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Insulation recommendations

bc2024

New member
Joined
Jul 25, 2024
Messages
2
Hello,

We recently moved into this property which had this bard already built. I know absolutely nothing about pole barn construction and was looking for your opinions on how would be the best way to insulate it. We live in CO at 8000ft so the winters can get pretty cold

Thanks!

IMG_2024-07-25-153204.jpegIMG_2024-07-25-152457.jpegIMG_2024-07-25-153256.jpeg
 
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mike93lx

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Dec 9, 2013
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37,368
Location
Richmond, VA
On a budget? Spray foam would be the least effort but highest cost, and would take care of air sealing at the same time.

Plans to condition the space?
 
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bc2024

New member
Joined
Jul 25, 2024
Messages
2
On a budget? Spray foam would be the least effort but highest cost, and would take care of air sealing at the same time.

Plans to condition the space?
I’m on somewhat of a budget, not trying to break the bank. From what I’ve gathered it’s looking like spray foam might be out of reach.

Yes I will eventually be conditioning it
 
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skippydoo

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Oct 28, 2012
Messages
174
Location
Sussex NJ
Air sealing is important , spray foam does both sealing and insulating , might be cheaper in the long run. I have a 30x40 13 ft ceiling height, I did 3 in roof and 2 inches on the walls closed cell , was great till I had problems with the roof foam , then had it resprayed and got a terrible job and need to do it again.
 

chinboys

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Joined
Jun 20, 2011
Messages
434
So heat transfer happens as a result of heat (energy) "moving" from hot to cold via three mechanisms.
1. Conduction (energy transfer from solids, liquids, gases to other solids, liquids, gases)
2. Convection (drafts)
3. Radiation (big temperature deltas , clear winter sky and your barn)

Since you will condition the interior space, you will primarily have heat transfer loss by conduction and convection.
Radiation cooling will also happen too.

What the other contributors' answer to your question is is true.
You have to stop conduction and convection.

For me, cry once and spend it on a combination of closed and open cell foam.
Stop all drafts... perform a blower door test to see how many air exchanges you are getting per hour.
 

billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,930
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
If you want to comply with code, keep in mind foam has to be covered. While drywall is common, there are some coatings that will make it fire retardent. Consider appearance. You may not care but plain spray foam is usually not pretty.

For the ceiling/roof, I'd look at liner panels (thin interior corrugated metal pre finished) and as much cellulose as you can afford. High and low venting (often ridge and rave) would be required. This offers a little protection from future roof leaks in that you would have to replace less than if sprayed.

For the walls, a thin layer of spray foam covered with fiberglass or rock wool - often referred to as flash and batt - is an option. The book shelf girts favor this. Than ply, drywall, OSB, liner panel, rough sawn pine (my favorite), other, on the inside. You probably could replace spray foam with diy rigid foam, seal edges with foam in a can, and get good air sealing.

Just an option with cost savings in mind. If you're contracting all of it in any case, probably not so much savings. Just not recommended to diy spray foam.
 
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