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Insulation Question

Jamech

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Jan 28, 2010
Messages
213
Location
Tennessee
I am insulating the room above my detached garage and have one end wall with some 2x4 studs on greater then 16" centers. I don't know if I can find 24" wide R13 to cut to fit so would it be better to peice together 16" r13 to fit or seperate some 24" wide R19 and cut it down to width? How much "R" will I lose if I just cut the 24" R19 to width and cram it in?

Jamech
 
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pattenp

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Jun 4, 2008
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10,175
Location
Virginia - USA
You don't want to cram 6" thick insulation into 3 1/2" wall. That will ruin the insulation properties of the insulation. The air gaps in the fiberglass is what provides the insulating power. I'd guess you'd loose at least 30% effectiveness.
 

Rosco

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Jan 4, 2009
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1,140
Location
South Georgia
Piece together the R-13. If you cut it straight and the proper width (give or take a little) it will work great, especially if there is already osb or sheetrock backing on one side. The trick to fiberglass batting is not to compress, do not leave gaps, and take your time when cutting around pipes/wires so there are no voids.

Fiberglass batting gets a really bad rap because it gets improperly installed alot. Also, do yourself a big favor and buy some cheap caulk......caulk every gap in every 2x4 stud (sides/top/bottom) where it meets the siding. I even caulk the nails that potrude through. Air infiltration is the #1 killer of insulation property and r-values.
 

Trackrocket

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Joined
Jul 13, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Chesapeake, Va.
I figure I have some good questions, being that I measured up my "shell" of a garage today as I'm going to insulate it in the near future, my studs are 16" on center but I have 117" from bottom to top plate...are there 10' R13 bats I can purchase? I noticed Home Depot only has 93"...I have yet to look into some commercial/building supply houses in the area but hope to find 10' bats or will buy it in 50' rolls and cut it I guess.

Also, when I do the ceiling, there is a 2nd level storage room, the joists are 8" and I want to put sheetrock up - do I just get 24" R19 and put it up there then blow in the remainder of the rafters that are uncovered by the 2nd level flooring? ...as you can tell, I'm pretty new at this but have been D.I.Y. since I was a wee one...why stop now? ;)
 

jklingel

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Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
i your lid, skip the fiberglass altogether and blow in cellulose. fiberglass is pretty poor insulation. same for the walls. cellulose (blown in or batts), cotton, or mineral wool is better insulation.
 

Trackrocket

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Jul 13, 2010
Messages
4
Location
Chesapeake, Va.
Yeah, I had a buddy over the other day and he said to blow in the ceiling once the sheetrock is up. I was not aware you could use cellulose type insulation in the walls, is there a good way to source that? I started buying rolls of R13 from Home Depot, about two rolls a week as I'm in there a couple times a week picking up miscellaneous items and usually don't have the room on the cart for more than two rolls! Haha.
 
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jklingel

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Nov 29, 2007
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441
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Frbnks, AK
Cellulose is used a LOT in walls. See youtube for some videos (no idea who is good; just know some vids are there) or Google Robert Riversong (housewright.com, I think). He has been dense packing walls for decades and has a great system for double-wall houses, and may have info on retrofitting, too. Either way, it has been done millions of times. Return the fiberglass if you can use cellulose. Fiberglass, despite being ubiquitous, is not real good insulation. j
 

trythis

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Dec 6, 2009
Messages
348
Location
st louis
Have an insulation company that does cellulose blow it in for you. The stuff has glue in it and they blow it up, scrape it flat and its done. It is glued in so it doesnt sag over time
 

jklingel

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Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
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Frbnks, AK
Trythis: Glue? Do you mean the wet-packed stuff? If so, I think it is just water. Maybe someone uses glue, but it seems that would defeat the purpose of having light, fluffy insulation, no? Either way, it apparently sticks till it dries. Some folks don't like adding more water to their walls, though; read that on greenbuildingadvisor.com
 

wbrian63

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Mar 31, 2010
Messages
843
Location
Houston, TX
I'm pretty sure it's glue. Blown in cellulose is far from fluff and light in this application. I've got it in every wall in my house (interiors as well as exteriors), and it's rigid. I've got an area inside the cabinet that houses my water softener that has the 3 valves used to divert the house supply around the softener - sheetrocking around the valves would have been a pain, so I left it open. 10+ years after installation and the cellulose is still firm.

Insulation works by controlling heat or cold migration, and airflow. The small pockets of air separated by insulating material limits heat/cold flow. Blown in cellulose packs all the gaps around and behind outlet boxes - places typical batt insulation misses - this cuts down on drafts.

As far as adding more water to the walls - the cellulose must dry fully before covering it up. This is especially true in parts of the country where a vapor barrier is required - we need no such thing in Houston. My walls were done in June, which in Houston is hot, and it still took nearly a week for the cellulose to dry enough to put the balance of the sheetrock up.

As for cellulose in the attic - that's definitely light and fluffy. I've got about 12" up there, and I'd NEVER do that again. The house is tightly sealed - new windows, housewrap, etc. The rooms that have ventilation - kitchen, bathrooms, are ALWAYS dusty. The dust is the color of the cellulose. I have NO idea where it comes from - the recessed lights pass the white-glove test, as do the A/C registers. There's dust elsewhere in the house, but it's worst in the 2 baths and in the kitchen.
 

jklingel

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Nov 29, 2007
Messages
441
Location
Frbnks, AK
OK, glue it may be then. As for your cellulose dust (ever analyze the dust carefully? is it really cellulose?), I'd wager a bet that your house is NOT as tight as you think. Thousands of homes have heaps of blown cellulose in the attic and do not have dust, including mine (except around a bathroom light/fan that I did not seal real well; long story). Something is not adding up. Dust needs air to travel, obviously, so somebody is leaking. Recessed lights, clean looking or not, would be high on my list to inspect. Those are really frowned on by the Air Tight Homes crowd. Maybe around the light, where it penetrates the sheet rock? Ever have a blower door test done? That may show air sneaking in somewhere where you don't suspect. Hmmmm. Head scratcher.
 

trythis

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Dec 6, 2009
Messages
348
Location
st louis
The glue: they blow it in with water, the water activates the glue. I think it is the same glue as elmers.
 
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