Interior lighting layout and circuit questions for 40x64

[dbldmnd]

I've been searching and reading numerous posts on how to configure the garage lighting, but I've still got some questions. I'm hoping the members here can help me out.

I am working on the electrical design for my new post frame style garage building. The details are 40' x 64' x 14' sidewall height. It has scissor trusses, 2.5 interior slope so the center of the building has around 18' ceiling height. Overhead doors are on the 40' gable ends, also 3 man doors. The building is built and doors are installed. I'm hoping to get concrete and electrical done this summer/fall.

I've been using the visual interior design tool that is linked in the sticky to get an idea of a reasonable lighting layout. Based on what I have read here, the lighting analysis program and a friends recommendation, I'm thinking the 2 foot linear highbay style lights, 4000k, 12000-18000 lumens in a 3 by 4 pattern would work. I'm thinking 2 circuits/zones of 6 lights.

From what I understand, the code says you need an interior light control switch by each man door to turn on an interior light when you enter the building. With 2 light ciruits/zones, that means I will have 3 way switches by each door. There will be a main door that will have switches for both circuits/zones.

With the highbay lights, I am planning on running the 0-10V dimming function for the lights. This means a dimmer for each circuit/zone.

And it would be nice to possibly control the lights from my phone. I don't need to control the dimming from the phone, but to switch them on/off would be helpful. This leads me to a smart switch for the 120V common/hot line.

Then the code says that the 120V wires need to be in a physically different box than the 10V dimming wiring. Researching smart switches, it seems they have a dimming function in them, which combines the 120V and 10V low voltage functions, which seems to violate the code requirements to keep them separate.

Then when I start reviewing the specs on the smart swtches/dimmers, I'm finding that using 6 lights over 110W, are exceeding the limits on most the switches. I have found a few switches like the Leviton IP710 with 1200W rating that could work, but its not a smart type switch.

The lights that ron_j posted in his thread look good and have a great price, but might not be bright enough for my space in my 3 x 4 grid.

There seems to be a balance that I haven't found yet. Lights that are bright enough but not too bright and have a low enough power rating to combine a number of them that can be controlled by a smart dimmer switch.

Am I asking too much from the current technology? Do you use products that conflict with the code? Has anyone figured out a system like I am envisioning?

I look forward to hearing any and all ideas on this one.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Max fixture spacing is 14ft (assuming you're hanging them all at 14'), thus absolute min qty of of fixtures at any lumen output = 15 in a 3x5 pattern. You didn't state the purpose of the space or surface finish.

Qty. 24 12000 lumen medium distribution fixtures in a 4x6 pattern yields 91fc @ 30" work plane with standard 70|50|20 Cieling|Wall|Floor reflectance.
If your ceiling and walls are bare wood the reflectance changes to 20|20|20 and the same layout yields 78fc ...

At 14ft you'd be better off with a higher lumen fixture like this one (link to lowest cost fixture). If you want longer life, you'll have to spend more.

I can't answer your code question, but Lutron makes all kinds of remote dimmers (link).

 

[cybrdyke]

You dont need to do all of that wiring.
Use 1 Lutron Vive Powpak for each zone. It will mount on the junction box for that zone.
Run power wires to the Powpak and then to the fixtures like normal.
Run control wires from fixtures to the Powpak. You can use a special MC cable for this that has your power wires and control wires inside it for a neat job. https://www.homedepot.com/p/MC-Lite-Luminary-250-ft-16-2-TPJ-12-2-MC-Lite-Luminary-Coil-18BF-42-500/300690882?mtc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_4_WIRE-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-WIRE&cm_mmc=Shopping-B-F_D27E-G-D27E-27_4_WIRE-NA-NA-Feed-PLA-NA-NA-WIRE-71700000034238975-58700003946879302-92700050456676694&gclid=CjwKCAjw57b3BRBlEiwA1Imytlq_HIdnTVCTh7ldy_8R0qAYJRlbPINqru49ns82Oy-3h6LLPR4MZhoCQKsQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.dsOr, you can run the control wires separate from the power wires. They can be in the same conduit if their jacket is rated 600v, like THHN.
Get 5 or 6 pico remote controls and 3 wall mount kits. Mount one pico at each door that will control your zones as you see fit. You can make one run one zone and one run a second zone. Or, you can make one run both zones. Keep one by your workbench and one in your pocket. Whatever works for you.
http://www.lutron.com/TechnicalDocumentLibrary/367-2597_Vive_Design_Guide.pdf
Good luck.
CD

 

[nadogail]

IMHO, lighting should be designed for the intended use of the structure. After you lay out on paper whew the areas you will want more lighting, install it during construction even before the machinery is installed.

