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Interior garage walls

Trapps

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Feb 10, 2017
Messages
1,999
Location
The Detroit Zoo
Insulation
Plywood

Ply is easy to source, relatively inexpensive, requires no mud/tape, can be repaired easily, is infinitely configurable with all manner of attachments, cleats and simply screwing to it. Paintable if you want.

:beer:
 
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Snakecharmer383

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
179
$14.65 a sheet. Painting Im guessing would take alot since it probably ***** it up alot. 2 coat minimum.
 

bottom feeder

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
331
Location
Utah
Insulation in the walls is good. Insulation in the ceiling is even better. When I built my 2 car attached garage I was on a strict budget and got talked out of insulating the walls (but I did drywall them, and also the ceiling.)

Years later I added Insulation in the ceiling, and occasionally heat the space with a 5000 watt 240V heater that hangs from the ceiling in one of the corners and doesn't take up any useful space or get in the way. I only turn on the heat if I'm working out there. Even without insulation in the walls the heater can maintain tee shirt working temps in the middle of winter and it doesn't run non-stop either.
 

Montauket

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 25, 2023
Messages
133
Do a search and see if there is a habitat for humanity store near you. Contractors and DIY’ers drop off excess material from jobs for a tax break. You may be able to score some nice stuff on the cheap. Check Craigslist or the market place for materials if you’re short on cash. I would agree with the others insulation is cheap and would add value. Also agree a small plug in heater for the winter would do wonders to take the nip out And it does need need to cost a lot.
 

rwilly

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
114
Location
maple valley wa
I called a guy from Craigslist that offered lumber milled on his portable sawmill. I asked him to slice up cottonwood at 3/4” x8”.

Cottonwood in plentiful around here.

It’s more of a personal thing with me, Cottonwood is pretty much useless for anything other than maybe pulp?
I’ve read of barns built with it, it’s used as frame for cheap furniture.
As long as it’s kept dry, it should last.

Why it isnt used more as an interior wood, I don’t know. Maybe I’ll find out the hard way.
 
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svhamelly

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 30, 2021
Messages
156
Location
North Carolina
I'd definitely insulate it, maybe use some 4 inch groove plywood paneling, put side walls with grooves going vertical and front wall maybe with grooves going horizontal just for an interesting look.
I'd paint the floor and run the paint right up the stem wall.
Whatever you do will definitely look better than studs!
Oh yes and if you don't have anchors on the sill plate, I'd definitely do that, check the local code just to get an idea of how many you need.
You do need to hope they filled the voids in the blocks of the stem wall.
They just drill and hammer some of these in... slightly more than a buck a piece and doubt you'd need 30 of them.
 

bb29510

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 27, 2022
Messages
1,216
insulate and plywwod walls, keep the plwood coupl inches off the concrete slab
 

rwilly

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 26, 2009
Messages
114
Location
maple valley wa
The lip ain’t going to look all that bad. You won’t even notice it after awhile.
I am going to do my back wall with OSB on the bottom 4 feet in case back up too far.
 

BombShelter

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 16, 2015
Messages
543
Location
State of Hockey
That's wild that that the walls aren't bolted down, I've never seen that before and I've seen thousands of garages up close. They all have that 3/4" lip on the bottom course of block, unfortunately this is a dirt haven.

I used mineral wool on mine, I hate fiberglass insulation, it gets moldy and nasty. Mineral wool has so many good qualities, it's worth the added cost.
 
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Snakecharmer383

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Joined
Sep 2, 2022
Messages
179
insulate and plywwod walls, keep the plwood coupl inches off the concrete slab
I wasn't planning on running the material down to the cement floor. I'd run it to the sill plate. Is the gap your talking about due to moisture?
 
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