Interlocking Garage Tiles

[sandywolf]

Has anyone used Lock-tile brand floor tiles?
I’ve heard great things but want to get some more feedback

 

[Sticks McGee]

I'm also curious.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Check out our www.supratile.com which is a comparable, stronger tile but similar in construction.

 

[pbon]

Would you recommend the supratile over an epoxy coating for a DIY hobbyist working garage with floorplate lift? Unlike most here, I actually work on my cars. Oil or coolant or brake fluid may drip. Tools may get dropped. Though I have a lift, sometimes I use a floor jack. Sometimes I grind or weld. I am not looking for a pretty plastic floor on which I can detail my seldom driven garage queen while I watch TV on my big screen in front of $25,000 worth of fancy cabinets. 20x30 garage with 6 year old concrete floor.

 

[Armorpoxy]

They really are two different products at two different price points. The tiles are roughly 3x the cost of epoxy, but much easier to install and virtually can't fail. Our tiles are super resistant to fluids, oils, etc and are industrial grade.

We suggest dark color like black or dark gray for working right under the cars for heavy usage to avoid stains and marks, which while rare, can occur.

Our Fire House Division www.armor-tuff.com sells and installs these in fire houses that are very hostile environments with vehicles weighing up to 80,000 lbs, lots of heavy equipment, trucks that leak all kinds of fluids, heavy tools, ladders, tanks, water, etc.

The other nice thing about the tiles is that in the unlikely event that you damage one (dropping a trans from a lift may mark or put a cut in one) you just pop it out and replace.

 

[sandywolf]

Where are the armor tiles manufactured? I believe the Locktile is made in USA.
Prefer USA made

 

[Armorpoxy]

Our tiles some are made in USA, others made in UK, None are made i the far East.

 

[Eplebnista]

This is my supratile floor and I am very happy with it. It is not stain-proof, but you have to leave oil or some other fluid on it for an extended period for it to stain to the point you can't remove all evidence of the stain. I've made some real messes under my lift and left them until the next day and then cleaned them right up with a mop and a mild degreasing solution. Darker tiles are a plus if you are concerned.

I would never have found the time to do all the right prep for epoxy and put it down. Prep for these is painless unless you have some big cracks or voids. I put the tile down in a 24 x 26 garage in one day.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Has anyone used Lock-tile brand floor tiles?
I’ve heard great things but want to get some more feedback

Lock-Tile makes great product. They are made in the USA and they are outstanding quality.

 

[blacksporty]

My issue with garage tiles in general, if you do work with fluids in the garage is when they get spilled, leak...whatever is that the fluids end up under the tiles and you have to remove them just to clean up. So you end up having to clean the top, sides and bottom of the all tiles touched and the floor underneath and pulling up just those sections is not easy either.

 

[White Shadow]

My issue with garage tiles in general, if you do work with fluids in the garage is when they get spilled, leak...whatever is that the fluids end up under the tiles and you have to remove them just to clean up. So you end up having to clean the top, sides and bottom of the all tiles touched and the floor underneath and pulling up just those sections is not easy either.

That is definitely a disadvantage. What I've done is lay down some plastic sheeting to prevent the inevitable spill from ever even touching the floor. It might be a bit inconvenient, but it makes cleaning up a five second job. When I had just an epoxy floor, I spent much more time cleaning up spills and mopping, so I'm not going to complain too much about laying down plastic.

 

[zekgb64]

This is my supratile floor and I am very happy with it. It is not stain-proof, but you have to leave oil or some other fluid on it for an extended period for it to stain to the point you can't remove all evidence of the stain. I've made some real messes under my lift and left them until the next day and then cleaned them right up with a mop and a mild degreasing solution. Darker tiles are a plus if you are concerned.

I would never have found the time to do all the right prep for epoxy and put it down. Prep for these is painless unless you have some big cracks or voids. I put the tile down in a 24 x 26 garage in one day.

Shark sighting! Love the floor, considering similar for my 85 928s.

 

[Greenlawnracing]

My issue with garage tiles in general, if you do work with fluids in the garage is when they get spilled, leak...whatever is that the fluids end up under the tiles and you have to remove them just to clean up. So you end up having to clean the top, sides and bottom of the all tiles touched and the floor underneath and pulling up just those sections is not easy either.

I'd like to hear more about this. I'm considering tile vs epoxy due to some poorly repaired cracks, and would hate to deal with this issue.

