To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Intermatic AG3000 install, no side knockouts left

tmshort

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
396
Location
Central IN
Both side knockouts on my mini split disconnect are full; what other options do I have for install of the surge device?

The instructions specify that outdoor installations should be “mounted horizontally into a suitable enclosure”. Sounds like I should not use one of the 2 knockouts on the bottom.

Appreciate any ideas.

Thanks
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
T

tmshort

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
396
Location
Central IN
I don't think I have room for another hole, I thought about that.
This is for mounting on the outdoor disconnect right by the unit. I installed one on the other unit earlier, no problem. Just don't have a horizontal spot for this one...
 

BrandonV

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2023
Messages
4,030
Location
Arizona
Those tend to accumulate water if they're mounted vertically. Any chance you can mount it to the structure & just use a short piece of conduit back to the disconnect?
 
OP
T

tmshort

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 10, 2012
Messages
396
Location
Central IN
Those tend to accumulate water if they're mounted vertically. Any chance you can mount it to the structure & just use a short piece of conduit back to the disconnect?
Might be a possibility. I thought about that or another box, but according to the manual I need to minimize wire length as much as possible. May not have much choice.

I was definitely concerned about collecting water...
 

BrandonV

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 9, 2023
Messages
4,030
Location
Arizona
Might be a possibility. I thought about that or another box, but according to the manual I need to minimize wire length as much as possible. May not have much choice.

I was definitely concerned about collecting water...

The wire length becomes a problem because people do this. This is from Schenider Electric.

1722543968808.png
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

sparky 1971

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
8,095
Location
Central Iowa
Without seeing it, I am going to take a guess. Why not move the whip for the condenser to a bottom knockout which should free up a side ko?

This is based on the ASSUMEtion that the power is going in on one side and out the other. I can't think of any other reason for both side ko's to be used.
 

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,684
Location
VT
Without seeing it, I am going to take a guess. Why not move the whip for the condenser to a bottom knockout which should free up a side ko?

This is based on the ASSUMEtion that the power is going in on one side and out the other. I can't think of any other reason for both side ko's to be used.
IIRC OP used the disconnect as a junction and fed a 2nd disconnect/AC.
 

sparky 1971

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 9, 2018
Messages
8,095
Location
Central Iowa
IIRC OP used the disconnect as a junction and fed a 2nd disconnect/AC.
Well that's gonna make it a ****** to free up a knockout. Hindsight is always 20/20, should have hit a J-box first. I just happen to have two 30X30X12 3R junction boxes that I ordered in for a job and changed my mind on what I am going to do so I'd be willing to part with one for my cost which is around $700 each....
 

PCustoms

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 23, 2011
Messages
23,684
Location
VT
Well that's gonna make it a ****** to free up a knockout. Hindsight is always 20/20, should have hit a J-box first.

From his other thread:

1722720614143.png


I just happen to have two 30X30X12 3R junction boxes that I ordered in for a job and changed my mind on what I am going to do so I'd be willing to part with one for my cost which is around $700 each....

Yikes, that's steep to have kicking around the shop
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom