kaiser715
Well-known member
My shop is a red-iron metal building, 42x60x16.5 (eave). Walls are R-13 white vinyl backed, and ceiling is R32. Location is central NC.
I am putting in interior partitions to divide work areas, approximately 20x20, 21x60, and 20x40. Highest partition (to the peak) is 21.5-ish feet. I have used 3.5" lightweight steel studs and track to frame the interior partitions. Strapped at 4' horizontal intervals with 7/8" tall hat channel. Both sides of the partition walls will be covered in metal "R" panels.
Will likely in future add a couple of Modine LP heaters hung from the ceilings in the main shop and welding room. Could see a minisplit eventually going in the 20x20 weld room, but not in the near term.
The question comes with insulation in the interior partitions. Cheap and simple is putting unfaced f/g between the studs. With the horizontal hat channels, I will have an almost 1" air gap under the metal on either side. Someone mentioned the other day that I could instead put 1" polyiso foam on top of the studs, between the rows of hat channel, immediately under the metal panels, on both sides of the wall, leave the interior cavity empty, and probably have a more efficient assembly. Spray foam is out, budget-wise.
Ideas, comments, suggestions?
I am putting in interior partitions to divide work areas, approximately 20x20, 21x60, and 20x40. Highest partition (to the peak) is 21.5-ish feet. I have used 3.5" lightweight steel studs and track to frame the interior partitions. Strapped at 4' horizontal intervals with 7/8" tall hat channel. Both sides of the partition walls will be covered in metal "R" panels.
Will likely in future add a couple of Modine LP heaters hung from the ceilings in the main shop and welding room. Could see a minisplit eventually going in the 20x20 weld room, but not in the near term.
The question comes with insulation in the interior partitions. Cheap and simple is putting unfaced f/g between the studs. With the horizontal hat channels, I will have an almost 1" air gap under the metal on either side. Someone mentioned the other day that I could instead put 1" polyiso foam on top of the studs, between the rows of hat channel, immediately under the metal panels, on both sides of the wall, leave the interior cavity empty, and probably have a more efficient assembly. Spray foam is out, budget-wise.
Ideas, comments, suggestions?