 

[Eplebnista]

The spill issue depends on the tile. Racedeck and other more rigid tiles will allow liquids to flow right through to the concrete. The supratile I used is a more flexible product and the tiles lock together pretty tightly as shown below. I used a pretty stout dead blow hammer to get my tiles to interlock. The result is that liquids have to work their way through the joints to get to the concrete. I spilled about a gallon of oil on my tiles one night and cleaned it up right away and only a little got through where the corners of the tiles are. To pull up the supratile, I just use my shop vac to **** up a corner and then just pull.

My floor has just been in for a few months but I am happy with it so far.

 

[Garage Flooring]

My issue with garage tiles in general, if you do work with fluids in the garage is when they get spilled, leak...whatever is that the fluids end up under the tiles and you have to remove them just to clean up. So you end up having to clean the top, sides and bottom of the all tiles touched and the floor underneath and pulling up just those sections is not easy either.

That is definitely a disadvantage. What I've done is lay down some plastic sheeting to prevent the inevitable spill from ever even touching the floor. It might be a bit inconvenient, but it makes cleaning up a five second job. When I had just an epoxy floor, I spent much more time cleaning up spills and mopping, so I'm not going to complain too much about laying down plastic.

The spill issue depends on the tile. Racedeck and other more rigid tiles will allow liquids to flow right through to the concrete. The supratile I used is a more flexible product and the tiles lock together pretty tightly as shown below. I used a pretty stout dead blow hammer to get my tiles to interlock. The result is that liquids have to work their way through the joints to get to the concrete. I spilled about a gallon of oil on my tiles one night and cleaned it up right away and only a little got through where the corners of the tiles are. To pull up the supratile, I just use my shop vac to **** up a corner and then just pull.

My floor has just been in for a few months but I am happy with it so far.

This is a great example of why I always answer the question "What is the best garage floor?" With "how do you use your garage?"

PVC tiles in general are much less likely to allow fluids to get through than a hard tile such as TrueLock HD or RaceDeck. They are also more likely to stain from tires. You have to weigh the pros and cons.

FreeFlow and Flow through tiles are typically very easy to keep clean. As pointed out, by themselves though, they offer no protection to the concrete, just allow you to clean them.

Solid hard tiles do let some fluid through. Generally less than people think. Its not an issue at all with water, but if you have oil and brake fluid getting through.... That could create an issue.

It all comes down to application, installation and expectations. If we know how you are using your floor and what you want it to do, we can point you in the right direction.

If you do decide you want PVC tiles, please give me a call. I will send you some full size samples of different brands, including Loc Tile that you can touch, feel and play with to make an educated decision.

 

[Garage Flooring]

I would like to say that as vendors I hope we can resist the urge to 'sell' our products when someone asks for specifics on another product. We should be here to help. Loctile is a darn good tile. I feel it threatens our presence here and our reputation. I am not pointing fingers at anyone. Just saying general. I've done it myself. I've been called on it myself. Its tempting at times. But our first priority has to be the OP and the audience.

I get when someone is looking at making a huge mistake like a cheap coating or something.

 

[Grandpa Menard]

I would like to say that as vendors I hope we can resist the urge to 'sell' our products when someone asks for specifics on another product. We should be here to help. Loctile is a darn good tile. I feel it threatens our presence here and our reputation. I am not pointing fingers at anyone. Just saying general. I've done it myself. I've been called on it myself. Its tempting at times. But our first priority has to be the OP and the audience.

I get when someone is looking at making a huge mistake like a cheap coating or something.

thanks for that. I wish more companies had your view.

 

[GRivera]

Reviving an old thread. Is putting plastic underneath tiles a practical and effective way to protect concrete from spills that will seep through edges? How thick should plastic be?

 

[CJDave]

Would you recommend the supratile over an epoxy coating for a DIY hobbyist working garage with floorplate lift? Unlike most here, I actually work on my cars. Oil or coolant or brake fluid may drip. Tools may get dropped. Though I have a lift, sometimes I use a floor jack. Sometimes I grind or weld. I am not looking for a pretty plastic floor on which I can detail my seldom driven garage queen while I watch TV on my big screen in front of $25,000 worth of fancy cabinets. 20x30 garage with 6 year old concrete floor.

Wow. CJDave.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Reviving an old thread. Is putting plastic underneath tiles a practical and effective way to protect concrete from spills that will seep through edges? How thick should plastic be?

I would say no. I would have concerns about trapping vapor under the plastic

 

[GRivera]

Is there any tile product on the market that will prevent leaks from seeping through?

