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Integrated LED light fixture
- Thread starter 69supercj
- Start date
I thought we already answered this....
There's a few differences in the components between an LED tube and an Integrated fixture. They'll both have LED strips running the entire length with a similarly frosted lens. Neither are dimmable, which isn't a big deal. Both have similar warranties.
Pros of Integrated Fixture:
It's tiny.
Pros of LED tubes in a no-ballast fixture:
It's cheaper
You can get more lumens by using LED tubes
It's alot more efficient at around 120-130 lumens per watt
You can replace a tube if it fails.
More choices of CCT (color temp of tubes)
Also, I'd shy away from 8' products. They're too much of a pain to handle and shipping is an issue. Plus, you dont usually gain anything photometrically. Unless you have installation issues, 4' fixtures are much easier and can be spread out to give you more even results.
Good luck,
CD
There's a few differences in the components between an LED tube and an Integrated fixture. They'll both have LED strips running the entire length with a similarly frosted lens. Neither are dimmable, which isn't a big deal. Both have similar warranties.
Pros of Integrated Fixture:
It's tiny.
Pros of LED tubes in a no-ballast fixture:
It's cheaper
You can get more lumens by using LED tubes
It's alot more efficient at around 120-130 lumens per watt
You can replace a tube if it fails.
More choices of CCT (color temp of tubes)
Also, I'd shy away from 8' products. They're too much of a pain to handle and shipping is an issue. Plus, you dont usually gain anything photometrically. Unless you have installation issues, 4' fixtures are much easier and can be spread out to give you more even results.
Good luck,
CD
rwa2004
Well-known member
^^ The above response puts my thoughts perfectly.
Can I add a question tho or add my troubles? I had started bypassing ballasts and installing 4' LED tubes. The first large batch of LED lights required Hot and Neutral to be wired to 1 pin on each end of the tube ( I connected both on one end to Hot and both on the other end to Neutral). I then ordered my second batch of lights from the same manufacturer and this time they want 1 Hot and 1 Neutral on the same end of the tube (the other end does nothing).
So what is going to be the standard connection of 4' LED tubes with ballast bypass?
Can I add a question tho or add my troubles? I had started bypassing ballasts and installing 4' LED tubes. The first large batch of LED lights required Hot and Neutral to be wired to 1 pin on each end of the tube ( I connected both on one end to Hot and both on the other end to Neutral). I then ordered my second batch of lights from the same manufacturer and this time they want 1 Hot and 1 Neutral on the same end of the tube (the other end does nothing).
So what is going to be the standard connection of 4' LED tubes with ballast bypass?
The one with one wire to each end (called "double-end" powered tubes) is the standard. The single-end versions are the older technology and no longer very common in large retrofit projects.So what is going to be the standard connection of 4' LED tubes with ballast bypass?
CD
cons; when you need to replace it, you change the entire fixture, not as easy as changing a light bulb. that's enough for me to make a decision.
Okay so I went to my local Lowes this evening and everyone of their 4 foot shop lights and their one and only 8 foot lights were all integrated. Not a single fixture that had a replaceable LED bulb. Even two of the nicer commercial style fixtures I looked at were both integrated.
Okay so I went to my local Lowes this evening and everyone of their 4 foot shop lights and their one and only 8 foot lights were all integrated. Not a single fixture that had a replaceable LED bulb. Even two of the nicer commercial style fixtures I looked at were both integrated.
Sounds about right. The big box stores dont normally carry ballast-less fixtures that you can put LED tubes into. They prefer to carry the lowest quality (lowest price) product possible. If you want to use LED tubes, you'll likely have to buy them online.
CD
Falcon67
Well-known member
Cons - no real way to direct wire, no easy way to surface mount the unit. They are made strictly for chain hang/cord and plug. I have two, can't find a good use for them. I took one apart - it's a complete aluminum extrusion so I "can' surface mount it, just have to drill right through the middle. Power cord terminates in a tiny PCB on one end, not any real space to feed it with anything but the supplied integral cord. The older sheet metal type units you could pull apart and modify. May not be "cons" in other situations, just cons for me. I will likely hang them in the house garage - if I can remember where I put the chains.