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Interior Wall Finish Considerations

crooney1189

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Hernando, FL
Looking for some feedback from others who have finished the inside of their garages with either wood, drywall or metal panels.

This will be a metal panel over tube steel structure in FL. 30'x50'x14' with 14 ga 2-1/2"x2-1/2" tube steel columns on 4' centers. Strongly leaning towards spray foam as the space will be conditioned, if not spray foam then I'll look towards rigid insulation boards. Garage will be used for typical automotive hobby purposes.

I'll be looking to cover the spray foam on all walls (and likely roof) wherever possible. The lower 8' of the walls will be wood (likely 1/2") for ease of hanging things. Currently going back and forth between the nicer finish of plywood vs the cheaper cost of OSB.

The roof and wall space above that 8' mark is what I'm looking for input on. I like the idea of using finished metal panels above but worried about the space becoming more prone to being a noisier environment. I do have neighbors in relatively close proximity, so sound is somewhat of a concern (and additional sound protection is another benefit I'm considering on the spray foam route too). I also assume this metal panel route will be the most expensive route.

I also thought about going drywall at those upper spaces, but I'm not crazy about the idea of having to spackle, sand, etc. that much area, much less that much area that I can't just walk up to and stand and work on. I'll need some sort of scaffolding/lift which will slow me down and extend the project.

Wondering if maybe just continuing with wood is the best option at the overhead spaces. Maybe drop down to thinner plywood overhead as long as it won't be prone to bowing,

For anyone that has gone down one of these paths, what are your thoughts?
 
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carlaisle

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May 14, 2022
Messages
369
Spray foam will not provide the sound attenuation you hope to hear from your structure. 4' on center vertical supports will prove disappointing with anything other than steel. You need additional vertical studs or horizontal strapping/girts. For ease of installation, I would ask if I could buy some additional columns from the manufacturer. After time and materials, they may prove the superior choice. For the ceiling, if you are going to span 4', anything other than metal will sag. Nice thing about drywall is that it is easy to repair and does not burn.
 

LopezBart

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Joined
Oct 13, 2023
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2,529
Location
Lopez Island, WA
Can you use fire-resistant paint sprayed on the ceiling surfaces? If so, this would cut materials and labor significantly. I'd using wooden framing installed before the foam between the frames to attach your plywood. Cover the studs w/ cheap duct/painters tape before spraying and you'll have a nice flat surface for the plywood.
 

billconner

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Joined
Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,948
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I don't think readily available in Florida but with same situation here, I'd use rough sawn pine. Would easily span the 4', better holding for screws and nails than 1/2" ply, and inexpensive hear. Right to ceiling. Good looking.
 

Firebrick43

Well-known member
Joined
May 12, 2015
Messages
14,005
Location
West central Indiana
Looking for some feedback from others who have finished the inside of their garages with either wood, drywall or metal panels.

This will be a metal panel over tube steel structure in FL. 30'x50'x14' with 14 ga 2-1/2"x2-1/2" tube steel columns on 4' centers. Strongly leaning towards spray foam as the space will be conditioned, if not spray foam then I'll look towards rigid insulation boards. Garage will be used for typical automotive hobby purposes.

I'll be looking to cover the spray foam on all walls (and likely roof) wherever possible. The lower 8' of the walls will be wood (likely 1/2") for ease of hanging things. Currently going back and forth between the nicer finish of plywood vs the cheaper cost of OSB.

The roof and wall space above that 8' mark is what I'm looking for input on. I like the idea of using finished metal panels above but worried about the space becoming more prone to being a noisier environment. I do have neighbors in relatively close proximity, so sound is somewhat of a concern (and additional sound protection is another benefit I'm considering on the spray foam route too). I also assume this metal panel route will be the most expensive route.

I also thought about going drywall at those upper spaces, but I'm not crazy about the idea of having to spackle, sand, etc. that much area, much less that much area that I can't just walk up to and stand and work on. I'll need some sort of scaffolding/lift which will slow me down and extend the project.

Wondering if maybe just continuing with wood is the best option at the overhead spaces. Maybe drop down to thinner plywood overhead as long as it won't be prone to bowing,

For anyone that has gone down one of these paths, what are your thoughts?
Are your panels on the outside ran vertically for the roof and walls or horizontally?
 
OP
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crooney1189

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Hernando, FL
Spray foam will not provide the sound attenuation you hope to hear from your structure. 4' on center vertical supports will prove disappointing with anything other than steel. You need additional vertical studs or horizontal strapping/girts. For ease of installation, I would ask if I could buy some additional columns from the manufacturer. After time and materials, they may prove the superior choice. For the ceiling, if you are going to span 4', anything other than metal will sag. Nice thing about drywall is that it is easy to repair and does not burn.
Regarding the sound, I know it won't be perfect and that you WILL still hear noise outside the building, but anything is better than the bare metal in that regard. The spray foam will add rigidity to the metal and should have the same effect as sound deadening in vehicles. And to a lesser extend, I'd expect even rigid foam boards to help somewhat for sound.

