Internal pvc conduit cutter small enough for 3/4" conduit?

[Innovate1]

Needing to replace an LB (bottom broke due to lack of expansion joint to buried conduit installed before I knew better...) and don't have good access so figure an internal cutter is the way to go. But it's 3/4" and thinking it may be too small for most of the cutters I see. This one from Menards doesn't list the OD of the blade anywhere that I can see. Might have to use a much smaller dremel bit but that won't reach far enough down into the fitting. Do they make these small enough for 3/4" conduit?

If you are thinking I should be able to get to the inside section and will have to when replacing it anyway here's the deal. It's low voltage and just extends through the rim joist and a very close other joist with no access between. I put a sleeve on the inner end to keep it tight against the siding. It's got a fitting on both ends and no access to the middle. Seemed like a good idea at the time but makes replacement difficult.

 

[Higgins]

how far do you have to reach down inside the fitting?

I currently have the same issue. im going to slide a coiled spring down aprox 6 inches. I'll use a 3/8 spring and slide it down over the wires
i will then use a plumbers wire saw to wrap it around the pvc and gently saw the wire back and forth until cut through,

AL

 

[mm08822]

Have a pic of the break?

Are you willing to pull the wires out of the damaged side of the conduit run?

 

[Innovate1]

how far do you have to reach down inside the fitting?

I currently have the same issue. im going to slide a coiled spring down aprox 6 inches. I'll use a 3/8 spring and slide it down over the wires
i will then use a plumbers wire saw to wrap it around the pvc and gently saw the wire back and forth until cut through,

AL

The depth of the LB is about (guessing) 1" or a bit more. The socket adds about 3/4" more. So I need at least 2" beyond the chuck. The linked tool is probably plenty long but if it is too big a dremel bit is likely too short - although the dremel nose may fit into the LB some.

I had several conduits next to each other but only one had broken. So I carefully cut the others with a string being careful to get the cut fairly even all the way around so when it separated it wouldn't crack in unexpected ways. Didn't have any issues.

 

[Higgins]

The depth of the LB is about (guessing) 1" or a bit more. The socket adds about 3/4" more. So I need at least 2" beyond the chuck. The linked tool is probably plenty long but if it is too big a dremel bit is likely too short - although the dremel nose may fit into the LB some.

I had several conduits next to each other but only one had broken. So I carefully cut the others with a string being careful to get the cut fairly even all the way around so when it separated it wouldn't crack in unexpected ways. Didn't have any issues.

AceCamp Pocket Wire Saw
Part Number: 3772595

 

[Innovate1]

Have a pic of the break?

Are you willing to pull the wires out of the damaged side of the conduit run?

I can pull the wires out. Not planning to remove them from the underground run but I can pull them out from where they go into the building. They are spliced right inside (open splice, no box). BTW, it took 20 years for this to break...

 

[Innovate1]

Looks like I didn't add the link to the tool to the OP. Here ya go.
https://www.menards.com/main/plumbi...pipe-cutter/ps-100/p-1444440440991-c-8610.htm

 

[mm08822]

I'm confused. If the LB is broken at the bottom, cut out the mid-section of it so first you can get access to the ground conduit for cleanup.
What ever LB remnants remain on the ground conduit, pry off maybe with some heat assist or cut vertical slits to remove smaller sections.
Clean up the conduit with sandpaper so the new LB can fit.

The horizontal remnant of the LB could be more difficult depending on whether the conduit inside can be made free to move.

If free to move pull it out of the hole from inside and slice off the socket remnants. Maybe with heat and channellocks. Otherwise go at it from the outside with a small hacksaw blade or jigsaw blade and needle nose.

ETA: A multi-vibe tool with flat blade can help in some of the accessible areas.

 

[Innovate1]

I'm confused. If the LB is broken at the bottom, cut out the mid-section of it so first you can get access to the ground conduit for cleanup.
What ever LB remnants remain on the ground conduit, pry off maybe with some heat assist or cut vertical slits to remove smaller sections.
Clean up the conduit with sandpaper so the new LB can fit.

The horizontal remnant of the LB could be more difficult depending on whether the conduit inside can be made free to move.

If free to move pull it out of the hole from inside and slice off the socket remnants. Maybe with heat and channellocks. Otherwise go at it from the outside with a small hacksaw blade or jigsaw blade and needle nose.

ETA: A multi-vibe tool with flat blade can help in some of the accessible areas.

I tried to explain the access issue in the last part of my original post. No access to the side of the short piece of conduit into the house and there is a coupling on the inside end (bigger than the hole). A small internal cutter seems like the best if they are small enough for 3/4"- which is my question. I could maybe get a oscillating tool in to cut off the internal coupling on the end but it's a tight space. Here's a crude sketch.

No issue with the vertical section. It's too short to just clean up and put another LB on it. I will cut it lower and add an expansion joint.

 

[BillK]

If the LB is broken and you are going to replace it how about take the cover off and just break it or cut it off flush and push what is left into the house ? I bet it is brittle enough you could probably chisel what is left out.

 

[mm08822]

Stick a ~1-3/8" hole saw in the couple (after pulling out wires and just make the hole bigger. Then coupling, ****** and lb remains just fall out.

And this time maybe add a box inside for the splices?

 

[Innovate1]

Stick a ~1-3/8" hole saw in the couple (after pulling out wires and just make the hole bigger. Then coupling, ****** and lb remains just fall out.

And this time maybe add a box inside for the splices?

That might work but hard to get a hole saw in there with the other stuff around.

Why add a box? It's just low voltage stuff. The splices are inside (dry) and connected wires just go across the basement ceiling without conduit.

 

[toplessHO]

you can make that rotary saw longer by adding a screwdriver bit extension

 

[BurtEggley]

I had something similar lately when re-siding the shed. The PVC ****** broke off after near 30 years. I used a cable saw to cut thru the pipe a ways down, added a new fitting and some waterproof flex conduit up to a new LB.

 

[PCustoms]

I had something similar lately when re-siding the shed. The PVC ****** broke off after near 30 years. I used a cable saw to cut thru the pipe a ways down, added a new fitting and some waterproof flex conduit up to a new LB.

Is that white PVC?

 

[BurtEggley]

no - gray that has sun bleached. HD locally was out of gray glue also so used what PVC glue I had - Christys. I'll clean it up when I have time.

 

[fitter30]

1/4" long bolt, washer with angle grinder cut some grooves in the circumference, soft soldier washer to the head side put in a drill. Like a cut off wheel.

 

[Innovate1]

1/4" long bolt, washer with angle grinder cut some grooves in the circumference, soft soldier washer to the head side put in a drill. Like a cut off wheel.

That's easy and would work. I looked at socket saver tools that are made to ream out a fitting and they have very poor, dull edge. Looks like just some slots stamped into the edge of a washer with a little "dish" to the washer to make it a bit cone shaped. They are too big for this but easy to make something similar like you suggested.