the info on the air ceiling. I'll look into that. Appreciate your time.

 

[rebelranger]

Go the cheaper route. See this link https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/76941/The-Diminishing-Returns-of-Adding-More-Insulation

After R19 the ROI isn't there

 

[Firebrick43]

Go the cheaper route. See this link https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/76941/The-Diminishing-Returns-of-Adding-More-Insulation

After R19 the ROI isn't there

Um, that article is only talking walls and not ceilings, and no one is discussing over r15 in the walls here. And further more it has no pertinate information the the OP climate zone as they used very temperate zones in the us not a cold one.



So diyrookie, I don’t think according to your current needs the extra insulation isn’t necessary. I doubt the roi would be there.

However, life changes. You decide to make a garage a bar or hang out instead of just a shop, or the wife decides she wants a warm car every morning. Then what? The insulation in the ceiling (if using trusses) can be upgraded later to meet needs easy enough but if the walls are insulated and enclosed then it gets quite expensive.

Maybe a prudent solution would r15 in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. Save a little but future proof things.

 

[DIY Rookie]

Go the cheaper route. See this link https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/76941/The-Diminishing-Returns-of-Adding-More-Insulation

After R19 the ROI isn't there

Even for the ceiling?

 

[DIY Rookie]

So I don’t think according to your current needs the extra insulation isn’t necessary. I doubt the roi would be there.

However, life changes. You decide to make a garage a bar or hang out instead of just a shop, or the wife decides she wants a warm car every morning. Then what? The insulation in the ceiling (if using trusses) can be upgraded later to meet needs easy enough but if the walls are insulated and enclosed then it gets quite expensive.

Maybe a prudent solution would r15 in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. Save a little but future proof things.

Thanks for chiming in. I appreciate it. I highly doubt it will become a "hangout" or anything of that nature. If I do hangout in there with some buddies or what not, it will be to work on the Harley so It would also serve its purpose, but like I said, at the maximum I can only see myself out there in the dead of winter maybe 20 times. Now with that said, it would be nice to even without the heat on it still be a better temp that without insulation.

 

[DIY Rookie]

Go the cheaper route. See this link https://www.energyvanguard.com/blog/76941/The-Diminishing-Returns-of-Adding-More-Insulation

After R19 the ROI isn't there

Thank you for that link. That was a great read.

 

[Metal-Marc]

You have to make sure the garage is properly sealed before doing insulation. You have to cut air infiltration. That is why sprayed cellulose is far supperior to fiberglass even at a lower R value.

 

[skulldrinker]

I just had a new door installed R17. Makes a world of difference from an old regular door. But it was $1400.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[Riley]

I think there may be a point the conversation is missing. How do you plan to heat the space and what does it cost? I know money doesn't grow on trees, and I personally don't have a money printer soooo....if you choose to save $114 on this $700 project and for some reason you decide to add it later what's the cost? I'll bet a bunch more time and trouble than doing it now.

I agree the air sealing is paramount, wall 13 is probably fine, ceiling what ever you want to afford. Heat rises, insulation slows the loss. Pay for heat or pay for insulation.

Let us know what you choose!


PS - Avoid fiberglass if possible. "Roxul" or rock wool, is a much better option and within a few bucks.

 

[CombatNinja]

How is saving $120 on a shop build vs. increased comfort and 'future proofing' yourself against any increases in energy costs even a discussion? Insulation is one of those things that is easy to get right the first time and exponentially harder to fix after the fact. Given Michigan, I would insulate and air seal like there was no tomorrow.

 

[santagary]

Amen on doing it now...especially if you're heating with propane. g

 

[DIY Rookie]

Thank you everyone for your input and help. I have to figure exactly how I want to go about this. You all are awesome. Thanks

 

[NUTTSGT]

In would put the most in the walls possible right now, especially if you are planning on covering them up, with drywall, osb, plywood or whatever. No reason to rip it back up for more insulation later.

The ceiling needs more insulation but if money is tight, go with the R30 for now and you can roll unfaced fiberglass (perpendicular) later as money becomes available and blanket the attic space.


Like mentioned above, you may not be out there much right now, but as you grow older and hang out here at GJ, I'd imagine that you spend more time out there.. . . buy more tools, a bigger tool box and realize that you need a bigger garage.

 

[Capt Chrysler]

20 days max now.

How many days after it's warm and comfortable?

Capt. Chrysler

 

[banjopete]

Having a well insulated garage that is ready for constant heat can also be a selling feature to a prospective buyer. I'm also with the others that say for $100 now I'd definitely go with more while it's easy to. Future you might enjoy a heated garage, and then future you might not hate past you for saving $100 while tearing it all apart.

One other thing that isn't mentioned is insulation will also have the added benefit of reducing the summer heat soak, keeping your shop cooler.

Good luck.

Sent from my SM-G960W using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[CombatNinja]

20 days max now.

How many days after it's warm and comfortable?

Capt. Chrysler

Yeah. I used to be one of those guys that made hay during April/May and then again in Oct/Nov because N. Carolina is mild and those are the comfortable months. Painting the garage mutated into a comprehensive build with new insulation, flooring, electric and a mini split for HVAC. I want from spending maybe 15 evenings a year working in my shop to spending 10 evenings a month out there. If you like to tinker, fix things, do projects, etc--then the money spent upgrading your space is well worth it. Can't tell you the number of acquaintances and neighbors that scoff at what I spent on my garage that take at least one stupid vacation a year that they don't even want to go on (their wife drags them along) and they will never even remember. They spend on that year after year without thinking that it is perhaps a waste. I like to work in my shop so I spend money there.

 

[csp]

Where are the insulation estimates coming from? It has been a while since I purchased insulation or had any contractors do it for me, but those prices seem pretty high considering the size.

 

[TractorJeff]

Go with R15 and R38 even if it is a long return investment. Advice of time changing as you grow into a life routine allowing you to spend more time in the garage verses sitting in front of a TV.

 

[CombatNinja]

Where are the insulation estimates coming from? It has been a while since I purchased insulation or had any contractors do it for me, but those prices seem pretty high considering the size.

Welcome to 2020, bro. I actually thought his price sounded a bit cheap given that I just did my crawlspace over with Rockwool to replace old, crappy fiberglass batts. I looked at every option and went with the Rockwool because it offers more R-value per inch, needs no fiddly wire hangers to install and will not hold moisture like fiberglass. When I began looking at this project about 18 months ago, I priced both and the wool was double the cost of fiber, so I was leaning fiber and decided to wait until my HVAC system got replaced so as to not tear up a fresh install with all that. Well, 2020 happened and I delayed my project and it went on hold until the weather cooled here. No way I am crawling around under my house for two days getting itchy in 95 degree heat and 90% humidity. Once the weather turned favorable, I priced my options again and found that fiberglass prices had risen about 30% across the board. Everything is up when it comes to materials.