After the overhead work is done the machines are installed.

Basically with Proper Prior Planning, Poor Performance is Prevented.

 

[sberry]

I got a switched light at the walk doors but I never use it. I got about 10 fixtures in the ceilings generally where they help all on local switches and a couple 13 watt cfl hanging down from ceiling and can walk anywhere in the place and do some function without ever toughie a switch.
Some of the new gadgets are nice but ain't nothing as good as running a wire from a simple switch for common stuff.
Same for my office/coffee, I do have larger fixture if aND when but 13 watts let's me move and common task without switching. Got a motion or 2 also. Only switching I do is pretty much local/task.

 

[sberry]

I like some after, where the machines benches are, down lower, some can be serviced or changed from step ladder or stool. I got all the overhead on clamps, cord and plug.

 

[dbldmnd]

Thanks everyone for the res[onses. The Lutron vive system looks interesting, I'll dig into it a bit more.

Additional information on my garage is I plan on doing personal car service and light restoration. Interior finish will be probably be white and grey painted OSB for the walls and white metal liner panels on the ceiling. So it should have decent reflectance.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[sberry]

40x64 is pretty respectable. Nice size, with the doors in the ends it makes a nice 2 car wide work garage. You can get 2 long in on occasion and still have a little room for tools. My bud had 30x 40 he worked out of, it was too narrow. It wouldn't have been so tight even at 40 wide, it was always cramped.

 

[That Guy Scott]

Thanks everyone for the res[onses. The Lutron vive system looks interesting, I'll dig into it a bit more.

Additional information on my garage is I plan on doing personal car service and light restoration. Interior finish will be probably be white and grey painted OSB for the walls and white metal liner panels on the ceiling. So it should have decent reflectance.


Sent from my iPhone using The Garage Journal mobile app

Check out this guys build thread. He used the Lutron stuff in his build. I plan on using it on mine after seeing his. I’ve Also noticed it Used in quite a few commercial buildings I’ve visited.

Post 51
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=413162&page=3

 

[dbldmnd]

A follow up on the lighting plan I have come up with.

I have decided to go with some type of LED highbay light fixture, probably a 2 foot linear 150W with around 20000lm. Looking over platonic solids recommendations, something like this in a 3x4 configuration will give around 90fc at the work surface. To start out I will install 8 lights in a 2x4 layout and see what it looks like and go from there.

For the lighting circuit, I am planning on a 3x4 receptacle layout. I was previously hung up on 2 zones of 6 and with 150W fixtures I was exceeding the current specification on the switches. Thinking through this more, I will run the wire for 4 zones of 3 receptacles. This configuration will keep the max current under the switch limits.

For the lighting control I have decided on the Lutron caseta system using PD-6ANS switches that have a current limit of 6 A. These can easily control 3 or 4 150W highbay lights. I'll also use a Lutron diva DVSTV 0-10V dimmer/switches to control the dimmer function of the highbay lights. For 3 way control I will use the Lutron pico wireless remotes that will communicate to the caseta switches through the RF link. This setup will meet code for door entry lighting and it simplifies the wiring as I don't have to physically run the 3 way supply/control wires. When I get internet access I will add the smart bridge and that will give the lighting on/off control from my phone. I won't be able to dim the lights from the phone as the diva dimmers don't have RF communication, but that's ok.

I did check out the Lutron vive system and that would work through a combination of the powpak controllers and the pico remotes. It had a comparable cost to caseta system I plan on using, but it got very expensive if you wanted the internet wifi control, the vive smart hub was around $1500 to add that function.

With my current plan, I can now do my rough wiring. I'll install 4 zones of 3 receptacles. Then I will tie 2 zones together at the switch that will control 4 150W lights. So I will start with 2 switches and 2 dimmers. If I need more lighting, I will install 2 more switches and dimmers and connect up 4 more lights, so each zone has 3 lights. All while staying within the current limits of the PD-6ANS switches.

Thanks everyone for you ideas and help.