Insulation Recommendations

[richg]

So I just finished the first phase of my garage upgrade. I started with a 30 x 30 block building with 8.5 ft ceiling height, and have successfully raised the roof with 4 ft of framing so that I now have a "lift acceptable" 12.5 ft high ceiling height . Now I need to move onto insulating it.

The interior is currently just concrete block from the floor to 8.5 ft high, then above that is 4 ft high of wood framing (the wood framed section has 1/2 plywood sheathing, tyvek and vinyl siding for exterior). There is currently no ceiling, just open trusses. I'm looking for best bang for the buck insulation setup, which also includes ease of installation since I will be doing it all myself. So if you have any suggestions, fire away!

For heat, I am currently considering picking up a used wood burning or pellet stove.

Thanks

rich

 

[Sack]

May help if folks new where you were located

 

[JCByrd24]

I'd suggest a 2" rigid insulation (comes in 4x8 sheets) for the block and simple fiberglass batts for the framed wall section above. You'll "need" to sheetrock over that for fire resistance per most codes I believe, but polyisocyanurate often comes in foil faced both sides and sometimes is rated for exposure. I'm pretty sure the fiberglass should not be left exposed.

For fastening I'd fir out the block 2" attaching both insulation and firring with your choice of powder actuated fasteners or concrete screws. The insulation will need a large washer as the fastners will pull through. Place firring at the bottom and halfway up the block wall, perhaps also at the top if it is not convenient to use the framed portion for attachment of sheetrock. Once that is done, I'd fir out the framed part even with the finished blockwall + insulation and fill with as much insulation as possible, or you could have a stagger and just leave as is.

 

[RWD]

For the ceiling, if you go with dry wall, 5/8" is probably code. You can get blown-in insulation at most home centers. In fact, a lot of them will let you use the blower machine if you buy the insulation from them.

 

[richg]

Sorry forgot to mention, I am located in Baltimore MD. Most likely, the colder days I would be in there working would be in the 20's (we do get days in the teens and single digits as well, but the majority of winter days are in the 20's).

Thanks very much everyone for the ideas.

rich

 

[daw53]

For the walls you might try Insulpink from Owens Corning.
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/insulpink.asp
It is their pink foam board with grooves for furring strips. I wanted to use this in a house with block walls, that I remodeled, but couldn't find it. So I ended up making my own with the standard 4x8 sheets and a dado blade on the table saw. Worked pretty well, the house stays nice and warm.

 

[Northstar9126]

Are you saying that you raised the whole roof in one piece? If so, that had to be one heck of a project. I would love to see some pictures if you have any.

 

[V-10 Killer]

For the walls you might try Insulpink from Owens Corning.
http://www.owenscorning.com/around/insulation/products/insulpink.asp
It is their pink foam board with grooves for furring strips. I wanted to use this in a house with block walls, that I remodeled, but couldn't find it. So I ended up making my own with the standard 4x8 sheets and a dado blade on the table saw. Worked pretty well, the house stays nice and warm.

You beat me to it, thats some good stuff there. Also, the furring strips you use to fasten it work real good for screwing drywall to if you want a fire barrier. Ever watch that stuff installed? They use a heated wire element to slice through it for electrical and form fitting. Pretty cool.

 

[richg]

Thanks very much everyone for the input. That insulpink is exactly what I'm looking for the block walls!

As for the roof-raising: The old shingles/sheathing was cut and pryed off, then the trusses were disconnected and saved. Then 4 ft of framing was built up, and the trusses and new sheathing/shingles were installed.

Thanks again

Rich

 

[comp]

any pics ???

 

[Colt45]

For the ceiling, if you go with dry wall, 5/8" is probably code. You can get blown-in insulation at most home centers. In fact, a lot of them will let you use the blower machine if you buy the insulation from them.

You just gotta watch out and not blow that stuff too far into the eves. Otherwise youll end up blocking your vents and cause ventilation issues in the attic space.


shrugs.. just figured id share that, ive had the same issues due to the previous owner.

 

[richg]

any pics ???

I have them on my home pc, I'll have to upload them this wknd.

rich

 

[comp]

I have them on my home pc, I'll have to upload them this wknd.

rich

cool

 

[gesoffen]

As Colt45 mentioned, be careful not to block the eve vents. Also, not sure what your new roof system is, but you have to insure adequate ventilation along the roof sheathing to the gable vent or ridge vent. This usually means some kind of ridged barrier if your using blown in insulation or battens if you're using roll insulation. If you fail to provide adequate ventilation, you WILL get ice damning and a failed roof/leaks in short order.

Also, may want to consider a reflective foil under the roofing material to keep summer roof temps down.