 

[pbon]

PVC tile is much more waterproof, but also more expensive. Supratile PVC, Tuffseal PVC, Norsk PVC, and Truelock PVC. I have Tuffseal, but think the Supratile “leftover” or clearance tiles are a great value if you don’t mind the visible color jigsaw at the joints when using a checkerboard pattern and if the leftover colors work for you. The availability changes regularly.

 

[CJDave]

Is there any tile product on the market that will prevent leaks from seeping through?

Maybe RaceDeck1 will chime in here. I seem to recall the statement that the solid Race Deck tiles fit together tightly enough that liquids will not seep between the tiles. The slots in the Free Flow tiles allow for drainage and drying but that tile is not the tile that fits every need. CJDave.

 

[jfoster]

Subbbbd

 

[RaceDeck1]

Maybe RaceDeck1 will chime in here. I seem to recall the statement that the solid Race Deck tiles fit together tightly enough that liquids will not seep between the tiles. The slots in the Free Flow tiles allow for drainage and drying but that tile is not the tile that fits every need. CJDave.

Yes, the engineered gap ( seams) allows for many things that we feel are essential in a garage environment. The seams of racedeck create hydro-static tension so liquids do not just flow through, but all for air / moisture to escape the under side..Very Important... you do not want to create a moisture barrier trap in your garage, concrete can act like a sponge and release moisture, climate swings, rain, snow etc create moisture. RaceDeck is also a full-suspension flooring system that is channeled in the understructure to allow air, moisture and liquids to flow freely to drains and/or out the door, helping eliminate mold and mildew issues common in the garage ( ex: have you ever seen a large rubber mat/pad that has not moved in a garage for a while, then lift to see the moisture/moldy area... a garage floor needs to breath .
Sometimes even the best prepped floors that are coated will blister and peel becasue of vapor barrier issue in the concrete and the moisture has to escape.

 

[Garage Flooring]

Has anyone used Lock-tile brand floor tiles?
I’ve heard great things but want to get some more feedback

Lock tile is a great brand of tile. They make a quality American Made tile. Sometimes a little slow to ship. I have some more information but not something I would share publically. Always conversations that must be had about PVC.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Agree with GF, let the floor breath, as hydrostatic vapor pressure/moisture will work it's way out. Plastic will trap it and make it worse.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Our Supratile tiles are extremely water resistant (nothing is waterproof).

If you take a two Supratiles and connect them, and put a piece of paper towel under the joint and pour water on the joint, the paper will remain dry, even for a few days and the water would evaporate.

 

[nealric]

I have garagetrac tiles in my garage (budget competitor to racedeck). There is enough gap between tiles that liquids would almost certainly seep through before it could be cleaned up. The upside is that this also means it's relatively easy to pull up a tile of necessary.

While I'm still setting up the garage and haven't done serious work in it yet, the plan is to use an absorbent pad if I'm doing any work with fluids (oil/brake fluid changes, coolant drain, etc.). Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07899SN62/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[kram71]

I have garagetrac tiles in my garage (budget competitor to racedeck). There is enough gap between tiles that liquids would almost certainly seep through before it could be cleaned up. The upside is that this also means it's relatively easy to pull up a tile of necessary.

While I'm still setting up the garage and haven't done serious work in it yet, the plan is to use an absorbent pad if I'm doing any work with fluids (oil/brake fluid changes, coolant drain, etc.). Something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07899SN62/?tag=atomicindus08-20

How long have you had your garagetrac? How have you enjoyed it? Pro's? Cons?

 

[nealric]

How long have you had your garagetrac? How have you enjoyed it? Pro's? Cons?

I installed it about three months ago. The floor was the first thing I did on the garage (which I am just now completing the build out on), so I can't comment on durability yet, but so far I like it.

Installation was pretty smooth. Everything snapped together without much fuss. I understand they are physically interchangeable with racedeck, though I have not tried it. It took as almost long to cut the edge tiles as the entire rest of the floor. They do sell edge tiles, but not in various widths, so you will end up having to cut tiles if you want it to be wall-to-wall. A sliding miter saw with a fine blade would make things easier. Count on an afternoon for the install for a 2 car garage, and perhaps a full day if you are doing a lot of cutting and finishing.

Vs racedeck: I would expect racedeck is built to slightly tighter tolerances and will have a slightly better look. On the garagetrack, you can see the bracing under the surface if you are looking for it, while it's totally invisible on the race deck. But functionally, it appears identical and it overall looks great. I saved about $600 vs racedeck, and haven't regretted it. The cost difference is less if you are doing freeflow racedeck, but I decided I wanted a solid surface.

vs epoxy: My garage has 50 year old floors with oil stains, cracks, and all sorts of blemishes that would have made it an absolute bear to properly prep for epoxy. I also like the idea that I can swap tiles individually if there is damage to one spot. It's also harder for things to go wrong- you can't really screw up the entire install. The only thing I don't like is that my jack stands need something underneath to avoid denting the tiles. I plan on eventually installing a 4-post lift, but it's a bit annoying to have to keep plywood around when using jack stands.

