Interior garage walls

[Snakecharmer383]

So I got my electric done and added my lighting. I can't see anything else changing so I'm moving onto what to do with my interior walls. Now I'm im western PA so it's cold and won't be doing anything till spring but need some advice. My garage is not heated and I don't have plans too. I'm also not insulating it. Purely cosmetic as I'm tried of looking at the studs for 5 years now. It is a 2 car detached from my house. We park our daily drivers in this garage. I occasionally do some small work. Oil changes, etc. Mostly detailing my vehicles or others as a side gig.

Main factors are looks and cost. I really don't want drywall (taping and sanding, painting) so I was thinking rough cut pine or metal (my roof is metal) or any other suggestions.

Not sure about how to handle the bottom. How to get rid of the lip? Just build it out somehow? Would i just run whatever material I use to the bottom of footer leaving block exposed? Last pic has a 2x4 sitting on bottom.

 

[racecougar]

Yes, you could fur it out if you wanted to, or just let it be.

 

[Snakecharmer383]

If I just let it be I think the lip would drive me crazy looking at it. I guess I could paint it first then whatever I go with for walls maybe it wouldn't be so bad looking. Paint the footer and block.

 

[The Cobbler]

for what you're doing with the space, I would leave as is . just let the stem wall jut out

 

[wssix99]

I would treat this like you would any hole in the drywall inside the house - cover it with artwork.

Instead of the usual dogs playing poker painting, you can purchase used billboard vinyls and hang them up.

 

[WildBill]

I would treat this like you would any hole in the drywall inside the house - cover it with artwork.

Instead of the usual dogs playing poker painting, you can purchase used billboard vinyls and hang them up.

A guy in my town was fighting with the guy next door and covered that side of his house with a giant hamburger billboard tarp, kept it there for 3-4 years. So much awesomeness.

 

[Great white]

I generally woudl face the studs out with plywood or chip boards when i didn't want to insulate and drywall. Gives you something to screw hooks and hangers into and if you feel up to it, a coat of paint can make it look pretty nice. You can even get "fancy" and add some stripes like you often see in commercial garages like at dealerships and such.

 

[billconner]

Rough saw pine. Less expensive here than ply or OSB, looks good, doesn't need painting, great for anchoring to.

 

[Ak Jim]

Why not insulate. Seems like it would be pretty inexpensive to do now.

 

[Uncle murph]

Why not insulate. Seems like it would be pretty inexpensive to do now.

This.It’s crazy to close up walls without insulation.Plans can change.

 

[Snakecharmer383]

Rough saw pine. Less expensive here than ply or OSB, looks good, doesn't need painting, great for anchoring to.

1x10x10 is $10.00 I was thinking about perhaps doing the back wall first to see if I like it. If not I can change the sides or leave the back done just in that. It's smaller size wise to do the back. I read somewhere possibly about 2 issues. 1. bugs with the wood 2. dust collecting on the rough cut. They also said to tack felt paper down on wall first before the wood. Wondering how much the wood would expand or contract with climate.

 

[Snakecharmer383]

This.It’s crazy to close up walls without insulation.Plans can change.

I don't have the room in there to ever add a heat source so just seems like a waste of money. I have 2 new rolls of R13 but didn't measure out how far those would even go.

 

[Hank11]

With insulation even a small plug in heater would make a huge difference in comfort in winter. Its easy to do now and real hard after the walls are closed.

 

[Toolfool]

I don't see anything anchoring your wall to the stem wall.

 

[Snakecharmer383]

I don't see anything anchoring your wall to the stem wall.

Not sure if that is a code here in PA. I didn't build garage so idk.

 

[racecougar]

Not sure if that is a code here in PA. I didn't build garage so idk.

Wait, there really isn't anything anchoring the walls to the stem walls? I figured the anchor bolts were just out of frame in the photos.

 

[billconner]

1x10x10 is $10.00 I was thinking about perhaps doing the back wall first to see if I like it. If not I can change the sides or leave the back done just in that. It's smaller size wise to do the back. I read somewhere possibly about 2 issues. 1. bugs with the wood 2. dust collecting on the rough cut. They also said to tack felt paper down on wall first before the wood. Wondering how much the wood would expand or contract with climate.

last summer it was 60 cents a board foot one community, 75 another. That's $5 or $6.25. How far away are you? It's the Amish problem - no Internet presence.

I've not had any insect issues. I'm sure it can collect dust. A shop vac solved it for me.

 

[Youngandfree]

Not sure if that is a code here in PA. I didn't build garage so idk.

Every wall of a structure should be secured to the foundation.

 

[Youngandfree]

I don't have the room in there to ever add a heat source so just seems like a waste of money. I have 2 new rolls of R13 but didn't measure out how far those would even go.

Having insulated walls will still make a difference vs not having it.

 

[The Wordsman]

Burnt maple plywood is going on my walls in woodworking shop, metal shop, wife’s cnc machine shop and on the floor of our Airbnb cabin. Was gonna use sheet metal but cost was prohibitive

 

[billconner]

Hard to believe the stick framed part is just sitting on the stem walls with no anchors what so ever. Wonder what that metal is in far left of the diagonal picture? And doesn't quite look like OSB.