I suppose I could ask about pricing on additional framing members. Possibly look to do an additional horizontal member at 8' to catch the top of the boards, and then run another vertical in between the others, making for 2' spans instead of 4' at the lower portion of the walls. I'd have to imagine that would be sufficient.

Sagging was also one of my concerns at the ceiling.

Can you use fire-resistant paint sprayed on the ceiling surfaces? If so, this would cut materials and labor significantly. I'd using wooden framing installed before the foam between the frames to attach your plywood. Cover the studs w/ cheap duct/painters tape before spraying and you'll have a nice flat surface for the plywood.
Paint was a thought as long as I found something that wasn't reactive to the insulation. I wanted a white finish up top for more reflectivity. It would theoretically help cover the color of the insulation, but my other concern was the rough texture of the foam just looking dirty and dingy over time as dust collects. A smooth surface would resist that better, and would be easier to clean.

I don't think readily available in Florida but with same situation here, I'd use rough sawn pine. Would easily span the 4', better holding for screws and nails than 1/2" ply, and inexpensive hear. Right to ceiling. Good looking.
You're correct, the rough sawn pine isn't very common here (which is kind of surprising given how many pine trees we have). My boss was actually looking for some to take to his cabin in GA, and he only found one mill locally that even had it, and they only ran orders for it every couple months. I'm not sure what he paid but I could ask.

Are your panels on the outside ran vertically for the roof and walls or horizontally?
The building will have a vertical roof and horizontal wall panels.
 

billconner

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Jul 20, 2021
Messages
6,948
Location
Thousand Islands NYS
I'm not sure what he paid but I could ask.
Around here 60 to 75 ¢ bf - so $19.20-$24.00 for 4x8. Hard to beat especially because it looks good with no finishing.

The spray foam will add rigidity to the metal and should have the same effect as sound deadening in vehicles.
A little but mass and resilency are the desirable attributes. Rigid foam is not much good. It's stiff and transmits sound like a taut string between 2 tin cans. Dense pack with cellulose is great for stopping sound transmission.
 
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crooney1189

Active member
Joined
Sep 27, 2017
Messages
34
Location
Hernando, FL
Found out a little more information which may be helpful to others as well. I reached back out to Carolina Carport to ask about ordering additional framing members this way I could go back and fill in the voids with intermediate members, and the 14ga 2-1/2"x2-1/2" steel tubing sells for $4.10/ft, which would add up quickly.

I also asked what finished metal wall panels would cost, and they told me $5.26/ft, again adding up quick.

At this point I think I may look at getting 3/4" (23/32") tongue & groove OSB and laying that horizontally across the 4' spans of the vertical framing members. The T&G should add additional rigidity, and a 4'x8' sheet is currently $24 at HD for example. With caulked seams and paint it should look decent I would think, and being 3/4" thick I really shouldn't have too much trouble hanging most items. Should be a little easier on the budget, and saves me from all the finishing work of doing drywall, not to mention running all of the intermediates for drywall.

Will probably grab a couple sheets to experiment with once the building is up to make sure the walls will be rigid enough, as I'm expecting they will be.
 
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acer66

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Joined
Dec 4, 2010
Messages
4,418
Location
Western North Carolina
I'm a fan of liner panel for its ease/speed of install, fire resistance, and final appearance. The building did have an echo when it was empty and prior to insulating the ceiling; that went away as soon as the ceiling was insulated (R-55 of blown fiberglass) and the building filled.

IMG_6635.JPG
Interesting, I never thought insulation would dampen the echo issue so I might have to reconsider.

Thank you.
 

dcg9381

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Joined
Jun 20, 2018
Messages
11,660
Location
Austin, TX
Spray foam will not provide the sound attenuation you hope to hear from your structure. 4' on center vertical supports will prove disappointing with anything other than steel. You need additional vertical studs or horizontal strapping/girts. For ease of installation, I would ask if I could buy some additional columns from the manufacturer. After time and materials, they may prove the superior choice. For the ceiling, if you are going to span 4', anything other than metal will sag. Nice thing about drywall is that it is easy to repair and does not burn.

I did the first 16' (vertical) or so in OSB. Open cell spray foam behind it. Open cell attenuates sound, closed cell does not, but there are better options than spray foam if you want to drop dB.

I "framed" out from the red iron with 2x4s, 16" OC or so. Enough to keep the wall covering straight. You can frame it "in" too.

The main reason for using OSB was that I'm not "done" with what is behind the walls. I can pull "panels" and re-route plumbing, electrical, whatever... And you can add more insulation if you're so inclined.

OSB took 2 coats of high quality paint to make it look right. The added bonus is that I drive screws into OSB to hang things.

I think the metal trimmed interiors are better looking, but at the "cost" of WAY more labor.. And no one has ever been critical of the "shop kitchen" etc.

Here's a look at it while I was building it out...

1729126067797.png
 

86scotty

Member
Joined
Apr 19, 2018
Messages
8
I am considering open cell spray foam above the 8' mark in my 16' sidewall building about to go up. Up to 8' I'm still also looking for a solution. The rough pine idea and pic above is great. I have tons of pine trees to mill but that will be too green unfortunately.

Anyone else have pics of this idea? Really anything up to 8' line with spray foam above.
 
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