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Interior tin walls

Bradbilt

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Mar 8, 2018
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162
Location
Gilbert PA
Ok, I just can't seem to get it thru my head.
how do I put the corrugated tin on my inside walls?

Do I need to put purlins on the inside of my 2x6 studded garage?
24" on center
 
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finn

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Mar 27, 2005
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The UP, God's country
My shop has purlins under the steel. I think they are 1x4”, or 1”x6”, but I don’t remember which for sure.

The roof has typical 2”x4” purlins. The outside walls (studs on 16” centers) are 1”x4” or 1”x6” too, if I am not mistaken, but the pole addition is 2”x4”.
 

billie

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May 11, 2019
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The Kootenays
Ok, I just can't seem to get it thru my head.
how do I put the corrugated tin on my inside walls?

Do I need to put purlins on the inside of my 2x6 studded garage?
24" on center

Are you mounting the panels vertcial or horizontal. You need support perpendicular to the ribs. Most steel suppliers will tell you what works best with their products.
 

seanc_mt

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Jul 20, 2015
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OSB underneath. Gives way more strength to the steel. Don't know why you would ever used purlins compared to OSB.
 
OP
B

Bradbilt

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Gilbert PA
osb underneath. Gives way more strength to the steel. Don't know why you would ever used purlins compared to osb.

COST
And besides, how much strength do you need for tin to screw to?
That would be like putting OSB on the roof before the tin and OSB outside before the tin as well
 

850xpeps

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COST
And besides, how much strength do you need for tin to screw to?
That would be like putting OSB on the roof before the tin and OSB outside before the tin as well



He’s probably suggestion it to add strength to the wall if you happen to hit it with a tool or vehicle. It would take an impact much better.

My roof has plywood under the tin. For a few reasons. It’s my house and the tin being on plywood instead of purlons keeps the noise down. Second I don’t have to be careful where I step because my entire roof is supported.

On a shop roof that’s a different story. But never say never.


You can strap with 1x4 then screw the tin to that. I haven’t seen wall tin run horizontal before but I can imagine it wouldn’t look right to me. Not to mention every rib would hold dust and would look bad. And it is probably a little tougher to install I would guess. Not to mention a joint in the wall on long walls.
 
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MushCreek

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Upstate South Carolina
If you run the tin horizontally, you could screw it directly to the studs. Vertically, you would need purlins. Without anything behind it, the tin would dent very easily, thus the advice of sheathing it with OSB first. Of course, that greatly increases the cost and effort. Some people run tin for the first 4 feet or so to protect a flammable wall like OSB from sparks. It's prefinished, and magnets stick to it, which can be handy. You could run OSB for the first 4 feet, then purlins the rest of the way up if you wanted all tin with dent resistance where it's most likely to occur.
 

finn

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The UP, God's country
If you run the tin horizontally, you could screw it directly to the studs. Vertically, you would need purlins. Without anything behind it, the tin would dent very easily, thus the advice of sheathing it with OSB first. Of course, that greatly increases the cost and effort. Some people run tin for the first 4 feet or so to protect a flammable wall like OSB from sparks. It's prefinished, and magnets stick to it, which can be handy. You could run OSB for the first 4 feet, then purlins the rest of the way up if you wanted all tin with dent resistance where it's most likely to occur.

That’s how my shop is set up: painted Osb on the bottom 8’, purlins and vertical tin on the top 8’.

I also agree that horizontal tin will be a dust collector, so I would suggest vertical. The tin flashing, j channel or whatever in my shop separating the osb from the tin always has a thick layer of dust.
 

850xpeps

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That’s how my shop is set up: painted Osb on the bottom 8’, purlins and vertical tin on the top 8’.



I also agree that horizontal tin will be a dust collector, so I would suggest vertical. The tin flashing, j channel or whatever in my shop separating the osb from the tin always has a thick layer of dust.



My shop will most likely have 3/4” plywood for bottom 8’. Then tin above. And have the tin lap down the plywood with no flashing or a small drip.
 

lakeroadster

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Jan 19, 2015
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Central Colorado
I had a bunch of 1/2" plywood pieces left over from some previous projects. From the floor up to about 36" I used solid plywood. Above that point I cut the plywood into strips that spanned the 16" o/c vertical studs.

Then screwed the corrugated steel to the plywood.

This makes it very strong in the areas near the floor where it will get banged into.

All the steel I used was recycled, so it had existing holes. The plywood allowed me to use the holes that were already in the steel.

I also have some of the steel ribs running horizontally over in the storage area of the barn. The ribs hold filth, as others have already stated.
 

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maydaymike

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Feb 4, 2012
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Mine is run horizontally. Walls are 2x6 studs on 16" centers. There are no splices or joints on the long walls. The longest unbroken wall is about 29'.
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Jackfre

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Dec 26, 2010
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N CA
I have 1/2" plywood walls and ran flat gale. sheet metal panels (from local HVAC distributor) horizontally up to 4'. I did this only in the metal working area but it went in nicely and looks good.
 

bowhuntr311

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Aug 3, 2016
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135
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North Central Minnesota
Purlins. As others have said.

I went and bought the cheapest 1x4s I could get and screwed them to the studs. Top bottom and 2 in between. All evenly spaced on my 10foot wall keeping my bottom one up about 1/4 of inch so if water made it to the outside wall it wouldnt wick it up. Lots of people tried telling me to just run my steel horizontal; my small amount OCD isnt gonna let that happen. The dust that would collect on the top of the ribs would drive me insane.
 

canuckian

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May 7, 2009
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East coast of Canaaada
here's one side of my shop before the wall material went up.

image_zpsf72ed379.jpg


here's the finished walls
image_zpsb09f381d.jpg
 
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