 

[The Wordsman]

 

[The Wordsman]

Just learned about it.

 

[CraigStu]

You could do drywall w/o mud and tape. I am pretty sure that drywall is going to be the least expensive 4x8 sheet you can find. Fit it nicely and paint it. Another option is old school paneling. L and HD have some that is about an 1/8" thick kind of an off white w/ a pattern reminiscient of 1x6 wood.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oak-47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Embossed-White-Oak-Wall-Panel/1000937538

Fake beadboard too

https://www.lowes.com/pd/47-75-in-x-7-98-ft-Beaded-White-Wall-Panel/3031277

There are also some plastic sheets available.

 

[driftpin]

I also suggest insulation and drywall. Once it's done you're going to be very happy it's over. The space will be much-more comfortable for the cold months. As mentioned, even a smaller capacity heater will make a difference.

 

[mike93lx]

Not sure if that is a code here in PA. I didn't build garage so idk.

Now is the time to fix it if there aren't any.

If there are no bolts, add some. Simpson titen HD, heck even some large tap cons.

Don't just shrug it off

 

[u2slow]

I wouldn't close up the walls unless I insulated first. I wouldn't use drywall in an unheated space.

Imho, leave the concrete stem wall exposed. The way it works in my shop is anything I have against the wall has a gap behind to run whatever cord, cable, pipe, etc.

 

[Renegade1LI]

I agree with most , insulate it's still fairly cheap & easy, you never know. If you have the power available a cheap ceiling hung electric unit works well .

 

[Toolfool]

Wait, there really isn't anything anchoring the walls to the stem walls? I figured the anchor bolts were just out of frame in the photos.

Looks like at least 6' of wall without an anchor, not to mention the ends of the two bottom plates.

 

[Monza Harry]

The back 20' of the piece of my garage that I moved here had the bottom plate appear to be un-anchored! The bottom plate was pretty rotten but when lifted the bottom plate had nails (porcupined) part way in, and were placed into the wet concrete when placed. Anchored yes, visible no, code compliant (196x) F@$$Eed if I know! Yes it was interesting lifting that up! Harry

 

[Snakecharmer383]

Honestly I have never looked at this as far as anchoring. Does make me wonder for sure. Would more pics of corners help to perhaps show or give more info about this? I do tend to be leaning towards insulation at this point. It will give me something to do over winter on warmer days.

 

[racecougar]

Honestly I have never looked at this as far as anchoring. Does make me wonder for sure. Would more pics of corners help to perhaps show or give more info about this? I do tend to be leaning towards insulation at this point. It will give me something to do over winter on warmer days.

Have a look at your sill plate all the way around. If there aren't anchors, there aren't anchors (which is nuts).

 

[The Cobbler]

yes, it will be easy to tell if there are anchors or not, by looking. usually they are 1/2" anchor bolts set in the concrete, or in your case the block cores. they protrude thru the bottom sill plate & have nuts & washers on them

 

[ipgenie]

I've seen straps used instead of bolts. I haven't used them but I assume they are embedded in the concrete foundation and attached to the exterior sheathing/framing before being covered with siding.

Maybe not the case here but worth checking.

 

[Snakecharmer383]

I've seen straps used instead of bolts. I haven't used them but I assume they are embedded in the concrete foundation and attached to the exterior sheathing/framing before being covered with siding.

Maybe not the case here but worth checking.

I was digging this summer near the one corner and about 6" down came across what now makes me think of a strap. Wonder if that's what that was.... It was def. not going anywhere and running under the block.

 

[Bolson32]

There's a place that sells primed LP smartside panels for $30 a sheet here, I'm going to put those on my garage interior now and just roll paint. Drywall labor to hang tape and mud is $50-60 a sheet around here, so it'll be less than that, and more durable. Granted I'll have to do it, but it's pretty easy.

 

[onewheat]

I wouldn't have any problem leaving the block exposed and just setting the plywood/OSB/drywall or whatever down on it. I'm not sure where you are located, but I'd insulate it at this point. It's not that much $$ and it would help a lot in the winter if you're working in there and also help some if you're sun-exposed in the summer to keep some heat out.

 

[tjpavlov]

Insulating will also help you with noise. Not sure what kind of neighborhood you live in, but I would Rockwool the space.

 

[johnre]

One more vote here for insulating now. Even if you don't heat or cool the place, it will help moderate the temperature extremes.

Regarding the bottom, leave it be - or at most, just run a small piece of quarter round at the bottom of the wall sheathing. These areas take a beating with tools, etc. being set on the ledge, and it will soon show wear and tear. The concrete footer and wooden sill plate will stand up well to it; anything like wall sheathing you try to cover it with, not so much.

 

[Metal-Marc]

With insulation even a small plug in heater would make a huge difference in comfort in winter. Its easy to do now and real hard after the walls are closed.

Insulating now adds value to the property when you decide to sell.