Interior wall studs and T1-11

[Lph008]

Has anyone used t1-11 for the interior walls in pole barn? 24x36x12 I'm trying to decide if it would be better to install regular vertical studs or bookshelf girts 24" o/c.
My questioning comes into play when I think about the joints and a flat service for the tongue/groove to go together. Will bookshelf girts 24"oc be ok or would I need to land the seams on a vertical stud for a good seamless joint?

 

[CraigStu]

If your joint misses a stud, you can screw a 1x3 behind the joint so it is screwed to both panels. I did that when using T1-11 to enclose under our deck. I had four 6x6 deck posts and the 2x10 across the top to support the siding. If I had added horizontal girts the T1-11 would have been out to the outer edge of the 2x10 at the top vs butting up to the underside edge which I could caulk. 1x3s (in this case PT) formed my unsupported sheeting joints.

 

[Lph008]

But what I'm asking is.. do I need to stud regular walls or can I do bookshelf (horizontal) girts? The t1-11 will be installed vertical so my joints would be nailed every 2ft.
Does that make sense ?

 

[wesst]

I just finished using vertical 16” on center. I used LP smartsiding in the “T1-11” pattern at 7/16” thick.

It went up fine and was primed from the factory. It would probably work with 24” on center horizontally, but it would be near the limit (in my subjective opinion) for having tight seams between the sheets.

 

[rayra]

But what I'm asking is.. do I need to stud regular walls or can I do bookshelf (horizontal) girts? The t1-11 will be installed vertical so my joints would be nailed every 2ft.
Does that make sense ?

if your horizontal girts are spaced vertically every 2', that should be sufficient. But depending on their span between building posts, they will droop and your T1-11 should not be placed in contact with the ground / slab. So in teh sense of a 'normal' wall framing, you'll want something like a sill plate or wider girt on the bottom run and space the T1-11 so it doesn't touch the ground. And hang your other girts so the top edge of the T1-11 sheet is also supported.

 

[LopezBart]

You might also consider putting in blocking between the girts from the sill plate up in the center between building posts. This could be 2x4 sideways as it just keeps the girts from sagging. This would cut the droop down by a lot (factor of 8 I think). I'd also put a spacer under the t1-11 to keep it off the floor; once it's nailed to all the girts it's not going to move.

 

[The Cobbler]

If that was mine, I wouldn't hesitate to install in on 24"O/C girts , with a small block screwed to each panel in the centers to keep the seams from flexing

 

[Lph008]

I just finished using vertical 16” on center. I used LP smartsiding in the “T1-11” pattern at 7/16” thick.

It went up fine and was primed from the factory. It would probably work with 24” on center horizontally, but it would be near the limit (in my subjective opinion) for having tight seams between the sheets.

Any pictures? I'm also looking at the primed t1-11, trying to decide if I want to go with that or sanded ply..?

 

[nh_yota]

You frame the wall out the same way you would if you were hanging drywall - you want all the edges of a board to land on lumber - whether that's vertical studs, horizontal girts or blocking in between. T-111 is just another form of plywood and it tends to warp a little bit over time so it's good to have the edges attached to something all the way around.

 

[HoosierBuddy]

Mine is not a pole barn, but this is what unfinished T1-11 looks like inside my garage. It's held up well since my 2006 build.

 

[u2slow]

I have 5/8" T111 surrounding my carport and part of the house exterior. The extra cost, and hassle of fitting it together neatly, made it unattractive for my shop interior. I used plain 1/2" plywood in there instead.

Any similar wall/ceiling panelling going forward will be metal siding. Then i dont have to spend extra on paint.

 

[wesst]

Here my garage walls with LP smartsiding in primed “t1-11” pattern. I found the material easy to work with in 4’x9’ sheets (7/16”) and very forgiving to my novice woodworking skills.

 

[Lph008]

I've slowly been working on the interior. Just about done with the wall Insulation and the 4" OC gray primed 15/32 T1-11.
I ended up getting the T1-11 on sale. Originally $44/(sheet 4x8) marked down to $30. Need to frame out small bath and then metal liner panel on ceiling with either blown in or batts

 

[oldcarpenter]

Definitely add a flat 2x4 between gifts for the edge joints, that is nailed into the gifts and not just fastened to each sheet only.