 

[kram71]

I installed it about three months ago. The floor was the first thing I did on the garage (which I am just now completing the build out on), so I can't comment on durability yet, but so far I like it.

Installation was pretty smooth. Everything snapped together without much fuss. I understand they are physically interchangeable with racedeck, though I have not tried it. It took as almost long to cut the edge tiles as the entire rest of the floor. They do sell edge tiles, but not in various widths, so you will end up having to cut tiles if you want it to be wall-to-wall. A sliding miter saw with a fine blade would make things easier. Count on an afternoon for the install for a 2 car garage, and perhaps a full day if you are doing a lot of cutting and finishing.

Vs racedeck: I would expect racedeck is built to slightly tighter tolerances and will have a slightly better look. On the garagetrack, you can see the bracing under the surface if you are looking for it, while it's totally invisible on the race deck. But functionally, it appears identical and it overall looks great. I saved about $600 vs racedeck, and haven't regretted it. The cost difference is less if you are doing freeflow racedeck, but I decided I wanted a solid surface.

vs epoxy: My garage has 50 year old floors with oil stains, cracks, and all sorts of blemishes that would have made it an absolute bear to properly prep for epoxy. I also like the idea that I can swap tiles individually if there is damage to one spot. It's also harder for things to go wrong- you can't really screw up the entire install. The only thing I don't like is that my jack stands need something underneath to avoid denting the tiles. I plan on eventually installing a 4-post lift, but it's a bit annoying to have to keep plywood around when using jack stands.

Thanks for the review. I had Racedeck, Truelock and Garagetech sent but I have had a hard time noticing differences between them. I'm not 100% sure which is the Garageteck since it did not have a label. I do know the Racetdeck and Truelock though.

I will go with solid as well. I'm not worried about jackstands or jacks. I dont mind keeping a small piece of wood handy.

Did you lay any underlayment down? Any pics?

 

[nealric]

This is my install (I will be installing a rubber transition strip by the doors soon). The rest of the garage has come a long way since the photo was taken, but this is the only snapshot I have showing the full floor. I used lanscaping cloth as an underlayer to prevent noise, and it seems to have done the trick.

 

[kram71]

Picture is not showing for me?

 

[nealric]

Picture is not showing for me?

Hmm. Showing for me

Does this work?

Also try this: https://photos.app.goo.gl/xA6AVxJwatgdhEn97

 

[kram71]

Yes the link worked.

 

[canuck coupe]

Reviving the thread again. It's now more than 2 1/2 years old!

At almost 40 years of age, the concrete floor in my garage is in need or resurfacing. No major cracks or heaving, just badly spalled. My garage is a busy place. It mostly doesn't get used for parking. It's a workshop. Mostly I work on cars.

I'm leaning towards Supratile. One concern: can I roll a shop crane with 650 pounds of engine/****** on this kind of floor? Or is it too soft? The crane and engine stand and floor jacks all roll on smallish steel wheels. They don't roll particularly well on concrete. Will they roll on flexible PVC?

Thanks!
Philip

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
We have sold Supratile and thousands of commercial auto shops over the years, many of them with shop and engine hoists. We would though recommend if the lift is going to have a load on it and it will be stationary for a long time it wouldn't be a bad idea to put a piece of steel under the wheels to avoid any temporary indentations into the tiles. These indentations normally pop out themselves from their memory, but just as a precaution it wouldn't be a bad idea.

You can contact us for a free sample to put under your lift to make sure it's satisfactory for you.

 

[meach61]

Hello,
I am new to the forum and found this thread very informative! I am moving to a new/old home in Minnesota that the garage floor is not in great shape. Salt had caused the surface to shail but no aggregate exposed. I have two quotes for epoxy but time frame to get the floor done is lengthy! So I am considering tile.
The additional questions I have that I don't see covered are. I would lean towards the Supertile style.
1. How does the tile hold up to MN changes in temp? Heaving and issue?
2. Does the floor need to be sealed first?
Thanks
Meach

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi
Supratile has been sold for use by he military in Alaska with no issues. Sealing is not needed.

Depending on sun exposure you may need to use the adhesive on the first 2-4 rows of tiles,but live with it first as easy to pull up and add if needed.