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Insulation spray foam or conventional

Bill51

New member
Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
Hi I've been reading different topics on this site for years and finally decided to join.
I have a 40x63 12ft side walls pole shed and decided to insulate and heat. I want to spray foam but can only afford 2 inches ceiling and walls or I can do conventional insulation to a higher r value with out spray foam cheaper. what way would best suit my needs ? I plan on heating at 50-60 degrees all winter. I live in central Wisconsin and it gets cold in the winter in addition I would prefer to leave trusses exposed for extra head room.
Thanks in advance.
 
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72Camaro

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Feb 2, 2020
Messages
121
Location
Tejas
I’m in Texas, drastically different weather, and I insulated to stop the heating heat. I did 1 inch of closed cell spray foam, it did the job beautifully. However, the cold seems to really penetrate, but a little kerosene heater seems to kick the cold pretty fast, at least to a manageable mid 50’s feel.

The companies down here all told me that anything more than 1 inch is a waste of money.
 

Voi

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Oct 10, 2010
Messages
5,140
Location
Western South Dakota
Some questions.

Are your eaves/ridge set up for ventilation? If not is there room for them (eave overhangs)?

Are you considering wide blanket style insulation that runs from column to column or are your walls framed in a way to allow for standard width batts? Or is additional framing needed for traditional batts?

Is there anything between the steel roofing/siding and your girts and purlins? Sheathing, house wrap, etc.
 

rok_hunter

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Joined
Apr 10, 2020
Messages
153
Location
home
Florida panhandle, 2" closed cell all around. 30x40x12 with a 36k BTU mini split. Easily cools to 70° in the summer (90° outside with heat index over 105°) and heats to 75° in the winter (25° to 40° outside).

Sent from my Pixel 2 XL using Tapatalk
 

yeldogt

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Joined
Jan 2, 2012
Messages
18,184
You will not regret getting the foam ... is 2" enough in your climate for the roof deck/ condensation. Was that recommended by an installer?

W/ foam you seal everything up .... you can always go over the foam with batts to increase R value
 

slowtx275

Member
Joined
Apr 14, 2020
Messages
14
Location
paradise, tx
I’m in Texas, drastically different weather, and I insulated to stop the heating heat. I did 1 inch of closed cell spray foam, it did the job beautifully. However, the cold seems to really penetrate, but a little kerosene heater seems to kick the cold pretty fast, at least to a manageable mid 50’s feel.

The companies down here all told me that anything more than 1 inch is a waste of money.

I've got the same...1" closed cell in Texas. Seems to be better keeping it cooler in the summer than it does keeping the cold out in the winter, but with our winter temps being in the 30's, half an hour of the torpedo heater and you are in a t-shirt. Once you get it warm, it maintains well. The old shop had the blanket insulation and the major difference I noticed was the sound deadening. I could have the music blaring, be cutting and grinding, and could hardly hear it outside. With the foam, you can clearly hear what song is playing standing outside.
 
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Dandy1008

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Oct 12, 2020
Messages
74
Location
Central, MN
If you intend to keep it heated and not just heat it while you are in there, then go with whatever will provide the best R Value. So in your case the rolled out. If you could find a way to budget for the foam to the same R Value it is a not brainer, spray foam all the way. I am you neighbor to the west (Go Twins!!!) and understand your cold.

A while back we had to have the exterior walls of our basement gutted because we found several signs of mice. They found the entry point and sealed it and we opted for spray foam. We have cedar lap siding and I was surprised how many little spots the insulation pushed through to the exterior. It seals everything, so there is a benefit there.

If you put in spray foam, I would suggest still putting in batting in the areas that you have plumbing in the event you have a leak and need to repair it. Getting pipes dug out of foam is not a treat....ask me how I know. You learn thing when you purchase a 40 year old home and remodel it. Turns out, things go wrong with age...same thing my wife probably says about me
 
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Bill51

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Joined
Dec 12, 2020
Messages
2
Location
Wisconsin
I'm sorry I should of included more info
Hanging insulation with the vinyl backing between posts is what I was thinking. I was not told by anyone how much closed cell foam to use I was just going to get what I could afford another option would be 3in in ceiling and 1.5 in side walls ?
 

SethB

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Joined
Jul 30, 2015
Messages
70
Spray foam will air seal everything. Do the 2" and then follow up with unfaced rolls of fiberglass R-30 in the attic to up the R value or blown in.

You'll never get the air sealing with fiberglass.
 

Dandy1008

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Oct 12, 2020
Messages
74
Location
Central, MN
I'm sorry I should of included more info
Hanging insulation with the vinyl backing between posts is what I was thinking. I was not told by anyone how much closed cell foam to use I was just going to get what I could afford another option would be 3in in ceiling and 1.5 in side walls ?

Since you are not putting in a ceiling to allow more headroom I would go with this option. If you were putting in a ceiling I would suggest foam in the walls and blown in in the ceiling.

If you do this it will get a good seal on everything with the foam and more insulation in the roof. As we know, heat rises. In addition it will be easier to add additional insulation to the walls later, if needed and as budget permits. That is something you could easily DIW whereas insulating the rood would be more challenging. My 2 cents.
 

My Old Tools

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Jun 4, 2014
Messages
5,434
Location
Hamrick Lake, TX
East Texas. Wide roll fiberglass with plastic backing on mine, one layer on the walls before the skin was applied (thermal break between the skin and red iron frame), double layer on the ceiling to stop the Texas summer heat. Works very well summer and winter. Up north I would probably give foam greater consideration. You can always add standard insulation over the foam if you decide you need it.
 

dcg9381

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Jun 20, 2018
Messages
11,701
Location
Austin, TX
Foam has a big advantage in that it creates a sealed envelope. 2" of foam will be fine, you may have to over power some heating - but that's going to be normal if you're not in the shop 100% of the time (IE, it's not a residence that can stay at one temperature).

You didn't say if you're using open or closed, but I've got R13-R15 worth of open cell foam in Texas and we can cool 40x60x16 to low 70s in the summer when it's 100 degrees out... That's with 3 big doors that leak quite a bit.
 
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