malibutwins
Well-known member
I have 2x4 walls r13 or r15? how much better would the r15 be?
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insulation
- Thread starter malibutwins
- Start date
HomeBrewA4
Well-known member
R15 is HD (high density) and costs a lot more then even R13.
R11 is for sound and should never be used for exterior walls. It can be, but you're spending money with little benefit. R13 is standard 2x4 insulation. R13 is also considered a higher density batt, if you look and feel the 2 (r11 and r13), there is huge difference.
I would go R13 and call around to your local insulation companies and see if you cant buy from them. Its worlds cheaper then any box store.
R11 is for sound and should never be used for exterior walls. It can be, but you're spending money with little benefit. R13 is standard 2x4 insulation. R13 is also considered a higher density batt, if you look and feel the 2 (r11 and r13), there is huge difference.
I would go R13 and call around to your local insulation companies and see if you cant buy from them. Its worlds cheaper then any box store.
HomeBrewA4
Well-known member
The code in my area is r-13 for 2x4 walls..
It wasn't that expensive, higher the better typically, what's the pricing difference?
You being in VA and if its a living space. I am not sure if you are in my (northeast) zone or not. But 2009 code changes makes us use r15 if a basement that is 75% below grade is framed 2x4. We cant even frame a house 2x4 anymore, must be 2x6.
But to answer your question... We sell R13 installed for i think its .37 a sq ft and R15 is .49 a sq ft (my sheet is at work). That isnt us making the difference either, its because all of the High Density batts are extremely overpriced.
Our 2x6 code changed to R21 from R19. r19 is .42 cents installed and R21 is over .50.
We only use Knauf EcoBat's here where I work.
HomeBrewA4
Well-known member
you could of put r8 in there and said the same thing and saved even more money. It also has to do with the size of the building. We have R30 in the walls and ceiling in my shop and the 5 torpedo heaters we have, can run all day and it doesnt stay heated for too long.
A buddies 2 car garage with no insulation will hold the heat for hours with 1 heater going (cycling off and on). At times, (winter time), I feel my space is too big and this is why. I hate working in the cold.
I know there are no insulation codes for a garage, I was answering the guy above me.
A buddies 2 car garage with no insulation will hold the heat for hours with 1 heater going (cycling off and on). At times, (winter time), I feel my space is too big and this is why. I hate working in the cold.
I know there are no insulation codes for a garage, I was answering the guy above me.
OP
malibutwins
Well-known member
It is a garage and I will be heating it with a 60000 btu hanging unit heater. It is 24x26 with 10 foot walls. I will be insulating the attic for a man room in the future.
It is a garage and I will be heating it with a 60000 btu hanging unit heater. It is 24x26 with 10 foot walls. I will be insulating the attic for a man room in the future.
Well you should always get the best you can afford, but will you notice a difference between r11 or r13 in the walls? I dont think so, but opinions vary. Ceiling is a different story.
Most folks I know here in cold country use r11 in the walls and r19 in the ceiling with a hotdog heater and they are very comfortable.
jklingel
Well-known member
To answer your question you need to first do a heat loss analysis. If only 10 btu/yr are being used, don't even insulate. If 10 million are, then insulate like crazy. You can't figure any pay-back time for thicker insulation (which fiberglass is not, really) until you do a heat loss analysis. Cellulose, cotton, or rock wool are better insulations. I just read where a "total R value" of an r13 fiberglass wall is really closer to r5. Read on buildingscience.com, greenbuildingadvisor.com, etc, about fiberglass, and leave it at the store.
pitterpat
Well-known member
I know I am reviving an old thread but it addresses a question I have. Is it going to make much difference if I put R11 insulation in vs putting R13 in my work shop garage. I bought some R11 yesterday @ Menards. This is the garage that will be the VW garage w/o heat at this time, maybe heat next year or use the small ceramic heater in it.
I have read that Roxul is better but it am not sure it is in the budget.
Thoughts?
I have read that Roxul is better but it am not sure it is in the budget.
Thoughts?
jklingel
Well-known member
FG is OK if you don't heat a lot. The more often you heat the place, and the longer, the more heat you'll lose, and the more you'll want better insulation. You'll have to calc your ROI, etc, and figure which one suits your needs.
pitterpat
Well-known member
FG is OK if you don't heat a lot. The more often you heat the place, and the longer, the more heat you'll lose, and the more you'll want better insulation. You'll have to calc your ROI, etc, and figure which one suits your needs.
Found an industrial supplier in Indy to get Roxul, will call tomorrow about $$$. That would probably be much better because next yr I probably will heat & I will be welding.
DPelletier
Well-known member
- Joined
- Oct 23, 2012
- Messages
- 170
I always use the best insulation I can find; no matter what you use it's much cheaper than energy costs and it's one of those things that can't easily be redone. The "do it once and do it right" mantra appears to apply.
I used Roxul for the last shop I built.
Dave
I used Roxul for the last shop I built.
Dave